Key tumbler
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Local euro garage quoted us $500 for the complete service, which includes new steering lock cylinder, key tumbler, and keys.
It feels like the key goes in fine, but the steering lock won't disengage
I tried a method where after inserting the key you press a vibrating sander on the back of the key while, with a 6" crescent wrench, you apply slight rotation. I gave the thing a shot of WD-40 first but not sure it helps. The sander dances the tumbler pins like crazy, as you roll rotation on and off the core releases and moves to Pos 1. Took about 10 minutes of "sanding".
Don't try moving it back, immediately pull the core. Getting the key back out can be done later using the same method in a vise.
I tried a method where after inserting the key you press a vibrating sander on the back of the key while, with a 6" crescent wrench, you apply slight rotation. I gave the thing a shot of WD-40 first but not sure it helps. The sander dances the tumbler pins like crazy, as you roll rotation on and off the core releases and moves to Pos 1. Took about 10 minutes of "sanding".
Don't try moving it back, immediately pull the core. Getting the key back out can be done later using the same method in a vise.
Get a grip on the key, close to the switch using a small crescent wrench or needle nose pliers with one hand. While pressing the sander's foam backing plate against the back of the key in your other hand, gently rock and rotate the key direction toward position 1.
The wrench or pliers are not for leverage, it's to control the key underneath the sander that blocks your view. Vibrations are transmitted through the key and cause the inner lock pins to jump around randomly. After some "buzzing" the lock will release and rotate. An assistant may have to rock the steering wheel back and fourth as your wheel is also locked. You can try doing this without the sander by aggressively jacking the key around while rotating. Remember to move the wheel back and forth while wiggling the key. WD-40 shot into the lock is to flush out old grease and dirt.
Once it rolls to pos. 1 - STOP. I tried the full key range to see if it released and it stuck again. Once the lock is out, pull your neg. battery cable if worried about batt. drain. You need to recover the outer ring which won't come off with the key inserted. You can place the lock assembly in a vise and repeat the procedure or cut the key off.
Last edited by White_Knuckles; Dec 7, 2008 at 03:02 PM.
The vibration idea is good
squirt some silicon or PTFE (better) into the lock and onto the key
Get a grip on the key, close to the switch using a small crescent wrench or needle nose pliers with one hand. While pressing the sander's foam backing plate against the back of the key in your other hand, gently rock and rotate the key direction toward position 1.
The wrench or pliers are not for leverage, it's to control the key underneath the sander that blocks your view. Vibrations are transmitted through the key and cause the inner lock pins to jump around randomly. After some "buzzing" the lock will release and rotate. An assistant may have to rock the steering wheel back and fourth as your wheel is also locked. You can try doing this without the sander by aggressively jacking the key around while rotating. Remember to move the wheel back and forth while wiggling the key. WD-40 shot into the lock is to flush out old grease and dirt.
Once it rolls to pos. 1 - STOP. I tried the full key range to see if it released and it stuck again. Once the lock is out, pull your neg. battery cable if worried about batt. drain. You need to recover the outer ring which won't come off with the key inserted. You can place the lock assembly in a vise and repeat the procedure or cut the key off.
We're going to try that tomorrow after my dad gets off work.
Someone on another board told me jacking up the front might help, so I'm going to try that.
Many guys just make them out of wire a bit smaller than coat hanger gauge. I borrowed the tool from a local shop in Spokane, it was just bent wire, not a purchased tool. I think MB sells the real one for $5.00
Not sure you'll need the rest of the kit you posted. Jacking up the nose is strange but who knows???
Try "loading" the steering wheel gently as if you're turning left. Hold the wheel against the lock point while jimmying the key. I said move the wheel back and forth but I now remember simply loading it worked. You must have experienced this before in cars when the ignition key won't turn and you mess with the wheel to release.
Last edited by White_Knuckles; Dec 8, 2008 at 08:40 PM.
Many guys just make them out of wire a bit smaller than coat hanger gauge. I borrowed a pair from a local shop in Spokane. I think MB sells them for $5.00
Not sure what all the rest of the kit you posted is for. Jacking up the nose is strange but who knows???
Try "loading" the steering wheel gently as if you're turning left. Hold the wheel against the lock point while jimmying the key. I said move the wheel back and forth but I now remember simply loading it worked. You must have experienced this before in cars when the ignition key won't turn and you mess with the wheel to release.
When my dad is working nights, we'll work on the car after school.
I'm hoping to God I can get it working.
Mercedes of Spokane is crazy expensive. There's a couple of good indi-shops over here. I've talked to one about the key thing when mine was stuck. He's only heard of the drilling needed in rare cases.
Good luck!
Mercedes of Spokane is crazy expensive. There's a couple of good indi-shops over here. I've talked to one about the key thing when mine was stuck. He's only heard of the drilling needed in rare cases.
Good luck!
Thanks for the link. Great prices.
The tumblers are free, but when it hits key position 1, it's stuck, so the cylinder is definitely not disengaging.
Can someone post the directions on how to open the dash and cut the steering lock cylinder, please?



