DIY - Brake Job Questions - I searched...
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From: Raleigh, NC
DIY - Brake Job Questions - I searched...
I am getting ready to tackle front and rear brake pads on my 2000 E320 Wagon but I have few questions.
1. Are there sensors on the front and rear pads or just the front pads?
2. How do I determine which pads I need? I saw that for the 2000 model they have either 1 or 2 bolts in the rear caliper.
3. Where do I aquire the sensors and grey brake paste for the best price?
Thank you,
Andrew Roane
1. Are there sensors on the front and rear pads or just the front pads?
2. How do I determine which pads I need? I saw that for the 2000 model they have either 1 or 2 bolts in the rear caliper.
3. Where do I aquire the sensors and grey brake paste for the best price?
Thank you,
Andrew Roane
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 64
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From: Oxnard
2000 E320 Nice & Stock
Since this is your first time, I would really recommend getting geniune mercedes parts. At least the first time. Then you'll know what to look for in parts the next time you do a your brake job.
The sensors are just little wires with clips that insert into the pads. The pads contact the rotor, completing the circuit, lighting up the light saying replace your brakes. If you have the error light, you'll notice that it doesn't appear until you step on the brakes.
The sensors are just little wires with clips that insert into the pads. The pads contact the rotor, completing the circuit, lighting up the light saying replace your brakes. If you have the error light, you'll notice that it doesn't appear until you step on the brakes.
Originally Posted by roane10
I am getting ready to tackle front and rear brake pads on my 2000 E320 Wagon but I have few questions.
1. Are there sensors on the front and rear pads or just the front pads?
2. How do I determine which pads I need? I saw that for the 2000 model they have either 1 or 2 bolts in the rear caliper.
3. Where do I aquire the sensors and grey brake paste for the best price?
Thank you,
Andrew Roane
1. Are there sensors on the front and rear pads or just the front pads?
2. How do I determine which pads I need? I saw that for the 2000 model they have either 1 or 2 bolts in the rear caliper.
3. Where do I aquire the sensors and grey brake paste for the best price?
Thank you,
Andrew Roane
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 152
Likes: 2
You'll need one sensor per axle. I use the red goop available at Autozone or PepBoys in my area. It's made by CRC or something like that. Comes in a 4-6 oz. red squeeze bottle.
The sensors can be bought at your dealer or mercedesshop.com.
As for your rear brakes, you will have to take a wheel off and see if there are one or two thin metal rods holding the brake pads in place.
The sensors can be bought at your dealer or mercedesshop.com.
As for your rear brakes, you will have to take a wheel off and see if there are one or two thin metal rods holding the brake pads in place.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 405
Likes: 12
From: Sacramento, CA
W204 C300 2010
Originally Posted by roane10
I am getting ready to tackle front and rear brake pads on my 2000 E320 Wagon but I have few questions.
1. Are there sensors on the front and rear pads or just the front pads?
Yes, sensors for the front and rear, but only on one front wheel and one rear wheel.
2. How do I determine which pads I need? I saw that for the 2000 model they have either 1 or 2 bolts in the rear caliper.
I am not sure, but many online parts sources now have more information to help determine this. I have not had to change my rear pads yet.
3. Where do I aquire the sensors and grey brake paste for the best price?
For the sensors, the dealer is the easiest, but most online suppliers have them. Even the online chain stores like Kragen's (partsamerica.com) have these sensors, but the seem to be a couple of dollars more than the dealer.
As for the paste, I used anti-seize compound on the back of the pads.
Andrew Roane
1. Are there sensors on the front and rear pads or just the front pads?
Yes, sensors for the front and rear, but only on one front wheel and one rear wheel.
2. How do I determine which pads I need? I saw that for the 2000 model they have either 1 or 2 bolts in the rear caliper.
I am not sure, but many online parts sources now have more information to help determine this. I have not had to change my rear pads yet.
