Neutral Safety Switch
11-09-2007, 08:52 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Neutral Safety Switch
My 86 300E neutral switch is going bad. It has a 4 pin connector. Which ones do I need to jumper in order to get it to start? How much trouble is it to change? Anyone have a good one for sale?
Thanks fellows, Perri
Thanks fellows, Perri
11-09-2007, 11:42 AM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 3,094
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is a German Tank
I would suggest buying new.
you do realize that this is a TIGHT job correct? you will need either little girl hands or very small tools.
It is also suggested that while your at it, you may want to pick up new shifter bushings since you will be disconnecting the transmition connecting rod and will have an open chance to get at the bushings.
EDIT: I can't spell for crap
Last edited by shadowgriffen; 11-09-2007 at 11:49 AM.
11-09-2007, 01:08 PM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 3,094
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is a German Tank
On 7/09/07 the following took place -
So...
then...
the n we got this...
Here's Henry again...
SO...
and...
and finally...
Some kind of wormhole??
This problem has just started several days ago. Turn the key and everything comes on but the starter doesn't turn. Then after a while of trying, it works. Here's what I've done:
Took out the OVR and cleaned the fuse and pin connectors.
Jacked it up and tapped the starter while the wife turns the key.
Charged the battery up, my battery is fine, 13+ volts.
Checked all the fuses...3-4 times.
Checked the wires going to the starter..OK.
Wiggled the shift level and climbed under and checked the neutral switch, will not start in neutral or park.
Sprayed the ignition switch with CRC.
If I push it out of the way so that the wife can get her Cadillac out, it may or may not start right up. It's doing it more often now.
I'm thinking it's probably the ignition switch, but usually when that's the problem, you can giggle the switch and get it to go...but not in this case.
Fuel pump is running.
This sounds like the problem triggerman had recently, but I wonder if he moved the shift lever while trying to crank it? I move mine but it doesn't crank. I may by-pass the neutral safety switch if I get no other suggestions.
Shadowgriffen, OVR? Probably not this time, but what?
Thanks everyone, Perri
Took out the OVR and cleaned the fuse and pin connectors.
Jacked it up and tapped the starter while the wife turns the key.
Charged the battery up, my battery is fine, 13+ volts.
Checked all the fuses...3-4 times.
Checked the wires going to the starter..OK.
Wiggled the shift level and climbed under and checked the neutral switch, will not start in neutral or park.
Sprayed the ignition switch with CRC.
If I push it out of the way so that the wife can get her Cadillac out, it may or may not start right up. It's doing it more often now.
I'm thinking it's probably the ignition switch, but usually when that's the problem, you can giggle the switch and get it to go...but not in this case.
Fuel pump is running.
This sounds like the problem triggerman had recently, but I wonder if he moved the shift lever while trying to crank it? I move mine but it doesn't crank. I may by-pass the neutral safety switch if I get no other suggestions.
Shadowgriffen, OVR? Probably not this time, but what?
Thanks everyone, Perri
I suspect the ignition switch, however you can usually giggle and/or play around with a bad switch and get contact....not my case.
If it is the starter, I would tend to believe it is the starter solenoid. I tapped the starter with a hammer while the wife turned the key with no luck.
**One has to be careful not to hit the starter too hard or damage to the magnets will occur**
Wait a few minutes, get in and it starts right up.
I'm stumped!
If it is the starter, I would tend to believe it is the starter solenoid. I tapped the starter with a hammer while the wife turned the key with no luck.
**One has to be careful not to hit the starter too hard or damage to the magnets will occur**
Wait a few minutes, get in and it starts right up.
I'm stumped!
SO...
Yea, I guess I'd better share my findings. I didn't post it immediately to demonstrate the importance of coming back and letting others know the fix.
The problem is the NEAUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH. Weird thing though, I could move the shift lever while trying to start it, without success. I suppose if the NSS is out of adjustment, neutral isn't really neutral...park isn't park. Sometimes it would start in park, sometimes not. The lever can't go far enough forward in "park" to activate the switch. In neutral, the lever can be moved slightly toward reverse.....and there it will start. I'll adjust it this weekend. What's involved with that?
Anyways, thanks to everyone for all the suggestions, and let's keep sharing what we find.
