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About to do a front brake job

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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 11:51 PM
  #1  
cadster's Avatar
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Question About to do a front brake job

Hi. I'm new to this forum and would really appreciate some information if anyone can help. I own a 1997 E320 and am about to do a front brake job this weekend. I have printed out a great description of the whole process from one of the posts I found on the forum. I have the new Brembo rotors and OE pads and new sensors I was able to buy locally and am all set to do the job this weekend. The only thing I'm missing is what the torque specifications are for the bolts holding the caliper bracket on, the torx head bolts holding the caliper itself in place, and the wheel lug bolts. Are these listed anywhere that I can easily reference online, or does someone out there have a manual that lists these and would be willing to share this info with a "newbie"?
I would really appreciate the help on this one. The MBZ dealership sevice guy who was only happy to arrange service on my car only five or six weeks ago to the tune of almost $3000, didn't bother to keep his promise to call me back to answer these questions for me today! I guess he doesn't make a comission on free information. I guess it didn't occur to him that I might consider having work done there in the future. I'm going to try to avoid the dealership at almost all cost from here on out. (and will call and let them know what a "nice guy" the personal rep was Monday morning.)

Thanks in advance for anyone giving me a little help on this!

Don Cadillac
cadster@comcast.net
E320 1997 - my first Benz
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 12:36 AM
  #2  
loubapache's Avatar
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From: Western Michigan
2003 E320 4Matic Wagon & 1997 E320
Brake Front Caliper Carrier Bolt: 115 m-N; 85 ft-lb
Brake Front Caliper Guide Pin Bolt: 35 m-N; 26 ft-lb
Brake Rear Caliper Carrier Bolt: 50 m-N; 37 ft-lb
Lug bolts: 110 m-N; 80 ft-lb
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 09:32 AM
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Thumbs up Wow!

Thanks much for the fast response, loubapache!! I wasn't expecting anything so soon.
THIS FORUM ROCKS!!!!!

....Maybe you know something about a dim digital clock display??? Anything I can do about that? The clock works fine, just only visible when it's dark outside as its' lighting is nowhere near as bright as the odometer and such.
????
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 06:43 PM
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(I have printed out a great description of the whole process from one of the posts I found on the forum)

Cadster: (1) How do you know that your problem is a front or back brake ? (2) Is it possible that when you replace pads/rotors/sensors you take pictures of each steps and show us how it done? it would be very helpful for all of us. Thanks
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 06:48 PM
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From: NW Chicago suburbs
'09 CLK550 & 2012 E350
Before you install the new rotors, apply some high temp anti-seize paste on the mating surfaces. Should you need to pull the rotors some time in the future, the anti-seize paste could save you a lot of frustration.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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From: Long Island, NY
2004 E320
Originally Posted by Wadster
Before you install the new rotors, apply some high temp anti-seize paste on the mating surfaces. Should you need to pull the rotors some time in the future, the anti-seize paste could save you a lot of frustration.
+1 to that as well as "brake paste" to the contact surfaces of the pistons to prevent squeaking.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 09:43 AM
  #7  
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Thanks to all you guys!

Thanks for the help! It's too late to take pictures, already did the job using the info I got here. Went pretty smoothly once I figured out where to smack the first rotor with my "strong persuader". I was getting frustrated as the first one probably took me 20 minutes of WD40 and grunting before I smacked it just right. Once it started to move it only took a couple light taps. The other rotor came off in a jiffy using the same method. Too late for anti-seize paste, but was sure to use CRC brand anti-squeal compound. It's good stuff in my experience. Gotta go. Thanks again!!
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 11:19 AM
  #8  
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From: NW Chicago suburbs
'09 CLK550 & 2012 E350
Originally Posted by cadster
Went pretty smoothly once I figured out where to smack the first rotor with my "strong persuader". I was getting frustrated as the first one probably took me 20 minutes of WD40 and grunting before I smacked it just right.
I bet you'd have appreciated it had someone else applied the anti-seize paste!

Actually, I use it on my wheels too. It ensures that a "simple" job is simple. There's nothing worse than tripling the time on a simple job because of galvanic corrosion.
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