Early W210 Blower Motor Regulator Replacement DIY Here...
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: Eureka Springs
2017 S550 A217,2006 SL500,2002 CLK430
For those who have a weak A/C blower that does not seem to change speed despite where you set the controls, here is a DIY to replace your Blower Motor Regulator.
At some point in the run of the W210, Mercedes-Benz decided to redesign the unreliable regulator. Unfortunately, the redesign included the entire blower assembly, so if you try to buy a replacement for the regulator from your dealer you will be sold a new blower assembly, a new housing, and the new regulator.
However, a former local wrench in the Atlanta area described adapting the blower motor regulator from a W140 (S-Class) to the early W210 (The later W210 has a totally redesigned part and only a new regulator is required if your part fails). Here is my interpretation of the adaptation:
First of all lets see where the part is located. Look under the passenger side footwell and look up. This is what you will see:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0900.JPG
Remove two phillips head screws and the cover can be pulled off toward the seat. With that cover off you will see the blower motor cover:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0871.JPG
Remove the five Torx screws(T-20 i believe) and you will expose the blower motor and harness near the corner to your right nearest you:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0895.JPG
Disconnect the harness by pulling apart. There was no locking mechanism that I could find. After releasing the harness, remove four torx screws(Same size as the cover) and the blower assembly will drop down. If you look up the void left by dropping the blower you will see your A/C filters. Check their condition and replace them if they look dirty at all. I had replaced mine recently and they still looked new:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0891.JPG
Take you blower assembly to your work table and you will see the blower motor regulator attached to the blower motor with two torx screws of the same size as all the others you removed earlier. Here is a picture of the old and new regulators. I purchased mine from http://www.autohausaz.com/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0874.JPG
Remove the two torx screws and cut your OLD harness right next to the OLD regulator. You will be cutting four wires: a thick black one, a thick blue one, and two thinner yellow and red ones:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0881.JPG
I stripped most of the black sheath covering the three wires on the OLD harness to give myself room to strip the insulation off of the three wires I will need to splice.
Next take your new harness and regulator. You can go ahead and connect the blue wire with the spade connector to the blower motor. You will need to remove the blue wire coming from the OLD harness from the motor to do this. Throw the old blue wire away. The OLD red wire attached to the blower motor will stay. This is what it will look like:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0883.JPG
Now cut the four wires going into the NEW harness connector(Cut the wires as far away from the new regulator as possible). Note that the blue one goes straight to the blower motor so it will not be cut. You will need to cut right next to the connector box in order to leave enough wire to splice to the OLD harness. When you cut the four wires, you can discard the thick red wire. The other three wires will be spliced to the three wires (black,yellow and red) from the OLD harness. Here's how i spliced and soddered mine:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0886.JPG
I then taped each wire with electrical tape, put a very thin coat of the included dielectric grease to the new regulator, and mounted the new regulator with the two new torx screws supplied with the new harness:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0888.JPG
I then installed it under the dash in reverse order and started the car up. Woo hoo! It worked. Lots of $$$ saved.
At some point in the run of the W210, Mercedes-Benz decided to redesign the unreliable regulator. Unfortunately, the redesign included the entire blower assembly, so if you try to buy a replacement for the regulator from your dealer you will be sold a new blower assembly, a new housing, and the new regulator.
However, a former local wrench in the Atlanta area described adapting the blower motor regulator from a W140 (S-Class) to the early W210 (The later W210 has a totally redesigned part and only a new regulator is required if your part fails). Here is my interpretation of the adaptation:
First of all lets see where the part is located. Look under the passenger side footwell and look up. This is what you will see:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0900.JPG
Remove two phillips head screws and the cover can be pulled off toward the seat. With that cover off you will see the blower motor cover:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0871.JPG
Remove the five Torx screws(T-20 i believe) and you will expose the blower motor and harness near the corner to your right nearest you:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0895.JPG
Disconnect the harness by pulling apart. There was no locking mechanism that I could find. After releasing the harness, remove four torx screws(Same size as the cover) and the blower assembly will drop down. If you look up the void left by dropping the blower you will see your A/C filters. Check their condition and replace them if they look dirty at all. I had replaced mine recently and they still looked new:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0891.JPG
Take you blower assembly to your work table and you will see the blower motor regulator attached to the blower motor with two torx screws of the same size as all the others you removed earlier. Here is a picture of the old and new regulators. I purchased mine from http://www.autohausaz.com/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0874.JPG
Remove the two torx screws and cut your OLD harness right next to the OLD regulator. You will be cutting four wires: a thick black one, a thick blue one, and two thinner yellow and red ones:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0881.JPG
I stripped most of the black sheath covering the three wires on the OLD harness to give myself room to strip the insulation off of the three wires I will need to splice.
Next take your new harness and regulator. You can go ahead and connect the blue wire with the spade connector to the blower motor. You will need to remove the blue wire coming from the OLD harness from the motor to do this. Throw the old blue wire away. The OLD red wire attached to the blower motor will stay. This is what it will look like:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0883.JPG
Now cut the four wires going into the NEW harness connector(Cut the wires as far away from the new regulator as possible). Note that the blue one goes straight to the blower motor so it will not be cut. You will need to cut right next to the connector box in order to leave enough wire to splice to the OLD harness. When you cut the four wires, you can discard the thick red wire. The other three wires will be spliced to the three wires (black,yellow and red) from the OLD harness. Here's how i spliced and soddered mine:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0886.JPG
I then taped each wire with electrical tape, put a very thin coat of the included dielectric grease to the new regulator, and mounted the new regulator with the two new torx screws supplied with the new harness:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0888.JPG
I then installed it under the dash in reverse order and started the car up. Woo hoo! It worked. Lots of $$$ saved.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
1997 e-320
BLOWER REGULATOR VOLTAGE MEASUREMENT
Excellent DIY write-up… 
thought about doing one myself after all the research i’ve done on this fix… i didn’t really find a detailed "how-to" with pictures (although a couple of members claimed they would do one)… so i had plans to do it when my part arrives… now i won’t have too…
i tore my regulator out last week to test it and discovered it’s only putting out 3.2 volts… working spec should be at 0.8 volts low to 6.0 volts high… and you can’t fix the regulator…
do to it being a “potted” module (sealed components)… the only fix is to replace the thing and your instructions do the job…
like you… i searched the web and found autohausaz.com to be the lowest priced supplier (and i must say excellent service) with two manufacturers: Kaehler (KAE) #1408218351 at $163.63 and Behr # 1408218451 at $214.79...
i ordered the more expensive unit by Behr (Germany) because i was told the less expensive version from KAE is made in France and does not hold up as well… although… i do believe they may have since modified the heat sink from the original version (notice it’s thicker) and even they’re model works better then what was originally used in the E-class… (which i believe they supplied as well).
anyhow… great job… this fix should be of use to a lot of people… since it’s a common problem…
my boss noticed what i was doing and asked if i would check his ‘97 E320... and i found it to be weak as well… it’s the same as mine… only 3 volts… blowing at half speed even though the controller say's max... looks like i’ll be doing two conversions.
thanks again,
~ Mr. B ~
thought about doing one myself after all the research i’ve done on this fix… i didn’t really find a detailed "how-to" with pictures (although a couple of members claimed they would do one)… so i had plans to do it when my part arrives… now i won’t have too…
i tore my regulator out last week to test it and discovered it’s only putting out 3.2 volts… working spec should be at 0.8 volts low to 6.0 volts high… and you can’t fix the regulator…
do to it being a “potted” module (sealed components)… the only fix is to replace the thing and your instructions do the job…like you… i searched the web and found autohausaz.com to be the lowest priced supplier (and i must say excellent service) with two manufacturers: Kaehler (KAE) #1408218351 at $163.63 and Behr # 1408218451 at $214.79...
i ordered the more expensive unit by Behr (Germany) because i was told the less expensive version from KAE is made in France and does not hold up as well… although… i do believe they may have since modified the heat sink from the original version (notice it’s thicker) and even they’re model works better then what was originally used in the E-class… (which i believe they supplied as well).
anyhow… great job… this fix should be of use to a lot of people… since it’s a common problem…
my boss noticed what i was doing and asked if i would check his ‘97 E320... and i found it to be weak as well… it’s the same as mine… only 3 volts… blowing at half speed even though the controller say's max... looks like i’ll be doing two conversions.
thanks again,
~ Mr. B ~
I seem to have the same problem; not enough air even when the climate controlunit stays at full speed. I am going to do the W140 regulator change this week. I would like to do the voltage test you did. Could you please explain in detail how you checked the voltage reaching the motor at diffrent speed control settings. That would be very interesting test and and it nails the porblem.
