ps2cho

I have been doing some reading and I think I'm okay taking the risk and doing it!

As far as I have read....I use paint stripper to get rid of the clearcoat which is cracked, wash with warm water and leave to dry. Use a sander (My dad has an electric orbital one) and lightly sand it down. Apply paint...I'm thinking of something a little darker than what I have right now...
Then for clearcoat use Varathane Clear?

The stripper and paint is pretty straightforward...but what about the clearcoat? Will it end up looking like the MB clearcoat that I have right now or will it look weird?

Anybody got any helpful hints?

RBYCC

Heat the wood in an oven to about 125 degrees.
This should soften the surface of the catalyzed system the factory used.

Strippers don't always do the best job on the Merc finish.

Coating should get soft and almost peel off...if the temp is not high enough bump it up about 25 degrees at a a time.

This method was told to me by a very highly regarded professional refinisher who did my woods.

Try not to use water as it opens up the grain.
Use alchohol or lacquer thinner which will clean and leave no residue.

Hand sand with a block and fine grit sandpaper or steel wool...start at 400 and work up.
A orbital sander could go through the veneer.

Are you painting or staining?

Either way use a sealer which will allow the stain to pentrate evenly as well as the paint.

Take your time and good luck

ps2cho

I am staining, sorry.
The oven trick sounds good. Whats the best way to peel it off once it has been heated up?

Any recommended brands for the sealer?

Bigpete123

I will reiterate one very important point that Ed made. absolutely DO NOT use an electric sander of any kind. use a fine grit (200 minimum) sand paper and block sand the flat parts. Carefully sand the curved parts by just holding the paper in your hand.

Don't drench the thing with water. But I would disagree with ed on one point- opening up the grain by applying water is actually an important step in obtaining a fine finish. This is called "raising the grain". If you run a damp sponge over the exposed veneer (the sponge shouldn't be dripping wet, just damp), and you let the wood dry, it will have a peach fuzz conistency to it. Lightly sand off the fuzz.

The reason you do this is because the stain or dye (assuming it is water based) will have the same effect on the wood grain when you apply it. Then you'll have to sand again after the first application of stain or dye, which could cause an inconsistent coloring. This way, you'll end up with a smooth surface even after applying the stain/dye.

Make sure you COMPLETELY remove the old finish. If you don't remove it everywhere, your stain/dye will only absorb in the spots where you have effectively removed the finish and it will look really bad.

Here's another option for you. Try using a dye rather than a stain. Dye is pretty similar to stain, but the major difference is that you don't have to wipe it off after application. You just let it dry.

The advantage to dye over stain is that you can use bleach to remove it if you don't like the color. Here's a dye that I've had a lot of success with on my woodworking projects:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...lter=transtint

It comes in a liquid concentrate, which is another advantage: you can dilute with water to your desired darkness. There's no formula to diluting it- you can mix however you want to.

One word of caution about water-based dyes though. If you plan to brush or rub your clear finish on, and it's a water based finish, the clear finish will pull up some of the dye. This can cause ugly color variations. So after you've applied the dye and you're ready for the finish, make sure you seal the dye in with a shellac sealer:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details

Let me find another recent thread where a guy did this. He gave really detailed instructions. His turned out incredible. He used stripper, but apparently it took a number of applications. (I've never seen the oven technique done, but if it worked for Ed I'm sure it will work for you). The guy also used an automotive clear coat. You'll apply lots of coats and spend lots of time buffing and wet sanding, etc.

Be prepared to spend a LOT of time on this project. Patience is key. Don't set a timeline for yourself. Whenever I do a woodworking project and I find myself getting into the mindset where I'm frustrated and rushing myself, I take a break. You don't want to cut any corners. This is one of those things where time and patience have a huge impact on the quality of the outcome.

Anyway, let me find that thread.

Bigpete123

Here it is:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-projects.html

bluecoupe

Good luck with your wood... Make sure you give it a good polishing to finish off!

RBYCC

Pete...

