Fuel pump won't engage...
#1
Fuel pump won't engage...
hi. Could someone please shed some light as to why I cant hear my fuel pump engage when I try to turn on the engine? I cant start the vehicle it just cranks. New fuel pump too... any advice would be much appreciated.
#2
had a look at what I believe is the OVP relay. the fuse appeared to be fine.
then i started to look at the wiring that runs to the adapter and it appeared as though one wire had melted and stuck to another wire??
separated and insulated the bare wire(s) to test if the vehicle starts and unfortunately it still does not fire.
any ideas folks?
then i started to look at the wiring that runs to the adapter and it appeared as though one wire had melted and stuck to another wire??
separated and insulated the bare wire(s) to test if the vehicle starts and unfortunately it still does not fire.
any ideas folks?
#3
update: pulled out the OVP relay. had a look internally to find a failure. i think this may be the culprit. will solder up and see if it fixes the problem
Last edited by w124lk; 03-01-2017 at 09:54 AM.
#4
Super Member
And did it fix your prolem ?.
If still the same join no 7 and no 8 conntacts in the base of fuel relay .It sits in the same location as the ovp relay ..Only to see if it is the fuel relay at fault .MOST Important to remove wire link after you try this task .Doing this fires up the pump none stop ,and will fill the inlet manifold with fuel if left in place
If still the same join no 7 and no 8 conntacts in the base of fuel relay .It sits in the same location as the ovp relay ..Only to see if it is the fuel relay at fault .MOST Important to remove wire link after you try this task .Doing this fires up the pump none stop ,and will fill the inlet manifold with fuel if left in place
#5
hi yes it fixed the problem and the fuel pump is now working. vehicle starts and drive but i will not drive the vehicle as the cause of this in the first place is the wiring harness. it is completely destroyed im afraid
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#9
Super Member
I know of a lot of members that have had this problem over here in england .And have rewired the engine compartment loom with one from the pick and pull yard .The engine loom works out about £500 for a new new one in the uk ..Good luck hope you fix it soon.
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optimusprime m1 (03-13-2017)
#11
Super Member
If i could my friend i would .These things are sent to try us .Like my 260e i have had one thing after another, but only small items . But you find one problem , only to end up with two more . Like door straps going off like a gun as you open the door replaced all 4 of them .You name it i have had my hands in to it . But thats the joy of owning an old benz .I dont look at it so bad after i go to the car shows and people just want to look ,and ask questions about it .My car is not a show stopper by a long way .But 100% original and all the bits and bobs that came with it new , i have them with the car .Down to a box of Imperial Mints that still sit in the cubby hole ..And original number plates sit on the front and rear.
#13
Super Member
124 you keep your chin up , and get stuck in to the mercedes wires . Do you have a scrap yard by you ? Pick a loom up from the yard .You will see how its removed getting it out of the engine yourself. But main thing is to take a camera, and a roll of masking tape, to stick on the end of the wire . You mark it with the marker, or a felt pen as you remove it.
#14
Yes i was about to remove the harness yesterday evening however i wasnt sure where the harness runs after it exits the plastic casing near the power steering reservoir?? I can see the casing which sits on top of the inlet manifold. Just cant see whats underneath the manifold and where the loom runs underneath it? engine is the M111
#21
Super Member
Nice to hear that the job was worth it after the work you put in . Now its time to enjoy it ..Thanks for letting us know. Did you open any of the loom up to see the damaged area ? .
#22
Hi optimus. Upon inspecting the loom i found that the worst deterioration was on the injector wires and the wire which goes to the MAF sensor. Its a very messy job and when you're moving the wires around it will only do more damage and leave bits of insulation everywhere. Some wires were completely bare. When you're taking out the old harness you will slightly move the ignition coil harness connector. Mine was very brittle and the insulation started to flake off. I ordered a genuine one with the main loom, its a fraction of the engine loom price . This took most of the time as the ignition coils on this engine were located under the inlet manifold. Not the easiest place! Hands had to suffer some pain as you have to get under the inlet manifold. I preferred not to remove the manifold. I had the throttle body removed so it made it a little easier to see from above. The coil harness would cop quite some heat i'd imagine as it sits beneath the inlet manifold. MAF sensor would not be too far as the standard wiring runs along the valve cover. Great place to get cooked. I can say that replacing the harness will put many things right on these cars.