Perri
The problem is the NEAUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH. Weird thing though, I could move the shift lever while trying to start it, without success. I suppose if the NSS is out of adjustment, neutral isn't really neutral...park isn't park. Sometimes it would start in park, sometimes not. The lever can't go far enough forward in "park" to activate the switch. In neutral, the lever can be moved slightly toward reverse.....and there it will start. I'll adjust it this weekend. What's involved with that?
Anyways, thanks to everyone for all the suggestions, and let's keep sharing what we find.
Perri
Ask a question and you'll get plenty of answers...sometimes even with the appropriate solution 
Great that you saved some money...
Troubleshooting electrical is basic logic, isolate until you find the fault !!!
Don't forget to clean up all your grounds as they are usually the source of "gremlins" in a W124 !
For the neutral/reverse safety switch check that your shifter linkage bushings are intact as this can cause the problem you are having.
Adjustment can be made in the shifter linkage in relation to the switch.
You should have a peg on the switch that corresponds with a hole in the selector lever/linkage. Make sure you're in neutral.
Remove the selector lever. Loosen the switch and use about a 5/32 drill bit to align the selector lever and switch peg with the locating hole in the switch casing. Tighten the switch and reinstall the lever/linkage.
Great that you saved some money...
Troubleshooting electrical is basic logic, isolate until you find the fault !!!
Don't forget to clean up all your grounds as they are usually the source of "gremlins" in a W124 !
For the neutral/reverse safety switch check that your shifter linkage bushings are intact as this can cause the problem you are having.
Adjustment can be made in the shifter linkage in relation to the switch.
You should have a peg on the switch that corresponds with a hole in the selector lever/linkage. Make sure you're in neutral.
Remove the selector lever. Loosen the switch and use about a 5/32 drill bit to align the selector lever and switch peg with the locating hole in the switch casing. Tighten the switch and reinstall the lever/linkage.
Some kind of wormhole??
11-09-2007, 01:47 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Shadowgriffen, I was able to get it to started over the past few months by wiggling the shift lever while turning the key. It would only start in the neutral area though.
It didn't bother me that much since I have several other cars to drive. But I let my son use it for a week or so and he had problems getting it started. I showed him the wiggle method and that worked till he went back north. I wanted to drive it Wed. and it wouldn't start using the wiggle method, it was cold that day too.
So I jack it up and climb under to check the wiring going to it. I unplugged it and found that the connector has 4 pins. I also noticed that I could rotate the white plastic piece under the black switch and could turn it about 1/8 turn either direction.
So, no I didn't ever fix the problem, I just lived with it. Now I need to go ahead and fix it, since it won't start the way it is.
Is there a snap ring holding the switch in?
Will fluid come out if I remove it?
Does the white plastic thing attach to the shift rod/lever somehow?
Which pins, of the four, should get jumped?
Glad you remembered my problem Shadowgriffen, thanks.
It didn't bother me that much since I have several other cars to drive. But I let my son use it for a week or so and he had problems getting it started. I showed him the wiggle method and that worked till he went back north. I wanted to drive it Wed. and it wouldn't start using the wiggle method, it was cold that day too.
So I jack it up and climb under to check the wiring going to it. I unplugged it and found that the connector has 4 pins. I also noticed that I could rotate the white plastic piece under the black switch and could turn it about 1/8 turn either direction.
So, no I didn't ever fix the problem, I just lived with it. Now I need to go ahead and fix it, since it won't start the way it is.
Is there a snap ring holding the switch in?
Will fluid come out if I remove it?
Does the white plastic thing attach to the shift rod/lever somehow?
Which pins, of the four, should get jumped?
Glad you remembered my problem Shadowgriffen, thanks.
11-10-2007, 11:42 AM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
OK, I jacked her up and climbed under there this morning. I pulled the 4 pin connector from the drivers side of the transmission. I jumped the 2 front pin terminals of the connector plug and now it starts, in any gear position of course.
I also took a look at that white plastic part under the black neutral switch. It appears as though that should in some way connect to the shift linkage because it rotates. Otherwise, the switch must be activated inside the transmission.
Either way, I'm going to change the switch and was wondering if that white plastic part came with the switch? The bushings on the shift rod look fine and tight.
I called Autozone and they do not stock the switch. Anyone have the MB part number and/or the price of the switch? (1986 300E)
How's that for a come back to ya Shadow? How long will you take?
