An Unbelievable Update
05-25-2007, 05:06 AM
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An Unbelievable Update
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Ok so if you read/responded to my post concerning BAS/ESP Failure Warning, then you know it was linked to the brake light failure. However the brake light failure was the mystery, well, until now.
It turns out that the head light switch (assembly) is the culprit in the brake light failure and not the brake light switch!!
So if any of you are experiencing a brake light failure after replacing the switch, or even before, check the head light switch (assembly)
The "Stealership" has quoted me $300.00 for this part. Do any of you have a better place to purchase the part?
2000 E55 AMG
P.S. I still don't understand why MB would link such an important System (ESP, BAS, ABS) to the brake lights or the head lights and their switches.
Ok so if you read/responded to my post concerning BAS/ESP Failure Warning, then you know it was linked to the brake light failure. However the brake light failure was the mystery, well, until now.
It turns out that the head light switch (assembly) is the culprit in the brake light failure and not the brake light switch!!
So if any of you are experiencing a brake light failure after replacing the switch, or even before, check the head light switch (assembly)
The "Stealership" has quoted me $300.00 for this part. Do any of you have a better place to purchase the part?2000 E55 AMG
P.S. I still don't understand why MB would link such an important System (ESP, BAS, ABS) to the brake lights or the head lights and their switches.
05-25-2007, 09:52 AM
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I was having problems with my Lamp Warnings and ended up swapping the headlight switch. I got one off of ebay from a seller who is known for parting out Benzes for $25. I swapped it out in about an hour and got rid of all of my lamp problems. I never heard that the faults you mentioned could be caused by the tail light lamp faults.
05-25-2007, 11:07 AM
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Dirt latemodel
Just wanted to ask, I do not have the BAS/ESP Failure Warning but sometimes I get the deffective bulb malfunction on my dash after using my brakes. When this happens I check them and it is the left rear that is giving me problems, but this is where it gets funny, the bulb is never bad and by simply removing and reinstalling it works again . So now I am thinking it is a bad connection but then the next time I had the malfunction come up I simply turned the car off and started it again and no more malfuntions, so now I am really confused. It does this at random , sometimes it may go two weeks without a malfuntion , sometimes a month but the bulb is never bad. Would this mean I also need to replace the headlight switch? Sorry for riding up in your post with my own questions just wanting to get some answers , maybe the same answer for both our problems.
05-25-2007, 11:30 AM
#4
E430,
I've got the same exact symptoms with my rear brake lamp except it is the right-hand side causing problems. One of the techs at the dealer told me that the bulb connectors corrode and go bad. The only way to resolve this problem is to replace them.
I've got the same exact symptoms with my rear brake lamp except it is the right-hand side causing problems. One of the techs at the dealer told me that the bulb connectors corrode and go bad. The only way to resolve this problem is to replace them.
05-25-2007, 02:39 PM
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Dirt latemodel
Thank you Ed, I will try to order a new connector , that can't set me back to much! sorry again to 1stbenz00e55 for jumping in your post with questions of my own, thought they could be related.
05-25-2007, 05:46 PM
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Dirt latemodel
I found this in another website forum and this guy had an extra set of brake light sockets which he had already replaced and did not fix the problem so he came up with this to fix it....................
Well I finally took the brute force approach to solving the Light Malfunction Annunciator/Pest.
I was having limited success cleaning the contacts on the light bulbs, the holders and even the contact surface on the conductor plate.
I determined that it was the stoplights that were the main offender. I suspect the contacts couldn't take the current or had high resistance, so I decided to create some jumpers to augment the circuit.
I haven't had the Annunciator complain for 2 months now -- so I think I can claim some degree of success.
Here's how I did it.
I soldered pigtails onto the end of the contacts in the light socket -- butt soldered, not drilled through.
The blades are a spring steel and don't drill easily, but they are tinned so it's easy to make a solid and strong butt joint ( and there isn't much space for anything else.
I tinned a pigtail with a very short stripping, and then put a dab of solder on the point of the blade that lines up with the holes I drilled in the holder. You need the short stripping to avoid a long un-insulated "neck" on your finished project - to short out.
I recommend pushing them out one at a time. Maybe it's just me - but I found them amazingly easy to get mixed up. They push out easily by depressing the locking tab and pushing them up. Remove the bulb first though. It was just easier to photograph this way.
After soldering on the pigtail, I threaded it down through the matching hole. I used a #27 drill, but anything around 3/32 or so should work.
I crimped on the fasteners afterwards.
The first version just had spade terminals at the end of the pigtails, and I drilled small holes in the conductive plate and screwed the terminals to the plate with small tapping screws ( #6 x 1/2" ). This next version has spade connectors so I can pull the holder out of the car without tools. The pigtails are long enough to change bulbs, though if you want to keep the work simpler.
Notice the marks along the edge of the holder lining up with the contacts. I found this helped with determining the exact portion of the conductor plate that matched up with the specific contact. It can get mixed up and the resultant short will eat fuses.
I drilled the holes in the plate without removing the assembly from the car, so I "submerged" my drill bit in the drill so it was less than 1/4" above the chuck face. This was done so the drill didn't suddenly fly through the plate and make unwanted holes in, say, the tail light lens, for example.
not sure if I could pull off this fix but sounds like the new sockets are not the fix either.
Well I finally took the brute force approach to solving the Light Malfunction Annunciator/Pest.
I was having limited success cleaning the contacts on the light bulbs, the holders and even the contact surface on the conductor plate.
I determined that it was the stoplights that were the main offender. I suspect the contacts couldn't take the current or had high resistance, so I decided to create some jumpers to augment the circuit.
I haven't had the Annunciator complain for 2 months now -- so I think I can claim some degree of success.
Here's how I did it.
I soldered pigtails onto the end of the contacts in the light socket -- butt soldered, not drilled through.
The blades are a spring steel and don't drill easily, but they are tinned so it's easy to make a solid and strong butt joint ( and there isn't much space for anything else.
I tinned a pigtail with a very short stripping, and then put a dab of solder on the point of the blade that lines up with the holes I drilled in the holder. You need the short stripping to avoid a long un-insulated "neck" on your finished project - to short out.
I recommend pushing them out one at a time. Maybe it's just me - but I found them amazingly easy to get mixed up. They push out easily by depressing the locking tab and pushing them up. Remove the bulb first though. It was just easier to photograph this way.
After soldering on the pigtail, I threaded it down through the matching hole. I used a #27 drill, but anything around 3/32 or so should work.
I crimped on the fasteners afterwards.
The first version just had spade terminals at the end of the pigtails, and I drilled small holes in the conductive plate and screwed the terminals to the plate with small tapping screws ( #6 x 1/2" ). This next version has spade connectors so I can pull the holder out of the car without tools. The pigtails are long enough to change bulbs, though if you want to keep the work simpler.
Notice the marks along the edge of the holder lining up with the contacts. I found this helped with determining the exact portion of the conductor plate that matched up with the specific contact. It can get mixed up and the resultant short will eat fuses.
I drilled the holes in the plate without removing the assembly from the car, so I "submerged" my drill bit in the drill so it was less than 1/4" above the chuck face. This was done so the drill didn't suddenly fly through the plate and make unwanted holes in, say, the tail light lens, for example.
not sure if I could pull off this fix but sounds like the new sockets are not the fix either.
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05-26-2007, 07:33 PM
#8
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The connectors corrode? What the hell is that stuff made of? Weak aluminum? My right rear running light is plagued by occasional outtages too. Bumping the assembly with the palm of my hand usually gets it to come back on. But damn, socket technology isn't exactly something new.
