Key tumbler
12-02-2008, 07:54 PM
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CL500 216
You have to do it with the key turned to key1 or the steering lock will fire,,send me a PM with your Email address and I will send you a paper on how to do it
12-02-2008, 09:15 PM
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1987 300E
can you send a copy to spmbass@aol.com i need to put my old one back in i cant get a key for my new one with out the vin
12-03-2008, 01:15 AM
#5
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You need
the tumbler picks and the diy is on mercedesshop.com use their search function.Most every year and model is covered.do not force anything
12-03-2008, 04:22 AM
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CL500 216
can you send a copy to spmbass@aol.com i need to put my old one back in i cant get a key for my new one with out the vin
MB dealers have special barrel to loan out while the new one is on order
Paper sent via Email
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12-05-2008, 07:20 PM
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1992 300E
So, the locksmiths in town won't even touch it.
Local euro garage quoted us $500 for the complete service, which includes new steering lock cylinder, key tumbler, and keys.
It feels like the key goes in fine, but the steering lock won't disengage
Local euro garage quoted us $500 for the complete service, which includes new steering lock cylinder, key tumbler, and keys.
It feels like the key goes in fine, but the steering lock won't disengage
12-06-2008, 02:10 PM
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1994 E320 Dragon Wagon
You can buy a new key/lock set for around $60. They ship with two keys. A factory matched key set (shipped from Germany) was too spendy for me. I used a second key ring on my main key ring so the ignition key drops lowest for easy ID.
I tried a method where after inserting the key you press a vibrating sander on the back of the key while, with a 6" crescent wrench, you apply slight rotation. I gave the thing a shot of WD-40 first but not sure it helps. The sander dances the tumbler pins like crazy, as you roll rotation on and off the core releases and moves to Pos 1. Took about 10 minutes of "sanding".
Don't try moving it back, immediately pull the core. Getting the key back out can be done later using the same method in a vise.
I tried a method where after inserting the key you press a vibrating sander on the back of the key while, with a 6" crescent wrench, you apply slight rotation. I gave the thing a shot of WD-40 first but not sure it helps. The sander dances the tumbler pins like crazy, as you roll rotation on and off the core releases and moves to Pos 1. Took about 10 minutes of "sanding".
Don't try moving it back, immediately pull the core. Getting the key back out can be done later using the same method in a vise.
12-06-2008, 05:49 PM
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1992 300E
You can buy a new key/lock set for around $60. They ship with two keys. A factory matched key set (shipped from Germany) was too spendy for me. I used a second key ring on my main key ring so the ignition key drops lowest for easy ID.
I tried a method where after inserting the key you press a vibrating sander on the back of the key while, with a 6" crescent wrench, you apply slight rotation. I gave the thing a shot of WD-40 first but not sure it helps. The sander dances the tumbler pins like crazy, as you roll rotation on and off the core releases and moves to Pos 1. Took about 10 minutes of "sanding".
Don't try moving it back, immediately pull the core. Getting the key back out can be done later using the same method in a vise.
I tried a method where after inserting the key you press a vibrating sander on the back of the key while, with a 6" crescent wrench, you apply slight rotation. I gave the thing a shot of WD-40 first but not sure it helps. The sander dances the tumbler pins like crazy, as you roll rotation on and off the core releases and moves to Pos 1. Took about 10 minutes of "sanding".
Don't try moving it back, immediately pull the core. Getting the key back out can be done later using the same method in a vise.
12-07-2008, 02:35 PM
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1994 E320 Dragon Wagon
You take a basic orbital or vertical 110V, home, hand sander and remove the sand paper. Any cheap (under $30) finish sander will work. Try all keys you have, starting with the least worn.
Get a grip on the key, close to the switch using a small crescent wrench or needle nose pliers with one hand. While pressing the sander's foam backing plate against the back of the key in your other hand, gently rock and rotate the key direction toward position 1.
The wrench or pliers are not for leverage, it's to control the key underneath the sander that blocks your view. Vibrations are transmitted through the key and cause the inner lock pins to jump around randomly. After some "buzzing" the lock will release and rotate. An assistant may have to rock the steering wheel back and fourth as your wheel is also locked. You can try doing this without the sander by aggressively jacking the key around while rotating. Remember to move the wheel back and forth while wiggling the key. WD-40 shot into the lock is to flush out old grease and dirt.
