sasjzl

Hi out there,

a few tenderfoot head removal questions:

1.
Is there a 'best practice' for disconnecting the injector plugs to get the harness out of the way? I can see that there are 3 strong clips attaching each. I really do not want to break or bend any of them because I am sure they are very important. I am having a hard time imagining being able to pry all three at the same time and I have not been able to wiggle the injector plug around enough to do one at a time. Does this require Mercedes special tool 10900100091001001001999234823498814009823401991 :;}
I would cry if I busted one of these injectors up.

2.
The black plastic that is above the manifold that attaches to the two pipes. Does all that black plastic come off? If so is there a smart way to remove that? I have a few of the bolts loosened around cylinders 1-2 but it looks like it gets tighter and tighter as I move towards the firewall. I just want to make sure that I have to remove this black plastic stuff.

3.
I am pretty sure that I have removed the 8 bolts that hold the timing chain cover on and I can see its outline pretty well. Looks like there is some original sealing stuff in the seams. Does this take some aggressive banging and/or prying on it to remove the cover? It is looking like it would but I am afraid of getting too rough with it. It is aluminimum right?

4. I cannot remove the fan. I know that I have in the past when I had to change the serpentine belt but all that I happens is the pulley starts slipping right before it feels like I am breaking the grip of the nut on there. I don't know how I did it before but any hints on holding that pulley in a safe way to remove the fan? Does it absolutely have to come off?

Thanks very much for all the fine help.

Jim Lee

GEDaggett

1. The clips are actually a single clip one side kinda flips out of the way somewhat and you can then pull the injector connector off.

2.not sure what you are referring too. Pic would help.

3. The sealant is most likely what is keeping the cover on. Don't hammer it. you can pry on it very carefully. It is aluminum so be careful and the trick is not brute force but a constant stead pressure with pry it right off.

4. The fan does come off and you need to you a long flat head screw driver. Use the two bolts you are not loosing as a base to set up a pry so that the you can hold the fan in place while loosening the others.

Hope this helps

ps2cho

^ A plastic mallet used carefully can help pull off the cover. Don't go crazy though. Just a helpful tap. Do not use a metal mallet!!

sasjzl

Thanks very much.
It turned out that removing the injector connectors and front timing plate was not that big a deal though my brother-in-law helped me with using a sharp chisel at the top of the timing chain cover to undo the seal that had been there for 14 years.

Now I am getting hung up on a couple more things, primarily the very last intake bolt. As you stand on the drivers side and face the intake bolts it is on the extreme right and bottom of where the black plastic and fuel rail aluminum attach to the head. Too close to the firewall for my comfort. I have a picture at this URL with the partially hidden bolt circled in yellow.

http://home.earthlink.net/~sasjzl/1987volvo240/

I have pretty much come to the conclusion that I need to remove, or at least move, the oil filter recepatcle. I just cannot get a 6mm hex head in there at the angle that the oil filter housing provides me.

Any hints on removing the hex head that attachs the oil dipstick to the head? Same problem with the firewall. The only thing I can get in there is an L Shaped hex key but I cannot get enough leverage on that little thing to get that bolt. It is right up against the inner sidewall.

In the book and the cd pictures it shows an 'intermediate' gear that is revealed when you remove the timing plate not too far below the two cam pulleys. I don't see that on my 1995 e320. As far as I can tell they are not terribly clear in the manuals aobut how the chain comes off. The only way I can think of is to remove the exhaust side pulley using a Torx 40 bit and removing that. I have marked the chain to the pulleys and slid the 4mm into the holes on the pulley from both sides so I am pretty confident about TDC.

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee

1995 E320 Wagon

GEDaggett

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0231050

For that six mm bolt in the back this is the tool you need. Sears has them for a lot cheaper ($10.00) but I couldn't find it on Sears web site. I fought that stupid little bolt for almost an hour the first time I took it off this kit cut it down to about 3 minutes. Get this wrench set and you will have it off in no time. The only thing you will have to locate is a 6mm bit to go into it. It should do well for you.

Hope that helps,

Gary

hineywineries

From the questions you are asking, I really suggest you take it to an MB shop if doing a valve job. Getting the head off is the easy part.

sasjzl

Just planning to replace the head gasket to cure a very bad oil leak. But as long as we are talking valve jobs how much would that be and would it be a dumb thing not to do at 197k? My brother-in-law was talking $300 but that sounds kind of low to me.

Thanks,
Jim Lee

Kestas

The $300 is to refurbish the head after it's been removed from the car. After 197K it would be a sensible thing to do after all that work.

GEDaggett

Agreed, If you are planning keeping the car for the long haul do it.

ohlord

1995 M104
http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/M104HeadGasket
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