Totally agree with what you say...you found a great way to explain it.
I was worried by the "wash" comment by the OP...so mentioned the solvent method to clean the veneer prior to finishing..

The heat method was told to me by Drew at Heritage Woodworks who did my woods...
He has mastered the technique of heating and peeling.

It allows for no potential damage to the very thin veneer from a harsh chemical stripper.

Ed A.

Kestas

I question the efficacy of 125°F temperature. I say this because it is an accepted fact that interior temperatures can get over 180°F in the Arizona sun, and cars interiors are (or should be) designed with this in mind.

If what you say is true, there would be a whole segment of unhappy MB owners in the desert climate.

RBYCC

First an ambient air temp of 180F doesn't equate to a similar surface temp...
If it did you would get a third degree burn when you touch the steering wheel !!!

However the very thermal cycling conditions you describe is why the coating cracks and clouds up.

If you read my full post I said to start at 125 and bump it up 25 degrees at a time until it softens.

Much easier and safer to start at a low point and find the softening point based on the actual oven you are using

Kestas

How so? Isn't that the definition of an oven, which you suggested using?
Plus, I was being a bit generous. I've actually read data that brings this temperature to 210°F.

Don't be so dramatic. There's not enough heat transfer from hot steering wheel fabric to burn you.
But yes, you can get a first degree burn from a metal belt buckle in that extreme case.

papromike

DONT USE HEAT!!!

the Wood is veneered to an Aluminum Backing Plate, Wood and Aluminum have different heat characteristics and expand and contract @ different rates, this will cause the Wood to pull away from the Aluminum.


Take your time and DO NOT USE SANDPAPER, until you get to the "sanding in between clear coat" stages.


Use JASCO stripper, it is very important that you use a stripper designed for LAQUER..

It will NOT harm the wood.

This is going to take a few days of stripping, in between applying stripper use #0000 steel wool to finish.

Once you get down to the entire wood is free of laquer and you apply your first coat of stain, use the steel wool to rub out the fuzzies, NOT SANDPAPER, believe me you can sand through the top coat of the veneer in a heartbeat its only abou 3mil thick under that is plain old plywood.


I used a dark wood filler for mine, this brought out the grain, the factory mercedes wood is a neutral wood filler, you will need to apply this before the stain to fill in the grain pores in the wood, while that is still a bit damp, rub it down with steel wool.


Once you have it filled to your liking, apply the stain of your choice (I used Minwax Dark Walnut) and burnish it I.E. rub it in with steel wool, I did about 4 coats.

Once I had the desired color, I applied Automotive Grade laquer, you can buy it for $22 per quart at pep boys, Kragen, etc. and I sprayed it with my air gun, you can use an aersol version too.

After and only after about 4-5 coats, you can lightly rub it with 400grit sandpaper I would lightly go over the entire thing, then apply 2-3 more coats, then sand again, once you have put down 6-8 good coats (allowing 1 hour between drying times) you can rub it down with 600-800 Grit sandpaper.


after that I put a final 2 coats on it and sanded that with 1000grit, then one more top coat then used rubbing compound and a buffing wheel on my bench grinder..

voila good as new..


Took me a while but it turned out very nice... The automotive laquer has a UV agent in it and dries to a very hard surface.

RBYCC

First of all the difference between an oven and the interior of a car is that the design of an oven is insulated so not to act as a heat sink and retain heat and bake.

The car interior has a great deal of mass that acts as a heat sink which prevents the interior surfaces from getting anywhere near the ambient air temperature.

Heat transfer ???
If the surface temp is 180F as the ambient you will get a third degree burn within a second.
You've proven the point as I explained above that the surface temp of a car interior does not equate to the ambient air temp.

If this still presents a quandry to you may I suggest :
Heat your oven to 180F and place your hand on the sides or bottom.

Then wait for a day when your interior reaches 180F and place your hand on the dash.

When you're done your research then report back.

The method that I posted was given to me by the owner of Heritage Woodworks who is probably one of the top concours refinishers in the USA.
This is the method that he used on my C124 woods.