Once it rolls to pos. 1 - STOP. I tried the full key range to see if it released and it stuck again. Once the lock is out, pull your neg. battery cable if worried about batt. drain. You need to recover the outer ring which won't come off with the key inserted. You can place the lock assembly in a vise and repeat the procedure or cut the key off.
Get a grip on the key, close to the switch using a small crescent wrench or needle nose pliers with one hand. While pressing the sander's foam backing plate against the back of the key in your other hand, gently rock and rotate the key direction toward position 1.
The wrench or pliers are not for leverage, it's to control the key underneath the sander that blocks your view. Vibrations are transmitted through the key and cause the inner lock pins to jump around randomly. After some "buzzing" the lock will release and rotate. An assistant may have to rock the steering wheel back and fourth as your wheel is also locked. You can try doing this without the sander by aggressively jacking the key around while rotating. Remember to move the wheel back and forth while wiggling the key. WD-40 shot into the lock is to flush out old grease and dirt.
Once it rolls to pos. 1 - STOP. I tried the full key range to see if it released and it stuck again. Once the lock is out, pull your neg. battery cable if worried about batt. drain. You need to recover the outer ring which won't come off with the key inserted. You can place the lock assembly in a vise and repeat the procedure or cut the key off.
Last edited by White_Knuckles; 12-07-2008 at 03:02 PM.
12-07-2008, 07:33 PM
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CL500 216
The last guy that I helped it took him 3 weeks trying every day, then it turned.
The vibration idea is good
squirt some silicon or PTFE (better) into the lock and onto the key
The vibration idea is good
squirt some silicon or PTFE (better) into the lock and onto the key
12-08-2008, 12:13 AM
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1992 300E
You take a basic orbital or vertical 110V, home, hand sander and remove the sand paper. Any cheap (under $30) finish sander will work. Try all keys you have, starting with the least worn.
Get a grip on the key, close to the switch using a small crescent wrench or needle nose pliers with one hand. While pressing the sander's foam backing plate against the back of the key in your other hand, gently rock and rotate the key direction toward position 1.
The wrench or pliers are not for leverage, it's to control the key underneath the sander that blocks your view. Vibrations are transmitted through the key and cause the inner lock pins to jump around randomly. After some "buzzing" the lock will release and rotate. An assistant may have to rock the steering wheel back and fourth as your wheel is also locked. You can try doing this without the sander by aggressively jacking the key around while rotating. Remember to move the wheel back and forth while wiggling the key. WD-40 shot into the lock is to flush out old grease and dirt.
Once it rolls to pos. 1 - STOP. I tried the full key range to see if it released and it stuck again. Once the lock is out, pull your neg. battery cable if worried about batt. drain. You need to recover the outer ring which won't come off with the key inserted. You can place the lock assembly in a vise and repeat the procedure or cut the key off.
Get a grip on the key, close to the switch using a small crescent wrench or needle nose pliers with one hand. While pressing the sander's foam backing plate against the back of the key in your other hand, gently rock and rotate the key direction toward position 1.
The wrench or pliers are not for leverage, it's to control the key underneath the sander that blocks your view. Vibrations are transmitted through the key and cause the inner lock pins to jump around randomly. After some "buzzing" the lock will release and rotate. An assistant may have to rock the steering wheel back and fourth as your wheel is also locked. You can try doing this without the sander by aggressively jacking the key around while rotating. Remember to move the wheel back and forth while wiggling the key. WD-40 shot into the lock is to flush out old grease and dirt.
Once it rolls to pos. 1 - STOP. I tried the full key range to see if it released and it stuck again. Once the lock is out, pull your neg. battery cable if worried about batt. drain. You need to recover the outer ring which won't come off with the key inserted. You can place the lock assembly in a vise and repeat the procedure or cut the key off.
We're going to try that tomorrow after my dad gets off work.
Someone on another board told me jacking up the front might help, so I'm going to try that.
12-08-2008, 07:11 PM
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1992 300E
12-08-2008, 08:26 PM
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1994 E320 Dragon Wagon
Do some more research bro. The only thing needed are two of the rods or the "V" shaped wire depending on car model. Have you read the removal procedure the guy suggested a few posts back? Ya stick the release wire(s) in each side of the key switch and pop... out she comes.
