400e brake options
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From: OC SoCal
1989 300E
Do you know how those calipers line up with the 500E ones? Just curious if the 400 & 500 are the same or if it would be better to chase down the 500E parts if someone was going to make a major switch over. Once you are into lower control arms, its not much more to do sway bars and springs. At least thats what made me think about it.
ps2cho - I did read you said it needed brakes anyway ... it just didn't sink in. Now that makes much more sense if youre already going to tear it apart to replace the pads and rotos.
ps2cho - I did read you said it needed brakes anyway ... it just didn't sink in. Now that makes much more sense if youre already going to tear it apart to replace the pads and rotos.
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Do you know how those calipers line up with the 500E ones? Just curious if the 400 & 500 are the same or if it would be better to chase down the 500E parts if someone was going to make a major switch over. Once you are into lower control arms, its not much more to do sway bars and springs. At least thats what made me think about it.
ps2cho - I did read you said it needed brakes anyway ... it just didn't sink in. Now that makes much more sense if youre already going to tear it apart to replace the pads and rotos.
ps2cho - I did read you said it needed brakes anyway ... it just didn't sink in. Now that makes much more sense if youre already going to tear it apart to replace the pads and rotos.
500E Calipers + Rotors are bigger than 400E. I believe it goes 300E -> 400E -> SL600 -> 500E -> Brembo.........Correct me if I am wrong.
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Mercedes-Benz 500E
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Alrighty...Got myself a sportline swaybar @ junkyard today. Found some LCA's, but it wasn't 50% off, so I decided to wait.
Gonna need the sportline swaybar bushings. This car is gonna be so sporty once I get the brakes and suspension all dialed in. Can't wait!
Gonna need the sportline swaybar bushings. This car is gonna be so sporty once I get the brakes and suspension all dialed in. Can't wait!
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
They want $25 ea for a LCA but I'd have to replace all the bushings and ball joint to do the conversion...
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I may do the rear swaybar at a later date. I hear its a lot more involved?
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
- Stock 300E 26.5mm
- Stock E420 26.5mm
- Sportline 300E, 300CE 27.5mm
- Stock E300 Cabriolets 27.5mm
- Stock 300TE all wagons 27.5mm
- Sportline E300 Cab or Limo 28.5mm
these numbers are from I believe AMGDave's spreadsheet
You have to drop the rear susp a few inches to get the swaybar in. Wagons have an SLS bracket to fit as well.
Last edited by pifcat2; Mar 14, 2010 at 04:01 PM.
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
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My inner is 27.5 vs 26.5mm, outer is 22mm vs 18mm.
http://www.w124performance.com/image...4_swaybars.pdf
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Here's a video of my Soda Blaster power!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNLPSsxY5Dc
First coat of paint...Will take some better pictures in the AM when I have all 5-6 coats on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNLPSsxY5Dc
First coat of paint...Will take some better pictures in the AM when I have all 5-6 coats on.
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Oh sweet baby jesus 
I didn't even remove the dust shield. I just bashed it until it turned from circle to flat as I desired. Clearance to dust shield covering ball joint is ~2mm.
I didn't even remove the dust shield. I just bashed it until it turned from circle to flat as I desired. Clearance to dust shield covering ball joint is ~2mm.
Last edited by ps2cho; Apr 28, 2010 at 05:37 PM.
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From: OC SoCal
1989 300E
Has anyone else heard this rumor?
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Not after I hammered the dust shield to make it flat. It is close, don't get me wrong. Probably 2mm gap. It would be ~5mm if I cut off the shield, but it seems a pain. You cannot just "remove" the shield without taking the hub off.
I'll drive with it for a while and see how it goes.
Got one side completely done today -- New Tie rod assembly, Eibach springs, Rotors + Calipers. Took quite a while unfortunately...Midway through the front left.
After a little tweaking I did manage to get the front spring out w/o removing anything else. Just gotta really push the plates as high + low as possible.
I'll drive with it for a while and see how it goes.
Got one side completely done today -- New Tie rod assembly, Eibach springs, Rotors + Calipers. Took quite a while unfortunately...Midway through the front left.
After a little tweaking I did manage to get the front spring out w/o removing anything else. Just gotta really push the plates as high + low as possible.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Doubt it panther.
via Wiki
" [edit] Neutralization of acids and bases
Many laboratories keep a bottle of sodium bicarbonate powder within easy reach, because sodium bicarbonate is amphoteric, reacting with acids and bases. Furthermore, as it is relatively innocuous in most situations, there is no harm in using excess sodium bicarbonate. Lastly, sodium bicarbonate powder may be used to smother a small fire.[5]
A wide variety of applications follows from its neutralization properties, including ameliorating (improving) the effects of white phosphorus in incendiary bullets from spreading inside an afflicted soldier's wounds.[6] Sodium bicarbonate can be added as a simple solution for raising the pH balance of water (increasing total alkalinity) where high levels of chlorine (2-5 ppm) are present as in swimming pools and aquariums.[7]"
via Wiki
" [edit] Neutralization of acids and bases
Many laboratories keep a bottle of sodium bicarbonate powder within easy reach, because sodium bicarbonate is amphoteric, reacting with acids and bases. Furthermore, as it is relatively innocuous in most situations, there is no harm in using excess sodium bicarbonate. Lastly, sodium bicarbonate powder may be used to smother a small fire.[5]
A wide variety of applications follows from its neutralization properties, including ameliorating (improving) the effects of white phosphorus in incendiary bullets from spreading inside an afflicted soldier's wounds.[6] Sodium bicarbonate can be added as a simple solution for raising the pH balance of water (increasing total alkalinity) where high levels of chlorine (2-5 ppm) are present as in swimming pools and aquariums.[7]"
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Not after I hammered the dust shield to make it flat. It is close, don't get me wrong. Probably 2mm gap. It would be ~5mm if I cut off the shield, but it seems a pain. You cannot just "remove" the shield without taking the hub off.
I'll drive with it for a while and see how it goes.
Got one side completely done today -- New Tie rod assembly, Eibach springs, Rotors + Calipers. Took quite a while unfortunately...Midway through the front left.
After a little tweaking I did manage to get the front spring out w/o removing anything else. Just gotta really push the plates as high + low as possible.
I'll drive with it for a while and see how it goes.
Got one side completely done today -- New Tie rod assembly, Eibach springs, Rotors + Calipers. Took quite a while unfortunately...Midway through the front left.
After a little tweaking I did manage to get the front spring out w/o removing anything else. Just gotta really push the plates as high + low as possible.
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Nope. The top hits, but that is as simple as bending the shield back. The real issue is the bottom at the ball joint. You can A) Bend the shield back so it is as close to the ball joint as possible, or B) Cut a circle out of the bottom where it touches C) Remove the whole thing.
I have changed my mind and will be cutting a circle around where it hits. I don't want to remove the shield entirely because it would be redundant. Making a small incision where it touches will resolve the issue and still allow me to keep the dust shield.
The caliper touches nothing. Plenty of clearance. Here is a pic:
I have changed my mind and will be cutting a circle around where it hits. I don't want to remove the shield entirely because it would be redundant. Making a small incision where it touches will resolve the issue and still allow me to keep the dust shield.
The caliper touches nothing. Plenty of clearance. Here is a pic:
