seems like i'm constantly replacing the brake pads/discs on our Mercedes.

Can you guys advise if it's true that discs ALWAYS have to be replaced each time on these 2000+ MBs, vs. getting the rotors resurfaced and just getting new pads?

 

Replace rotors or turn them. With regards to Mercedes, I've discussed this at length with friends who are machinists as well as auto enthusiasts and the conclusion was either pure laziness or an unwillingness to deal with customer complaints about brake pulsing.

The common "reason" cited is that Mercedes uses soft steel for their rotors. That notion makes no sense at all. If that were the case, these things would just bend. Are people suggesting that rotor and steel technology is worse than decades previously?

Minimum thickness specs are clearly stated and are even stamped on the edge of the rotors. As long as turning them won't take the rotors below spec, it's perfectly fine.

Incidentally, I've replaced my pads rather infrequently. The aftermarket Porterfield pads have lasted a scary amount of time with no ill effects on the rotors.

 

anyone have suggestions in the SF Bay Area that are good at doing brakes w/o having to replace the discs/rotors each time? after all, there are many people who could just replace all the items, but seems like fewer people doing just pads and resurfacing rotors. i'm in SF or in the East Bay.

thx.

 

Somebody told that disks are cheap and you can neglect price of them. I would be interested in a dependable shop in SF BA too.

 

i usually get 2 to 3 sets of brake pads to 1 set of rotors. i do not turn them, i just replace the pads. if you have pulsating you will need to replace the rotors. you could try to turn them, but i've found 8 out of 10 times the pulsation will return. no pulsation and rotor thickness is ok=replace pads only. imho

 

Front discs are $65 and rears are $45. For the possible problems with reusing discs, it's really false economy. If you find that you need new discs after bedding in new pads, then you have to start over with new pads and discs. I would reserve the cheap ******* maintenance for a chevy.

 

where do you buy the $65 and $45 discs or rotors? OEM or aftermarket?
i seem to recall that they were usually $120 for fronts?

 

www.autohausaz.com


The suggestion about the economics of replacing them has some merit except for those who have already replaced them with high end aftermarket rotors. In any case, I don't see the point of tossing perfectly good rotors if all that's needed is a surface reconditioning.

 

A lot of firms make good after market rotors, in the uk we never skim them unless they are warped, they should see 2 sets of pads out.

I believe that you have the Green stuff pads, they are kind to the rotors and the wheels stay clean

 

Ok, so you pay $20 to turn the rotors, then you find that they are close or possibly below spec. Now you have to toss or risk warping the rotor long before the pads are gone. I can say that my front rotors had some pretty big grooves in them at 45k miles. I would agree that you should not turn the rotors, just replace the pads to save material, if you are going to reuse.

It's really not a safety issue, so take the risk, if you desire. The worse thing that can happen is buying another set of pads, so no biggie ($75).

Check: http://www.thebenzbin.com/ for parts also.

David

 

Christ almighty, if I measure them before turning and only have the shop take them down four thousandths, it's not that hard to ensure they remain within spec. The minimum machine-to specs for most rotors already includes a 30 to 60 thousandths safety margin. And this assumes the rotors even need turning at all.

 

sorry for being ignorant, but am i supposed to buy two fronts and two lefts, so that's about $230 in parts from online guys like autohauaz?

i'm thinking about just sticking on new pads and seeing if rotors are ok, but what's the deal w/ dust filter(or is that not related to brake job)? This lasted 33k miles and 2 yrs of surface street driving.

in summary, on my prior brake job, the mechanic charged me $750 for:
sensor $13 for 2
dust filter $27.50
PAD front, $78
Brake set, rear $80
part cleaner, $10 for two
...$270 for front/rear rotors
...and 4 hrs of labor.

p.s. haven't checked yet, but it could just be the fronts that need replacing - display just says pads and doesn't say front or rear.

 

Aren't the brakes composites and not "turnable?" In any case, if they're not out of spec and not out of round, there's no need to replace the rotors. Just slap the new pads and you'll be good to go.

 

A lot of folks do insall 2 or 3 sets of pads before junking the rotors. It's not uncommon.

ATE rotors aren't that expensive...check around. Brake service is really straightforward on these cars.

 

That sounds like tooooooo much $$$$$$$$$$$ How much do they charge per hr??? And 4hrs for a brake job sounds a bit too long to me.

I have had all rotors replaced and brakes and never paid nearly that much! I don't remember the exact price I paid I will have to look for the receipt....but if I'm not mistaken the rotors are like $80 bucks or less for 2....and my indie orders all my parts from mercedes.
My indie said that they replace the rotors if they are too low...but they can be resurfaced...

also because the parts-rotors,pads,sensors are not as expensive compared to other makes, they may sometimes replace them all......go figure....but the last time I had them done they resurfaced the rotors, changed pads in sensor etc....when I used to have a Acura Legend I think the rotors were like 180 or so, and my brake jobs were much more expensive than with the benz.

If you have a led foot, and do a lot of stop and go...you will run through brakes quicker!

 

I'm running those texstar pads and I seem to be burning thru the brakes and all the brake dust oh man that sucks. but I do have to admit the brakes work great. the other day I stopped on a dime and it gave me nine cents change.

 

i'm going to ask my indep shop to just "slap on" new pads and let's see what happens. it's been about 35k miles and 2.5 yrs since he did all 4 pads/discs.

how much should he charge for labor for putting on new pads?

p.s. the good news on my e320 cabriolet that had the brake lights on/off was apparently wiring harness. he's charging me $50 for 1 yr labor to fix...but i'm ok w/ that.

 

why just slap on?...you don't have to take off the rotors to have them mic'd. if your tech can't take off the wheel and tell you where you're at on thickness go to someone else. its simple stuff. if your rotors are under min thick they are considered unsafe. its good info to know instead of slap on and being in dark. if you're selling the car I guess its a whole different story. maybe that's why when I buy a used car first thing I do is put on new brakes just in case someone has just "slapped on" some pads. consider piston travel and pad distance. thin rotors surface would be farther from the pad.

 

sorry to imply slap on w/o inspecting rotors.
i was just quoting a previous post where someone used that word.
yes, we will definitely be checking the thickness.

it's interesing w/ our 95 E320 cabriolet, i examined the history for its entire 78k miles of service ad MB dealers, and even there they got about 3 sets of pads before replacing rotors. my gut feel is that MB might have changed their protocol because i also can't understand how the discs got weaker and wear faster when they changed the chasis for E class.

dropping the car off this am so will know soon enough.

 

just heard back from indep. mechanic re: brake pads - looks like the front's ok to just do pads and sensor w/o new brakes. the prior time was at 35k and 2.5 yrs ago...so i'm pretty happy w/ this results.

thx everyone for input that MBs do not always need new discs every single time of installing new pads.

p.s. on the other hand, my BMW guy saying that it always goes in pairs and that each time the discs are always below minimum thickness, thus new discs required.