Thanks.
Joe.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 45
Likes: 1
From: Gretna, LA
2008 E350 Sport/2016 E350
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
1999 e300 td
importec has a much cheaper s class w140 regulator
Thank-you very much for taking the time to inform us of this work-around. it saved me a bundle of money and works great. too bad the dealers don't tell us about this!!!
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
1997 e-320
YOUR SOLUTION FOR THE BLOWER REGULATOR WAS SIMPLY AMAZINGLY EASY AND PERFECT FOR ME. IT APPEARS COMPLICATED WHEN YOU READ ALL THE STEPS BUT WHEN YOU GET TO DO IT ONE BY ONE IT IS SO SIMPLE. MINE IS WORKING PERFECT IS I GOT THE AIR FLOW I NEVER HAD.
ANY ONE CAN DO IT WITH KNOWLEDGE OF SOLDERING. SO ANY ONE WAITING TO DO THIS MOD, PLEASE GO AHEAD, IT IS SIMPLER THAN IT LOOKS.
THANKS TONY ONECE AGAIN.
ANY ONE CAN DO IT WITH KNOWLEDGE OF SOLDERING. SO ANY ONE WAITING TO DO THIS MOD, PLEASE GO AHEAD, IT IS SIMPLER THAN IT LOOKS.
THANKS TONY ONECE AGAIN.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
'97 E320 '97 AMG C280
I've had the regulator proble for a while. I think it progressively got worse, if that's possible.
I could live with it over the summer, but being in Canada, I figured I better fix it before winter, or I could be scraping my windows on the inside the way I did with an old VW Beetle about 35 years ago!
Anyway, after reading the thread, I was convinced this was the problem I was experiencing.
I called my local dealer and even the S Class regulator (part only) was going to be about $600. I didn't even bother asking what the E class regulator/blower combo would be but I assume in the $1000 - $1200 range. I'd love to know.
So, I ordered the S class regulator from the Arizona company listed in some of the forum messages.
It currently cost $237 and being I'm in Canada I got hit for about $30 in taxes in Canada as well.
I don't consider myself particularly handy, but I followed the instructions to a T and "voila"!!! it worked like a champ.
It probably took me a total of 1 - 1 1/2 hours and I probably saved $1000 or more compared to the parts and labour if I took it in to the dealer.
Not only that... I am a HERO to my wife, and am feeling very accomplished.
Thanks to MB World, and the BNG1959 for MAKING MY WEEKEND!
I could live with it over the summer, but being in Canada, I figured I better fix it before winter, or I could be scraping my windows on the inside the way I did with an old VW Beetle about 35 years ago!
Anyway, after reading the thread, I was convinced this was the problem I was experiencing.
I called my local dealer and even the S Class regulator (part only) was going to be about $600. I didn't even bother asking what the E class regulator/blower combo would be but I assume in the $1000 - $1200 range. I'd love to know.
So, I ordered the S class regulator from the Arizona company listed in some of the forum messages.
It currently cost $237 and being I'm in Canada I got hit for about $30 in taxes in Canada as well.
I don't consider myself particularly handy, but I followed the instructions to a T and "voila"!!! it worked like a champ.
It probably took me a total of 1 - 1 1/2 hours and I probably saved $1000 or more compared to the parts and labour if I took it in to the dealer.
Not only that... I am a HERO to my wife, and am feeling very accomplished.
Thanks to MB World, and the BNG1959 for MAKING MY WEEKEND!
Last edited by batman54; Oct 2, 2010 at 03:01 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2001 E320 4MATIC
Does 2001 E320 have the updated blower/regulator?
I am considering purchasing a 2001 E320 4MATIC. On the test drive I noticed that in "AUTO" mode, the speed of the blower motor kept fluctuating noticeably. I assume that it needs to have the regulator replaced as discussed in this thread, though I didn't see much discussion on fluctuating blower speeds; only poor blower speed in AUTO setting.
Can anyone tell me if this model is considered a later W210 that would have the updated blower/regulator assembly.
