ps2cho

I got a set of 400e brakes from the junkyard today. Do I need any diferent rotors or pad combinations?

Can't wait to paint and put them on my 260E...the rotors and pads are pretty much ready to replace.

Do you think I should get some stainless steel lines?

Thanks

Saijin_Naib

How many pistons does the 400 use?

ps2cho

It has 4.

I'm having to do some heavy searching over at peachparts surprisingly and it seems the early models have a problem with it touching the LCA....Some people have had success cutting the dust shield and others have not...so I am a little confused over what I should do. One way is to use the 400E or 93+ LCA and transplant them, but I don't really want all that work.

OJ's DNA

The only 400E rotors I know of that hit the lca is on lowered cars...

JSe420

Might as well get stainless steel lines if your gunna have to bleed anyway

I have some used 400e drilled rotors with about 3/4 life left on them. PM me if your interested.

ps2cho

Thanks, but I plan to buy new so I have a good baseline.

Do I need to get 400E rotors or will 300E rotors work fine? I like the look of the ATE Premium ONE's:

Saijin_Naib

If I recall correctly, you can also get the LCAs from the 90+ 300ce because they are using the LCAs from the r129.

misabou

I don't know about LCA of 400E but I can tell you my experience.

I upgraded my E 220 brakes to 320 CE first series (which are different from E 320 and equal to 300 CE-24); these are also four-cylinder pistons fixed calipers (I don't know if 400 are exactly the same). When I first tried to install in my car I realized that dust shield and also brake disk touch the ball joint; and even if I removed completely the dust shield the play between ball joint and brake disk was extremely low: what it was in my opinion very dangerous. So I realized that LCA must be replaced. If you compare both LCA's you'll find the difference is in the ball joint. The only thing is that with new LCA ball yoint can't be replaced in case of damage.

With rear brakes the problem was the dust shield which is very difficult to replace. So I decided to cut them, as result, is like new intake!!. You only need to make a cut in the top (see photos),

A summary of what I repaced.
- Front lower control arms
- Front Dust shields
- Front Wear pad harness
- Front calipers (1-piston floating calipers by 4-piston fixed calipers)
- Front brake disks (284x22 by 295x22)
- Rear calipers (35 mm double-piston fixed calipers by 38 mm double-piston fixed calipers)
- Rear brake disks (258x9 by 278x9)
- All pads
- brake fluyd

I took all parts from the junk yard except brake disks and brake pads.

I didn't need to replace any line because are the same and I can sure all is right, as a result, and upgraded brake efficiency and cool look!!

Hope useful!!

CDP

Buy Zimmermann rotors.

ps2cho

I've heard good things about them, but I'm afraid they will be too big/wide and not fit!

ps2cho

Did you not replace the master cylinder as well? How is the braking without it? I have been advised to go find one...

misabou

^ No, I haven't replace master cylinder. I've been told is the same.
The breaking is much better than before. I appreciate it when comparing with driving as I used to: The result is that you need to be more smooth with the pedal to decelerate the same amount; more sensibility. And also for emergency stops brakes better. I took me about 6,000 miles to get the optimal brakes condition (When just replaced they brake bad than before as logical). You must take into account I'm a great cruiser. So, I'm very happy with results.

So my recommendation, from my experience, is to change 4 brakes to keep braking balanced. And also paint the brake disks, in the pictures you can see it from new without any protection: After having used some mounths they completely oxidizate with didn't like me at all. So I had to protect them with paint and now looks cool!

SL-ML-C

you can use any 400E rotor, or any W124 E320/E420 rotor but thats it.

MC and booster, you are fine with stock, stainless lines, do it really only if you appreciate that sort of mod and have aother $80-100 to throw at it.

stock single diaphragm booster can still tear your face off, the car stops faster than anything else I own, and that is saying something.

these do wonders for W201s and W124s, I recommend for every owner.

MercBimmerman

Keep in mind that the 92 and 93 400E rotors are not the same
up to Nov 92 they made 22.4mm thickness with 8mm center vent, the upgraded (or 93 400E/94-95 E320/E420) rotors Mercedes installed 25mm with 10.5mm center vent to prevent premature warping. So if you have the newer 93 400E calipers the older style rotors will not work.

ps2cho

Almost ready to do the upgrade.

I'm not sure what year the caliper is from. How can I figure this out?

pifcat2

Did you get the lca's? I just bought a new set for my wagon but should have bought the 400E/300CE type for the upgrade...

My RT sedan actually stopped very well with just quality rotors, pads, and sstl lines.

ps2cho

I decided based on other forum searches that I can do without for right now. If there are any issues I will replace them though. I'll measure the clearance once they are on.

misabou

I don't know if this is right or is a simple chance but is the difference I found from my experience.

The old callipers have printed numbers 39 for the left and 40 for the right as well as the name "Ate" in the outter side, that's what I painted in white. These callipers fit with 295x22 mm brake disks.

The latest callipers have not these numbers printed and fit 294x25 brake disks. (only smaller numbers as 57 in the picture)

ps2cho

Hmm interesting. I am doing some searching for pictures.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-calipers.html
90' 300CE has the ATE symbol.

You might be onto something...

misabou

Yes, the upgrade was carried out in 1992 (last months aprox).

ps2cho

Got all my parts!

Can't wait to install all this.

ocpanther

Looks like fun ... new toys to play with. Do you feel like you needed upgraded brakes? Mine are still bone stock and stop really well. Granted I just had them done a couple of months ago, but they are still really sharp.

Let us all know how this goes, I am very interested in the experiance and improvemnts gained.

Saijin_Naib

Same fluid I got

ps2cho

I've heard they are a really good upgrade. First I found the 400E Calipers @ the junkyard...then I needed to do a complete rotor + pad change anyway as my current rotors are looking tired, so I figured why not? It costs about $60 more in parts and I may run into some issues (possibly) with the lower control arms...but I think it "should" go smoothly once I just remove the dust shield completely.

Also they look *****in'

I have the rear 400E/300TE calipers, but my rears are fine right now so once they wear out I will do it. I've heard its a much more involved job because to take off the dust shields is a lot of work, so it would require either a) removing them or b) cutting them up. Both of which will take time and effort.

I went with whatever Pepboys carried. It looked fine and exceeds DOT4 so should be okay to use in non-track environments.

I was gonna get some stainless steel lines, but I thought why spend $110 on em? The 400E didn't need em...so I just bought new OEM for $10/each

ps2cho

I know it was mentioned above that lowering the car may impact it...
If so, I will have to get some 400E LCA I guess!