3. Where do I aquire the sensors and grey brake paste for the best price?
For the sensors, the dealer is the easiest, but most online suppliers have them. Even the online chain stores like Kragen's (partsamerica.com) have these sensors, but the seem to be a couple of dollars more than the dealer.
As for the paste, I used anti-seize compound on the back of the pads.
Andrew Roane
If you don't want the stock "dusting" pads, look at the selection from the tirerack.com. They have many aftermarket pads for the W210. Also note, some more high performance pads do not have the cut-out for the sensor. If so, you just have to periodically check manually.
Also, I am running EBC "green" pads right now. The are supposed to be low dust, but they still leave dust on the wheels, just not as much as stock. I am sure other forum members can share their own experiences.
The first time I changed the pads, I also had the rotors re-surfaced, these were the stock originals. Everything was good for a couple of weeks, then they warped. I ended up getting new Brembo stock type rotors for replacement. Again, this is only my experience, other's may know differently.
Good luck!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 306
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From: Salinas, CA (831)
2007 E550
I got brembo slotted rotors for the front with some type of metallic pads, don't remember the name brand but mine leave alot of brake dust and brembo OEM replacement rear rotors with c-class pads because they sent me the wrong ones but at least they still work, new sensors for the front and I removed the sensors for the rear due to the pads being the wrong ones.
And as far as braking I can tell that I have better braking power than before.
Here is a pic of what they look like:
And as far as braking I can tell that I have better braking power than before.
Here is a pic of what they look like:
Last edited by TruE320Ridah14; Oct 14, 2005 at 03:45 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 42
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From: S. CA
'05 C320
Originally Posted by cody
Since this is your first time, I would really recommend getting geniune mercedes parts. At least the first time. Then you'll know what to look for in parts the next time you do a your brake job.
Also, when you do it yourself, don't just replace the pads. Take off the rotors and take them to a local tire or a brake shop for resurfacing. It costs very little money but without it the brake may will squeak or the steering wheel may will vibrate.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 0
From: Naples, FL
BMW X3. R33 skyline
Originally Posted by TruE320Ridah14
I got brembo slotted rotors for the front with some type of metallic pads, don't remember the name brand but mine leave alot of brake dust and brembo OEM replacement rear rotors with c-class pads because they sent me the wrong ones but at least they still work, new sensors for the front and I removed the sensors for the rear due to the pads being the wrong ones.
And as far as braking I can tell that I have better braking power than before.
Here is a pic of what they look like:
And as far as braking I can tell that I have better braking power than before.
Here is a pic of what they look like:
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Brakes
I would get OEM sensors..however, I would shop around for the actual pads front/rear. Padgid makes a good product and I have have had no problems with them on several different vehicles I have installed them in. It's a very easy job for a first time DIY project. Resurfacing is up to you, I have done it, but it's not essential. If you did not have any problems prior to the brake job, you should not have any vibration problems afterward. I have dealt with, not on MBs specifically, were having the rotors resurfaced actually exacerbated the warping on the rotors and actually made it worse - just for your 411.
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: Salinas, CA (831)
2007 E550
OEM replacement ones:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...tor&perfCode=P
Slotted one:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...tor&perfCode=S
Drilled ones:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...tor&perfCode=S
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...tor&perfCode=P
Slotted one:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...tor&perfCode=S
Drilled ones:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...tor&perfCode=S
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 334
Likes: 10
From: Northern California
2016 GLE300d 4Matic
Originally Posted by StapleGun
I would get OEM sensors..however, I would shop around for the actual pads front/rear. Padgid makes a good product and I have have had no problems with them on several different vehicles I have installed them in. It's a very easy job for a first time DIY project. Resurfacing is up to you, I have done it, but it's not essential. If you did not have any problems prior to the brake job, you should not have any vibration problems afterward. I have dealt with, not on MBs specifically, were having the rotors resurfaced actually exacerbated the warping on the rotors and actually made it worse - just for your 411.
The rears were impossible. The Ebrake off, in Neutral, little screw out and using a puller was no joy. I threw in pads and buttoned it up.