A quick google search seems to show me that I can get either the S Class or E class regulator for under $75. Does that seem right? Many posts in this thread discuss the price of replacement regulators at more than $150 or even more than $200, but they are very old posts.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken
Can anyone tell me if this model is considered a later W210 that would have the updated blower/regulator assembly.
A quick google search seems to show me that I can get either the S Class or E class regulator for under $75. Does that seem right? Many posts in this thread discuss the price of replacement regulators at more than $150 or even more than $200, but they are very old posts.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: SF Bay Area
1998 E300 TD
Blower working again
Have to say thank you for Tony again. He posted the original fix back in 2001! Hope he comes back to this forum from time to time.
I bought the regulator from Importec for $80.-. The connector is actually the same so I plugged it in to make sure the part works prior to finalize the cable switching portion. Te blower is working again
.
I bought the regulator from Importec for $80.-. The connector is actually the same so I plugged it in to make sure the part works prior to finalize the cable switching portion. Te blower is working again
.
Last edited by Hikingmapa; Oct 17, 2010 at 03:22 PM. Reason: typo
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 619
Likes: 5
Worked great. Bought the part from FCP Groton. $50.99. 1 year warranty. Sent to Canada no problems. I would use a connector on the large black wire....to hard to solder. Hard to get enough heat into it and I'm using a 140 watt soldering iron. The other 2 are easy. Use heat shrink if you can on all three. Remember to put it on BEFORE you solder the wires together.
Last edited by Brian McL; Nov 1, 2010 at 06:18 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
e320
Hi Tony, great post.
I have a weak A/C blower situation too. But it change the speed when I set the controls, today i changed the cabin filters ( they were really dirty ) and it blows better , but just a little bit . should I change Blower Motor Regulator only, or maybe is the whole Blower Motor weak?
Thanks
I have a weak A/C blower situation too. But it change the speed when I set the controls, today i changed the cabin filters ( they were really dirty ) and it blows better , but just a little bit . should I change Blower Motor Regulator only, or maybe is the whole Blower Motor weak?
Thanks
Last edited by chivijash; Dec 7, 2010 at 03:34 PM. Reason: ...
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
e320
heat
I also have a 99 e320 with no heat, i order the replacement regulator and modified as the instructions show, everything looked great!! reinstalled it back in the car and turned it on the test and it worked but only for about 15 min then it went out.
the part i purchased was on of off brands on ebay, i connected a power source to the motor and it turns. so i checked all my connections again but still it will not work when connected in the car. also nothing look burnt or damaged in any way not even the plastic clips. I think it may just be a bad ebay part but i saw several post on there where people had success with using them.
is there anything else i can check or do before ordering another regulator
the part i purchased was on of off brands on ebay, i connected a power source to the motor and it turns. so i checked all my connections again but still it will not work when connected in the car. also nothing look burnt or damaged in any way not even the plastic clips. I think it may just be a bad ebay part but i saw several post on there where people had success with using them.
is there anything else i can check or do before ordering another regulator
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
E320
For those who have a weak A/C blower that does not seem to change speed despite where you set the controls, here is a DIY to replace your Blower Motor Regulator.
At some point in the run of the W210, Mercedes-Benz decided to redesign the unreliable regulator. Unfortunately, the redesign included the entire blower assembly, so if you try to buy a replacement for the regulator from your dealer you will be sold a new blower assembly, a new housing, and the new regulator.
However, a former local wrench in the Atlanta area described adapting the blower motor regulator from a W140 (S-Class) to the early W210 (The later W210 has a totally redesigned part and only a new regulator is required if your part fails). Here is my interpretation of the adaptation:
First of all lets see where the part is located. Look under the passenger side footwell and look up. This is what you will see:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0900.JPG
Remove two phillips head screws and the cover can be pulled off toward the seat. With that cover off you will see the blower motor cover:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0871.JPG
Remove the five Torx screws(T-20 i believe) and you will expose the blower motor and harness near the corner to your right nearest you:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0895.JPG
Disconnect the harness by pulling apart. There was no locking mechanism that I could find. After releasing the harness, remove four torx screws(Same size as the cover) and the blower assembly will drop down. If you look up the void left by dropping the blower you will see your A/C filters. Check their condition and replace them if they look dirty at all. I had replaced mine recently and they still looked new:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0891.JPG
Take you blower assembly to your work table and you will see the blower motor regulator attached to the blower motor with two torx screws of the same size as all the others you removed earlier. Here is a picture of the old and new regulators. I purchased mine from http://www.autohausaz.com/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0874.JPG
Remove the two torx screws and cut your OLD harness right next to the OLD regulator. You will be cutting four wires: a thick black one, a thick blue one, and two thinner yellow and red ones:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0881.JPG
I stripped most of the black sheath covering the three wires on the OLD harness to give myself room to strip the insulation off of the three wires I will need to splice.