I also took a look at that white plastic part under the black neutral switch. It appears as though that should in some way connect to the shift linkage because it rotates. Otherwise, the switch must be activated inside the transmission.
Either way, I'm going to change the switch and was wondering if that white plastic part came with the switch? The bushings on the shift rod look fine and tight.
I called Autozone and they do not stock the switch. Anyone have the MB part number and/or the price of the switch? (1986 300E)
How's that for a come back to ya Shadow? How long will you take?
Trending Topics
11-12-2007, 01:37 PM
#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 3,094
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is a German Tank
11-12-2007, 05:10 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, I wonder if when I pull this neutral switch out, it could be repaired. I'm tight man. Don't feel like paying more for the (friggin) switch than I did for the car. I'm being serious now!
I'd also like to know the purpose of the (friggin) white plastic part under the switch. It may have to do with the connector plug, ie. clip.
Thanks, Perri
I'd also like to know the purpose of the (friggin) white plastic part under the switch. It may have to do with the connector plug, ie. clip.
Thanks, Perri
11-13-2007, 09:32 AM
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 3,094
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is a German Tank
11-13-2007, 03:12 PM
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yes, that's the white plastic part. What does it do? Perhaps it locks the connector plug to the switch itself?
That switch does not look exactly like mine, I'm going from memory now. I don't recall the lever to the right. My lever is made into the transmission...I think. I recall my switch as being about the size of the red outlined area in your pic. My lever is seperate from the switch part, and looks to be metal.
Is that suppose to be the switch for an 86 300E?
Is that the part number for an 86 300E?
Does that part number represent that switch in the picture?
Thanks for all you help, Perri
That switch does not look exactly like mine, I'm going from memory now. I don't recall the lever to the right. My lever is made into the transmission...I think. I recall my switch as being about the size of the red outlined area in your pic. My lever is seperate from the switch part, and looks to be metal.
Is that suppose to be the switch for an 86 300E?
Is that the part number for an 86 300E?
Does that part number represent that switch in the picture?
Thanks for all you help, Perri
11-14-2007, 12:54 PM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Shadow, I just bought one from ebay. I'm planning on changing the filter and fluid along with the switch. Fluid would probably pour out once the switch is removed.
I'm planning on using DexronIII if that's ok.
Anyone know the capacity?
I'm planning on using DexronIII if that's ok.
Anyone know the capacity?
12-06-2007, 02:02 PM
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
UPDATE: I changed the neutral safety switch, fluid, and filter 2 weeks ago. This thing shifts great now....like butter. Before, the engine would rev up going from first to second if I was getting down on it. Now it goes right into second like it should.
The old neutral safety switch had come loose from that plastic linkage arm in the above picture. The picture "is" the same as mine. I used Dextron III. The filter I paid $26 for. The switch was $25 ebay.
It used to drip about 3-4 drops of trans fluid overnight. It doesn't leak a drop now. I always thought it was leaking around the pan gasket.
Guys, go and service your transmission, your car will love you and reward you for it.
Thanks Shadow, I should have updated sooner.
The old neutral safety switch had come loose from that plastic linkage arm in the above picture. The picture "is" the same as mine. I used Dextron III. The filter I paid $26 for. The switch was $25 ebay.
It used to drip about 3-4 drops of trans fluid overnight. It doesn't leak a drop now. I always thought it was leaking around the pan gasket.
Guys, go and service your transmission, your car will love you and reward you for it.
Thanks Shadow, I should have updated sooner.
12-12-2007, 01:08 PM
#18
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1995 Mercedes c36 amg
My car will not start in park, just in neutral!!
I have a 1995 c36 amg, sometimes it will start in P, but most of the time just in N, Does anyone have any suggestions of what could be wrong????
12-12-2007, 02:08 PM
#19
02-05-2010, 10:19 AM
#20
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2004 C240 Wagon Non-4-matic
ovp, nss, and fuel pump relay
yeah I put off this repair for too long by starting the car in neutral ... good interim solution, til it left my wife stranded : ( . I believe that by starting in neutral too much I killed the OVP (also a repair postponed) which finally killed the car on the road. I also replaced the fuel pump relay. Goes to show you that one thing leads to another.... a snowball turns into an avalanche. Anyway, replaced all and she's back on the road. A word of warning to the wise.
