Gonna take a shot at refinishing my wood
03-18-2009, 12:25 AM
#29
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1992 300TE 4matic wagon
Interesting comments in this thread.....
If there is a way to peal off the old clear with heat etc....why then wouldn't one just keep the old color intact and refinish? Maybe I'm stating the obvious here, or it's not possible because the color comes off with the clear?
Anyone consider a finish like Deft? Very easy to put on, durable and has 'depth' with just a few coats. I have to redo mine, but taking the cowards path, I'll wait to see how your turns out.
Another idea for 'depth'...there is this hobby two part catalyst stuff (clear) that I've used to refinish wooden canoe paddles. It's fifty times thicker than varnish (on just one coat), looks a mile deep, hard as a brick etc..... you secure your project, pour it on, deal with some small bubbles while it cures and let the excess run off on the floor/ground.
Kevin
If there is a way to peal off the old clear with heat etc....why then wouldn't one just keep the old color intact and refinish? Maybe I'm stating the obvious here, or it's not possible because the color comes off with the clear?
Anyone consider a finish like Deft? Very easy to put on, durable and has 'depth' with just a few coats. I have to redo mine, but taking the cowards path, I'll wait to see how your turns out.
Another idea for 'depth'...there is this hobby two part catalyst stuff (clear) that I've used to refinish wooden canoe paddles. It's fifty times thicker than varnish (on just one coat), looks a mile deep, hard as a brick etc..... you secure your project, pour it on, deal with some small bubbles while it cures and let the excess run off on the floor/ground.
Kevin
03-18-2009, 03:05 PM
#30
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I've used Deft polycrylic on woodworking projects. But I don't know how well it would hold up in this environment. to be safe, I'd go with an oil-based finish or automotive clear.
Ps2cho, make sure to *LIGHTLY* sand it with a high grit sandpaper before putting on the clear. Stain has water in it. once the stain has dried, you will notice that the wood has a soft fuzzy consistency. you want to get rid of that before finishing.
again, don't sand too much... you'll risk causing color variation in the stained piece and could blow through the veneer. Just a few strokes over each spot to remove the peach fuzz.
Ps2cho, make sure to *LIGHTLY* sand it with a high grit sandpaper before putting on the clear. Stain has water in it. once the stain has dried, you will notice that the wood has a soft fuzzy consistency. you want to get rid of that before finishing.
again, don't sand too much... you'll risk causing color variation in the stained piece and could blow through the veneer. Just a few strokes over each spot to remove the peach fuzz.
03-18-2009, 05:47 PM
#31
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I've used Deft polycrylic on woodworking projects. But I don't know how well it would hold up in this environment. to be safe, I'd go with an oil-based finish or automotive clear.
Ps2cho, make sure to *LIGHTLY* sand it with a high grit sandpaper before putting on the clear. Stain has water in it. once the stain has dried, you will notice that the wood has a soft fuzzy consistency. you want to get rid of that before finishing.
again, don't sand too much... you'll risk causing color variation in the stained piece and could blow through the veneer. Just a few strokes over each spot to remove the peach fuzz.
Ps2cho, make sure to *LIGHTLY* sand it with a high grit sandpaper before putting on the clear. Stain has water in it. once the stain has dried, you will notice that the wood has a soft fuzzy consistency. you want to get rid of that before finishing.
again, don't sand too much... you'll risk causing color variation in the stained piece and could blow through the veneer. Just a few strokes over each spot to remove the peach fuzz.
On my 10th coat now and starting to see some depth...should be done in a day or two and I will take pictures of final result.
03-18-2009, 05:54 PM
#32
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1992 300TE 4matic wagon
TEN coats????
Well, I can see there is probably no way to shortcut this process.
And yes, most likely the hot environ of a parked car & Deft would not be a good combination...but still....
Kevin
Well, I can see there is probably no way to shortcut this process.
And yes, most likely the hot environ of a parked car & Deft would not be a good combination...but still....
Kevin
03-27-2009, 09:04 PM
#36
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It's looking great 
I just put on my last coat yesterday. Going to sand it using 1200, then wax and buff.
Might not be til Sunday for completion as I'm going to hit up the junkyard for the 260E tomorrow morning, now that my TE is running great
I just put on my last coat yesterday. Going to sand it using 1200, then wax and buff.
Might not be til Sunday for completion as I'm going to hit up the junkyard for the 260E tomorrow morning, now that my TE is running great
03-27-2009, 10:15 PM
#37
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92 500e, 95 E34 525I Touring
Pix or mail bomb 
please. haha
Oh and why did you wait so long between coats? Is it a drying issue or do you just have limited time to work on it?
please. haha
Oh and why did you wait so long between coats? Is it a drying issue or do you just have limited time to work on it?
03-28-2009, 12:33 AM
#38
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Limited time. I did find that 2-4 hours left the coat "sticky" feeling, but left overnight, it wasn't. Not sure if that makes any difference on the bonding or w/e.
03-31-2009, 09:27 PM
#41
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Well I was sanding it down to a perfectly smooth finish when I realized the little tiny wooden strips across the buttons went through to the wood...Dang it!!! Put a delay on it now unfortunately. Here's an update though:
You can see it still needs work on the very bottom of the picture...Still got waves.
You can see it still needs work on the very bottom of the picture...Still got waves.
04-02-2009, 12:53 PM
#42
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cool!
Are you only doing this piece, or are you redoing all of the wood in your car? If you're only doing this piece, how well does it appear to match the rest of the car?
Are you saying that you sanded through the veneer? Not sure I understand what problem you ran into.
Are you only doing this piece, or are you redoing all of the wood in your car? If you're only doing this piece, how well does it appear to match the rest of the car?
Are you saying that you sanded through the veneer? Not sure I understand what problem you ran into.
04-02-2009, 04:30 PM
#43
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cool!
Are you only doing this piece, or are you redoing all of the wood in your car? If you're only doing this piece, how well does it appear to match the rest of the car?
Are you saying that you sanded through the veneer? Not sure I understand what problem you ran into.
Are you only doing this piece, or are you redoing all of the wood in your car? If you're only doing this piece, how well does it appear to match the rest of the car?
Are you saying that you sanded through the veneer? Not sure I understand what problem you ran into.
I sanded through the veneer, yes....gotta build up some layers again before I continue to make sure its flat.
08-02-2009, 04:15 PM
#45
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560Sec
Did you use the oven to remove the old lacquer?
Ps2cho
Did you use the oven to remove the old lacquer? Also, could you respond to me at billcawley@choosinglife.org. I'm getting ready to the wood in my 560SEC and found removing the old lacquer on a test piece quite the challenge and it raised a bit of the veneer.
Bill
Did you use the oven to remove the old lacquer? Also, could you respond to me at billcawley@choosinglife.org. I'm getting ready to the wood in my 560SEC and found removing the old lacquer on a test piece quite the challenge and it raised a bit of the veneer.
Bill
08-03-2009, 05:41 AM
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85 euro w124 300d non turbo black on black......coming soon hx35 turbo intercooler
Good Post! I would use ace hardware polyurethane. My friend builds guitars swears by this stuff. He painted his motorcycle and used polyurethane and uses it on wood. Its in a spray can. Spray it on 20 times itll be glass. Make sure u get the gloss one.