Next take your new harness and regulator. You can go ahead and connect the blue wire with the spade connector to the blower motor. You will need to remove the blue wire coming from the OLD harness from the motor to do this. Throw the old blue wire away. The OLD red wire attached to the blower motor will stay. This is what it will look like:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0883.JPG
Now cut the four wires going into the NEW harness connector(Cut the wires as far away from the new regulator as possible). Note that the blue one goes straight to the blower motor so it will not be cut. You will need to cut right next to the connector box in order to leave enough wire to splice to the OLD harness. When you cut the four wires, you can discard the thick red wire. The other three wires will be spliced to the three wires (black,yellow and red) from the OLD harness. Here's how i spliced and soddered mine:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0886.JPG
I then taped each wire with electrical tape, put a very thin coat of the included dielectric grease to the new regulator, and mounted the new regulator with the two new torx screws supplied with the new harness:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0888.JPG
I then installed it under the dash in reverse order and started the car up. Woo hoo! It worked. Lots of $$$ saved.
At some point in the run of the W210, Mercedes-Benz decided to redesign the unreliable regulator. Unfortunately, the redesign included the entire blower assembly, so if you try to buy a replacement for the regulator from your dealer you will be sold a new blower assembly, a new housing, and the new regulator.
However, a former local wrench in the Atlanta area described adapting the blower motor regulator from a W140 (S-Class) to the early W210 (The later W210 has a totally redesigned part and only a new regulator is required if your part fails). Here is my interpretation of the adaptation:
First of all lets see where the part is located. Look under the passenger side footwell and look up. This is what you will see:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0900.JPG
Remove two phillips head screws and the cover can be pulled off toward the seat. With that cover off you will see the blower motor cover:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0871.JPG
Remove the five Torx screws(T-20 i believe) and you will expose the blower motor and harness near the corner to your right nearest you:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0895.JPG
Disconnect the harness by pulling apart. There was no locking mechanism that I could find. After releasing the harness, remove four torx screws(Same size as the cover) and the blower assembly will drop down. If you look up the void left by dropping the blower you will see your A/C filters. Check their condition and replace them if they look dirty at all. I had replaced mine recently and they still looked new:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0891.JPG
Take you blower assembly to your work table and you will see the blower motor regulator attached to the blower motor with two torx screws of the same size as all the others you removed earlier. Here is a picture of the old and new regulators. I purchased mine from http://www.autohausaz.com/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0874.JPG
Remove the two torx screws and cut your OLD harness right next to the OLD regulator. You will be cutting four wires: a thick black one, a thick blue one, and two thinner yellow and red ones:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0881.JPG
I stripped most of the black sheath covering the three wires on the OLD harness to give myself room to strip the insulation off of the three wires I will need to splice.
Next take your new harness and regulator. You can go ahead and connect the blue wire with the spade connector to the blower motor. You will need to remove the blue wire coming from the OLD harness from the motor to do this. Throw the old blue wire away. The OLD red wire attached to the blower motor will stay. This is what it will look like:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0883.JPG
Now cut the four wires going into the NEW harness connector(Cut the wires as far away from the new regulator as possible). Note that the blue one goes straight to the blower motor so it will not be cut. You will need to cut right next to the connector box in order to leave enough wire to splice to the OLD harness. When you cut the four wires, you can discard the thick red wire. The other three wires will be spliced to the three wires (black,yellow and red) from the OLD harness. Here's how i spliced and soddered mine:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0886.JPG
I then taped each wire with electrical tape, put a very thin coat of the included dielectric grease to the new regulator, and mounted the new regulator with the two new torx screws supplied with the new harness:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/i...l/IMG_0888.JPG
I then installed it under the dash in reverse order and started the car up. Woo hoo! It worked. Lots of $$$ saved.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, Ca
2008 BMW 750LI, 1997 MBZ E320
Another Successful Application 1997 E320
Thanks to this great forum, I was able to fix it in less than 30 min once I had the part in hand. The beauty was in the part itself. I was a little hesitant to cut the wires and splice, but was going to do it anyway.