Many guys just make them out of wire a bit smaller than coat hanger gauge. I borrowed the tool from a local shop in Spokane, it was just bent wire, not a purchased tool. I think MB sells the real one for $5.00
Not sure you'll need the rest of the kit you posted. Jacking up the nose is strange but who knows???
Try "loading" the steering wheel gently as if you're turning left. Hold the wheel against the lock point while jimmying the key. I said move the wheel back and forth but I now remember simply loading it worked. You must have experienced this before in cars when the ignition key won't turn and you mess with the wheel to release.
Many guys just make them out of wire a bit smaller than coat hanger gauge. I borrowed the tool from a local shop in Spokane, it was just bent wire, not a purchased tool. I think MB sells the real one for $5.00
Not sure you'll need the rest of the kit you posted. Jacking up the nose is strange but who knows???
Try "loading" the steering wheel gently as if you're turning left. Hold the wheel against the lock point while jimmying the key. I said move the wheel back and forth but I now remember simply loading it worked. You must have experienced this before in cars when the ignition key won't turn and you mess with the wheel to release.
Last edited by White_Knuckles; 12-08-2008 at 08:40 PM.
12-08-2008, 08:36 PM
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1992 300E
Do some more research bro. The only thing needed are two of the rods with bent tips. Have you read the removal procedure? Ya stick 'em in each side of the key switch, rotate and pop... out she comes.
Many guys just make them out of wire a bit smaller than coat hanger gauge. I borrowed a pair from a local shop in Spokane. I think MB sells them for $5.00
Not sure what all the rest of the kit you posted is for. Jacking up the nose is strange but who knows???
Try "loading" the steering wheel gently as if you're turning left. Hold the wheel against the lock point while jimmying the key. I said move the wheel back and forth but I now remember simply loading it worked. You must have experienced this before in cars when the ignition key won't turn and you mess with the wheel to release.
Many guys just make them out of wire a bit smaller than coat hanger gauge. I borrowed a pair from a local shop in Spokane. I think MB sells them for $5.00
Not sure what all the rest of the kit you posted is for. Jacking up the nose is strange but who knows???
Try "loading" the steering wheel gently as if you're turning left. Hold the wheel against the lock point while jimmying the key. I said move the wheel back and forth but I now remember simply loading it worked. You must have experienced this before in cars when the ignition key won't turn and you mess with the wheel to release.
When my dad is working nights, we'll work on the car after school.
I'm hoping to God I can get it working.
12-08-2008, 09:11 PM
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1992 300E
12-08-2008, 09:36 PM
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1994 E320 Dragon Wagon
Lighthouse Import Auto Parts in Spokane offers good deals on parts. I use autohausaz.com a lot, they're excellent with prices and shipping. Ebay for $$ parts is scary.
Mercedes of Spokane is crazy expensive. There's a couple of good indi-shops over here. I've talked to one about the key thing when mine was stuck. He's only heard of the drilling needed in rare cases.
Good luck!
Mercedes of Spokane is crazy expensive. There's a couple of good indi-shops over here. I've talked to one about the key thing when mine was stuck. He's only heard of the drilling needed in rare cases.
Good luck!
12-08-2008, 11:59 PM
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1992 300E
Lighthouse Import Auto Parts in Spokane offers good deals on parts. I use autohausaz.com a lot, they're excellent with prices and shipping. Ebay for $$ parts is scary.
Mercedes of Spokane is crazy expensive. There's a couple of good indi-shops over here. I've talked to one about the key thing when mine was stuck. He's only heard of the drilling needed in rare cases.
Good luck!
Mercedes of Spokane is crazy expensive. There's a couple of good indi-shops over here. I've talked to one about the key thing when mine was stuck. He's only heard of the drilling needed in rare cases.
Good luck!
Thanks for the link. Great prices.
12-28-2008, 06:20 PM
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1992 300E
Well, after the doors were frozen shut for 3 weeks, we finally got to try the sander.
The tumblers are free, but when it hits key position 1, it's stuck, so the cylinder is definitely not disengaging.
Can someone post the directions on how to open the dash and cut the steering lock cylinder, please?
The tumblers are free, but when it hits key position 1, it's stuck, so the cylinder is definitely not disengaging.
Can someone post the directions on how to open the dash and cut the steering lock cylinder, please?
