Just bought an 87 260E
03-16-2009, 08:52 PM
#51
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You are getting 28mpg in your benz? 
About to order the new wires, rotor, cap, o2 sensor, idle air hoses and coolant temp sensor...easy $300 tuneup
Not too bad...
About to order the new wires, rotor, cap, o2 sensor, idle air hoses and coolant temp sensor...easy $300 tuneup
Not too bad...
03-16-2009, 11:09 PM
#52
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Yeah, but i drive really slow and i don't use my brakes that much. I hyper mile my w124 everyday to work. I don't think i can get fire anytime soon so whenever i get there it's ok i'm never in a hurry. When I do drive 75-85 i get like 18-20mpg. I've gone almost 90 miles on 3 gallons so it's about there... normal driving i do get about 24-25. I used to get 30+ on my 190e but it was a 4cyl 2.3 engine..
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; 03-16-2009 at 11:14 PM.
03-17-2009, 12:16 AM
#54
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I have no idea to be honest. Maybe just coincidence?
I ended up just getting the Ignition Wires and idle air hoses. My reasoning: When I swapped out my Rotor + Cap on the TE, it made no difference...so they must be okay. I'll just swap them out. I want to test the voltage on the O2 sensor before changing that too.
After doing some reading on the emission results...it seems to point towards a very lean mixture. So obviously the biggest culprit could be a massive vacuum leak especially with the rock hard hoses. That's my start and we will see where it takes me.
I ended up just getting the Ignition Wires and idle air hoses. My reasoning: When I swapped out my Rotor + Cap on the TE, it made no difference...so they must be okay. I'll just swap them out. I want to test the voltage on the O2 sensor before changing that too.
After doing some reading on the emission results...it seems to point towards a very lean mixture. So obviously the biggest culprit could be a massive vacuum leak especially with the rock hard hoses. That's my start and we will see where it takes me.
03-17-2009, 12:19 AM
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92 500e, 95 E34 525I Touring
It looks like someone backed into a pole on all of those pictures, and replaced the deck lid and the rear bumper. The dented part is a hell of a ***** to replace.
03-17-2009, 12:38 AM
#56
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Yep that's why I am not worrying too much about it lol. Not gonna go anything to this car until the engine passes the smog. If I can get it to pass the smog, I think it will be close to perfect.
03-17-2009, 01:55 AM
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300TE / 300E / 300CE
03-17-2009, 09:10 PM
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92 500e, 95 E34 525I Touring
awhh now thats just gross.
Reminds me of that scene from training day. lmao
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KGRZ...eature=related
Reminds me of that scene from training day. lmao
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KGRZ...eature=related
03-17-2009, 09:36 PM
#61
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hey if you need a set of Spark plug cables i got a sweet set that i was gone put on my car but its gone now soo they are for sale... they are SUperBOsch or something pulled of a car were in there for less than 500 miles... they look like new
leme know
leme know
03-18-2009, 12:08 AM
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1994 E420
03-18-2009, 04:24 PM
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Hey, I did my smog test and it failed the 25mph test yesterday. Maybe you can use these numbers. Big difference is the RPMs on your smog test. After it failed mine i was like FAWK!! and i adjusted everything i could but i flipped my numbers and barely passes the second test. I'm going to re-adjust everything to get it even between the two numbers. Once you get everything figured out with the o2 sensor add some isopropyl alcohol to the gas tank or you can buy ISO-HEET from pepboys..
Here is the first test...
Second test... PASSED!
This is an 86 300e with 250k miles...
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; 03-18-2009 at 07:25 PM.
03-19-2009, 05:46 PM
#65
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Okay...Testing day!
Fuel pressure at idle 5.5bar upper. Lower = 5.1bar which is dead on MB specs. Can rule this off now.
When the ignition is on, engine off, we are reading 69.3% duty cycle...which is correct. When I deflect the throttle it drops to 9.3%...but when I hit WOT, it stays at 10%. On the landis site it states at WOT it should show 20%.
Why isn't it exactly 70% and 10%? Why 69.3?
I checked potentiometer and it shows .7v so its not that.
Any ideas?
Fuel pressure at idle 5.5bar upper. Lower = 5.1bar which is dead on MB specs. Can rule this off now.
When the ignition is on, engine off, we are reading 69.3% duty cycle...which is correct. When I deflect the throttle it drops to 9.3%...but when I hit WOT, it stays at 10%. On the landis site it states at WOT it should show 20%.
Why isn't it exactly 70% and 10%? Why 69.3?
I checked potentiometer and it shows .7v so its not that.
Any ideas?
Last edited by ps2cho; 03-19-2009 at 06:57 PM.
03-24-2009, 01:47 AM
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03-24-2009, 04:15 PM
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Saw the car today. Looks totally salvageable with a little TLC. Paint looks really nice when the dust is wiped away. Wash, Wax and a claybar and I bet it will shine
Engine is very dusty, but the car was running while I took the pictures...Looks like a misfire-type shake although it could be mounts because the actual engine sound wasn't too bad.
The ABS light could be just the OVP...had the same light when I got my 300TE originally. I'll head down tomorrow and swap it out with the spare I have.
Overall the car is just dirty...but its a dirty that can be cleaned up with a little TLC
Gonna pick the car up tomorrow and we will see what a good clean can do.
Also Question: If you look at the trunk lid...it has some lines in the paint on both sides...anybody know what the heck they are?
Engine is very dusty, but the car was running while I took the pictures...Looks like a misfire-type shake although it could be mounts because the actual engine sound wasn't too bad.
The ABS light could be just the OVP...had the same light when I got my 300TE originally. I'll head down tomorrow and swap it out with the spare I have.
Overall the car is just dirty...but its a dirty that can be cleaned up with a little TLC
Gonna pick the car up tomorrow and we will see what a good clean can do.
Also Question: If you look at the trunk lid...it has some lines in the paint on both sides...anybody know what the heck they are?
03-24-2009, 09:04 PM
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03-28-2009, 01:10 PM
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Okay! Ran a carfax on it.
The odometer gave out sometime between 2002 and 2004. Previous reported mileage was 78k. Based on that and the drivers average annual miles...Car must be somewhere between 85k-95k tops.
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What can I do about the odometer? What is required to get it running again? I have read it could be just the little cogs have come loose...Is this fixable DIY or will I need to send (I assume) the instrument cluster to somewhere to get it repaired?
The odometer gave out sometime between 2002 and 2004. Previous reported mileage was 78k. Based on that and the drivers average annual miles...Car must be somewhere between 85k-95k tops.
----
What can I do about the odometer? What is required to get it running again? I have read it could be just the little cogs have come loose...Is this fixable DIY or will I need to send (I assume) the instrument cluster to somewhere to get it repaired?
