YNVDIZW124

Dexron is fine but i would buy a pump and drain the torque converter... the whole transmission should take about 7qts but make sure you check the level on the pan because that's just like 1 1/2 qts...

My car still runs smooth but i need to change the fuel accumulator because i have hot start problems... I'm actually going to part it out later on in a couple weeks...

ps2cho

I'm reading in my E-Class owners bible that you don't need a pump -- only to turn the crankshaft until the torque converter drain plug becomes visible.

Also looks like my 260E only takes 5.8qts as opposed to 6.5qts in the 300E.

rivcal4life

Thats what I did!.

Make sure you turn it the right direction or you could mess up your ignition timing and severely damage your engine!

Or I remember reading you can just get a screwdriver and turn the torque converter directly with it until you find the plug.

OORRRR you can just keep starting the engine and HOPE that it will end up in the right position when you turn it off

ps2cho

So clockwise is the correct way to turn?

bsmuwk

It would be easier to bump the starter a few times until the drain plug comes into view. Nothing but a twitch of the key (turn quickly and let go). You can also have the rear of the car jacked up, put shifter in drive, and turn the driveshaft by hand until the drain plug comes into view.

There's many a ways to go about this.

ps2cho

I can't seem to get the black torque convertor drain plug cover off....It's a black plastic one. Am I doing something wrong here? It spins but does not come out.
Fluid is all out so I just want to drain the TC now.

rivcal4life

Plug cover? I do not remember my car having a cover over the plug itself. Just an allen key plug to unthread. Are you sure you're looking at the right part? Not to insult you

ps2cho

Nevermind you are right. I was looking in the wrong place and got confused. Turned the TC with a screwdriver and it came into view. All is good now. Thanks!

bsmuwk

Now the real question is, what the hell were you spinning?

The only black cover I've seen is one to protect the flywheel/torque converter from rocks flying into bellhousing and that doesn't spin, it pops off.

rivcal4life

ps2cho

All done up...but got a few drips every 10-15mins. Hopefully once it heats up it will stop or ps2cho =

260E is now caught up on the major maintenance items. I tell you what the tranny looks great. I took some pics which I'll post later. There was a lot of metal drained though. I'll filter it out and take a closer look at what it is. I just ran my hand through the bowl I used and there was a lot of grit at the bottom.

rivcal4life

EEK! Did you lubricate the new pan gasket with ATF? Also, if you are now using sythetic DexronIII, this may be part of the reason for the leak.

In lamens terms: The molecules are smaller...Though it is backwards compatible. I used Royal Purple when I did my tranny (something like $9.00/qt :-0) and it still had a small leak for a couple weeks until the new fluid seeped into and sealed old O-rings and gaskets designed for old fluid.

ps2cho

I ended up reseating it and it was fine. It may have been my torquing sequence...

No Valvoline Maxlife DexIII is not synthetic. I'm not into the whole synthetic deal personally...

She runs great now. Shifts are smoother and no leaks. One question though -- When put into 1st gear, there is a wining noise. I'm talking idle here, not accelerating. It could be just the passages getting filled or air purging from the system, but I just wanted to see if you have ever heard of it this or it indicates anything. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it continues after a few days of driving.

That's ATF off my checklist. Next up is Strut mount then figuring out the small A/C leak. After that....oh man the visually pleasing stuff starts

Teutonic

As weak as the W124's US spec headlights are, I still find them more characterful than the more powerful flat-faced Euro lamps.

bsmuwk

That whine is either the front pump on the transmission or the bearings in the torque converter. The new fluid cleaned out the torque converter and pump so that's why you have a whine. If everything shifts smoothly, drive on it for a couple weeks and see if the whine will eventually dissipate.

I'm putting my money on the evaporator for the AC leak. Total PITA to remove the dash just to get to the damn thing.

ps2cho

What about stop-leak on these A/C systems? I've heard both good and bad stories...what do you think?

It's gotta be a small leak if the A/C works for about 1-2 week before the compressor starts clicking due to lack of pressure.

I'm also thinking about putting propane in as its super cheap and I'll be able to smell the leak.

epowers777

on your ac buy the rebuild kit and replace all seals Thats what one of the guys told me at work.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...nversion%20Kit

ps2cho

I don't think the seals are the problem. Its already been converted to R134a by the dealership as it has an R134a MB sticker

rivcal4life

My car actually has a first gear whine while stopped with the gear selector in "b", aka 1. I couldn't tell youwith certainty what it is, but I do have a theory.

At idle, the car isn't creating a HUGE amount of vacuum. Normally, the pressure is divided amount so many sytems. When you push down into 1st gear, the system is just split that much farther. The vacuum modulator is sucking more of that pressure into the valvbody. Once you get the car to kickdown, you can put it back into D, and it will stay in 1st until you're moving.

Then again, your noise may be different than mine. Hard to tell without hearing it in person.

bsmuwk

If it's only lasting about 1-2 weeks, you're looking at a larger leak in the system. I don't think any sealer can effectively seal the AC system. If the system loses pressure at around 2 and a half weeks, the leak is not that severe and a leak sealer may slow the leak considerably, but not overcome and permanently seal the leak. A well maintained system that doesn't need additives to run will run more efficiently.

Otherwise, you should take the car to an AC shop to find the leak (or you can find it with dye and a blacklight).

9 times out of 10 it's the evaporators that leak on all W124 models. Propane is a good alternative. Many have used it with success. The cooling power is very similar to that of R12.

ps2cho

I have an A/C leak detector, but I don't know a whole lot so unless its obvious, I'll take it somewhere and have them find it for me. I'll do all the monkey work myself.

Are the evap and heater core next to each other?

ps2cho

Ugh I hate these early engine temp senders. Just broke ANOTHER one. The green plastic is so damn flimsy. Idles rough now when engine is cold. Once into closed loop its fine. Maybe this is a junkyard grab this time instead of new for $50...Seeing as it only used while the engine is cold, anything should suffice.

bsmuwk

It's used when the engine is warm too.

Gettin' a couple from the junkyard should do you fine. They don't go bad that badly. It may be that you're over torquing them. Tight and snug is good enough.

ps2cho

After about a day the wining went away. Perfect. She shifts awesome and the car is leak-free!

Now that my valve cover gasket is also done, let's see if shes burning any oil...

Off to the junkyard today...hopefully I can find a temp sensor

ps2cho

Got my temp sensor from junkyard and although it looked like it had a little limescale on it....I instantly noticed the difference on startup.

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Ok odo time:

Anybody know why I can physically move the green cog back and forward? This is why my odo won't spin....I just can't see why its being allowed to move and not a solid unit...