The factory pads work well but are dusty. Typically Pagid or Textar.
I see many posts talking about AXXIS pads as low priced and fairly dustless.
The fronts had sensors on the inner pad on both sides. In the rear, the single pin pads can support a sensor (with the right pads), but my 2000 E320 had no connector to support a sensor. autohausaz.com has all the parts and no shipping charge
Last edited by mjhawkins2346; Oct 27, 2005 at 01:12 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 405
Likes: 12
From: Sacramento, CA
W204 C300 2010
Yes, I forgot about this part. I didn't change my rear's yet, but for the front rotors, they were rusted on. Here is what I did:
a. Applied penetrating oil on the set screw, then waited about 20 minutes.
b. Used a socket wrench allen (hex) head on the set screw. The head still broke off.
c. Used a big hammer, 5-7lbs mini sledge hammer. Proceeded to hit near the lug bolt surfaces. I had to hit really hard. I mean real hard. Rotor finally broke free from the hub.
d. Removed the tread portion of the set screw with diagonal cutting pliers. Easy to come off once the rotor was removed.
e. Went to the stealer to get 2 set screws.
f Coated the inside of the brake rotor (new) with anti-seize paste along with the threaded hole for the set screw.
a. Applied penetrating oil on the set screw, then waited about 20 minutes.
b. Used a socket wrench allen (hex) head on the set screw. The head still broke off.
c. Used a big hammer, 5-7lbs mini sledge hammer. Proceeded to hit near the lug bolt surfaces. I had to hit really hard. I mean real hard. Rotor finally broke free from the hub.
d. Removed the tread portion of the set screw with diagonal cutting pliers. Easy to come off once the rotor was removed.
e. Went to the stealer to get 2 set screws.
f Coated the inside of the brake rotor (new) with anti-seize paste along with the threaded hole for the set screw.
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 212
Likes: 2
From: Maryland USA
2003 C230 Coupe
I would like to support Cody's suggestion. Replacing brake pads should be a simple job for many DIYers and there are plenty of aftermarket products available, some are better and some are probably worse than genuine MB parts. With one experience with the genuine parts, you will know what to expect next time.
Also, when you do it yourself, don't just replace the pads. Take off the rotors and take them to a local tire or a brake shop for resurfacing. It costs very little money but without it the brake may will squeak or the steering wheel may will vibrate.
Also, when you do it yourself, don't just replace the pads. Take off the rotors and take them to a local tire or a brake shop for resurfacing. It costs very little money but without it the brake may will squeak or the steering wheel may will vibrate.
This is utter non-sense. Besides adding unnecessary work/delays.
Keep the rotors in place. If you resurface you incur the risk of getting vibraion due to weakning thedisk thickness.
What better surfacing then the normal wear done by the orignal pads?
I have seen horror stories even on my own cars when smart mechanics resurface the rotors.
Normally a rotor should last 2 brake pads. I would'n';t use the rotors with holes, when replacing them, as they tend to crack .
Just use a regular good brand rotor.
As far as disk pads you can't beat the quality of the new Ceramic pads made by Akemoto. They are from Japan and used on Lexus and Toyota cars.
They make literraly no dust and stopping is very smooth.
While you have the wheels off, consider bleeding the brake fluid, if you know how, so as to remove bubles and old fluid. Start from RR/RL, FR/FL.
Have a great job.
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 212
Likes: 2
From: Maryland USA
2003 C230 Coupe
Look it up onlinedude.
The sensors are not an integral part of the sensors per say.
They come separately in a small plastic bag when you buy a pad made for a car that uses them.
My W210 uses 1 on each front wheel and one more on the back.
The sensor has a small rod that fits on a hole pre-drilled on the pad. As the pad wears it exposes the wires on the sensor which provide the signal for the computer to alert you when it is time to replace them.
There is usually 1 mm left on the pad whe that happens. So you don't have to rush in for service or DIY, but try doing within the next 1000 miles or earlier as you feel best at your own risk....