If you will not only read, but comprehend I clearly stated "start at 125F...and bump up 25F at a time until it softens"

Neither I or you know how the OP's oven is calibrated..he's doesn't have a calibrated industrial oven, but will use his stove.

If I would have said start a 200F and his calibration was off and gave 275F that may not be such a good thing.

Why risk damage when it's easy to step up slowly to the softening point ???

You do it your way, and I'll stand by what a professional suggests

RBYCC

The heating process is what Heritage Woodworks uses.

The coating on the 124 was not a lacquer but a very durable catalyzed finish which resists most chemical strippers.

You can refinish in lacquer which is a more forgiving process then a two step catalyzed or cross linked finish, but it will not give the same durability.
The lacquer is easier to repair and touch up but was never used on the 124 series wood.

Bigpete123

can't deny the results!

Ed do you use a putty knife to remove the peeling/softened finish?

Papromike, I didn't realize the veneer was that thin. If that's the case then you're right, sandpaper is a bit risky.

berti_00

i tried refinishing it but screwed it up lol so i painted silver like my car and i love it much more.... i will post pic one of these days

Kestas

RBYCC, I don't question your method of refinishing interior wood trim. But your explanation of heat and ovens and how they're different from hot interiors makes no sense. It shows a lack of understanding the principles of heat transfer.

I suggest you look up the definition of third degreee burn.

I can only wonder what other misinformation you provide on the internet.

childofjuly

papromike

The finish is Nitrocellulose laquer, no longer in production as it was toxic to the ozone.

all of the new benz's use polyurethane laquer.

The Jasco stripper will take it right off... just takes a few coats and doesnt damage the finish.

RBYCC

I'm getting old and forgetful... if you're not questioning then why are we communicating

You are astute and perhaps a wealth of knowledge, so share and please enlighten me and show me the error of my ways !

Thus I misinform no more !!!

RBYCC

The 124 series did not use nitrocellulose lacquer as a factory finish.
It used a catalyzed two part system.

If you removed nitrocellulose then it had been incorrectly previously refinished.

rivcal4life

I think the issue is that you have a lack of understanding the vast differences of heat being dissipated in a 32cu' oven and in a 150cu' vehicle. The fact that you would even compare the two as similar ovens is laughable. Not to mention the differences in heat transfer between a metal and a wood or laquer.

Ovens (as RBYCC said) are specifically designed or reflect and direct heat back towards the object they are cooking, while a car has thousands of square inches of surface area dissipating that heat every second. Some very efficiently. You also bring up the fact of a heated seat buckle being able to burn you. In my experience, this only happens with in direct exposure to the sun, which is a completely different beast than saying that the ambient air temperature heated it to this point. You admit that the buckle and steering wheel have two very different properties of heat transfer, as does the wood and laquer on it.

I have never known RBYCC to comment on a subject with a suggestion that he hasnt personally had experience in. And experience trumps your personal hypothetical theories any day.

rivcal4life

Hey Ps2cho, did you ever do your wood? Just curious if and how you ended up doing it. Im looking into tackling mine this weekend.

YNVDIZW124

Since I was doing my interior I decided to paint the wood too. The bottom was painted a grey/black faux marble finish a long time agon but it's all going to match once i get more wood pieces. I need to cover my dash in leather or suede because it's blue right now. Also, I've been restoring the plastic too because it was all dried out and now it's nice and black. I also need to adjust the glove box hook because the plate that holds the screws came outta place and it's a b!tch to put it back. That Iplug thing is for my GPS because it has bluetooth. I'm also going to paint the A/C vents black too.

Here is the center console without being clear coated yet. I'm not sure if I want a gloss or satin finish.

ps2cho

Just waiting on getting it finished with the clearcoat...It's all stripped and ready.

ps2cho

Here ya go boys! So far I like it!









Gonna let it settle in overnight then going to apply the clearcoat.

Fingers crossed it turns out good!