I was able to find a Bosch part sold by bmaparts.com. It came with two sets of cables. A short for the original S model application and a long version that fit my 1997 E320 perfect. Looks like they figured out what people were doing! Here is the part number on their website #BSH028373. Got it for $109 ($120 w/tax in CA), and BOSCH!
The pictures on the website do not show both sets of cables, I found out upon opening the box. I should have taken pics to post on here.
So no need to cut, all plug n play!
I was able to find a Bosch part sold by bmaparts.com. It came with two sets of cables. A short for the original S model application and a long version that fit my 1997 E320 perfect. Looks like they figured out what people were doing! Here is the part number on their website #BSH028373. Got it for $109 ($120 w/tax in CA), and BOSCH!
The pictures on the website do not show both sets of cables, I found out upon opening the box. I should have taken pics to post on here.
So no need to cut, all plug n play!
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 70
Likes: 3
From: SW FL
2000 E 430
Blower Motor Regulator
I took my 00 e430 out the other day after having it stored most of the winter. I put the the climate control on auto, 75 degrees. It was around 40 outside. I noticed that after the interior had warmed up, the blower fan was pulsating, the indicator on the climate control read 3 bars. Do you think the regulator is going or something else. I can put the fan on manual high or defrost and it works strongly. Thanks for any inputs.
Last edited by Wess; Feb 22, 2011 at 06:40 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 45
Likes: 1
From: Gretna, LA
2008 E350 Sport/2016 E350
Blower Regulator Replacement
Thanks to Tony for the DIY. It certainly took more than 30 minutes from start to finish, but not by terribly much. I also changed the cabin filters and charcoal filters while I was doing this. Cost for W140 regulator was $69.95from Importec.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
1967 250sl, 1998 E320
Blower VR now Alternator VR?
Thanks to this thread I performed the w140 to w210 A/C voltage regulator transplant and I have working climate control in my 98 E320 again!
However, the next day, I got a battery warning light. Diagnostics indeed show voltage at around 11.5 at idle. The car does have over 230k and is probably running the original alternator. Battery is less than a year old. So it is quite likely that I need to put in a reman alternator or at least a new VR and brushes into the existing alternator.
But I am suspicious of the timing. Could I have done something during my blower regulator repair to cause the low voltage readings triggering my battery warning light? Too much heat during soldering?
Thanks for anyone's input.
However, the next day, I got a battery warning light. Diagnostics indeed show voltage at around 11.5 at idle. The car does have over 230k and is probably running the original alternator. Battery is less than a year old. So it is quite likely that I need to put in a reman alternator or at least a new VR and brushes into the existing alternator.
But I am suspicious of the timing. Could I have done something during my blower regulator repair to cause the low voltage readings triggering my battery warning light? Too much heat during soldering?
Thanks for anyone's input.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
'97 E300 & '89 190 D
Thanks HavanaJoe26, and all posters!
The dealer quoted $900. to replace the blower regulator ('97 E 300) two days ago. Checked the forums...ordered the replacement regulator for the "S" from mbaparts.com,
and all seems to be working fine. I can't thank you all enough!
and all seems to be working fine. I can't thank you all enough!
Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 190
Likes: 5
From: Mass
2011 S550
A/C fan not working
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I have a 2002 E430 Sport. For awhile the fan would race up and down, now it works when it wants to and can't regulate the fan speed. When it comes on it's high speed only.
The unit was charged a few months ago. Is it the fan regulator ? Can you buy just the regulator or do I need to use Tony's fix?
Thanks
I have a 2002 E430 Sport. For awhile the fan would race up and down, now it works when it wants to and can't regulate the fan speed. When it comes on it's high speed only.
The unit was charged a few months ago. Is it the fan regulator ? Can you buy just the regulator or do I need to use Tony's fix?
Thanks
