Hey people I am a newbee and I really need some help with this one. Had bank 1 & 2 fuel trim errors. Cleaned MAF and was OK for awhile but problem returned. Replaced MAF and with the new one, could not give the engine any amount of gas or it would die out and engine light would come on with numerous codes. Re-installed the old MAF and now it is having similar problems. It will accelerate all the way through the rpm range as long as you do not use too much pedal. If you floor it, it dies out. I never had any driveability problems until I installed the new one. I am lost on this one, can somebody give some ideas?

 

make sure the tube after the maf between the maf and the intake is not kinked,unhooked,etc.air must be getting in some how. Check that you did not by mistake unplug a vac hose or that any are unhooked or broken.Do you have a code reader?$39 bucks at harbor freight tools.
what codes is it showing or has it stored?write them down,all of them and erase them.then go for a long drive and stop and read the codes again as soon as the light comes on.
report back,we will get to the solution...

 

in ref ohlord reply, checked pipes and lines and everything looks good. Installed new MAF, and took it out to test. didn't get a half of block when I tried to accelerate and it started stalling out like it had a lck of gas and the check engine light started flashing. read codes and got 304, 303, 300 or multiple cylinders misfiring. installed the old MAF, cleared codes and test drove. car will accelerate normal under partial pedal with slight mifires after 4 grand. If you floor it, it will accelerate to 4 grand and start dying out like being starved for gas. Checked codes, no codes. Want to thank you for your help, it is muchly appreciated.

 

cats,one might be plugged.You may need to get it on a scope to see what is going on real time with all the sensors.

clear those codes do it again and write down all the codes and report back.Flashing cel means imminent engine damage warning.so it may be going into limp mode which cuts power and gears so you need to limp home.
get those codes,post em

 

I know Ohlord hates when people say this....but after you install the new MAF, you may need to get the codes cleared by someone who has the star diagnostics software (i.e. benz dealer (dont kill me Ohlord) or a indy shop) A former MB mechanic told me that if you dont get the codes reset by SD then they can pop back up and the car will run like *** (not his exact words, he didnt curse). But you catch my drift.

 

wait, you didnt buy the Ebay MAF did you? Because people have been having lots of problems with those.

 

just a ploy to get you to the dealer for a reaming!!!!!!!!!!!
A. the code will clear itself
B. if you spend the $39 bucks at harbor freight tools for the centec obd reader
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals...4999/94169.pdf
you can erase the code,without waiting.
C.The ecu will learn the new values provided by the MAF and after several drive cycles adjust to the new voltages provided by the thermistor in the MAF.
D.If you clear the codes,the I/M readiness monitors are going to say not ready for the cats,the o2 sensors etc. and you wont be able to take a smog test until those rdive cycles have been completed and the I/M status says ready.The centec scanner shows you the I/M monitors.
E.If you installed a new MAF because you had a CEL and needed to take a smog test or failed one because the cel was on,and you don't want to wait for the several days of drive cycles,(that the dealer is going to bend you over for)
you can run the generic drive cycle program that is part of the OBD2 protocol.

The following “universal” drive cycle can be used as a guide to assist with re-setting monitors when a vehicle specific drive cycle cannot be located. This generic OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). This condition can be achieved by allowing the vehicle to “sit” overnight, and then by beginning the drive cycle the next day. Most drive cycles will be difficult to follow exactly under normal driving conditions, so the driver should exercise caution, road safety, and courtesy to others.
* Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
* Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
* Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
* Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch.
* Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
* Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
* Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.
F.It's a blast,rapping it out,way more funner then the dealers picking your pocket and it adapts the drive cycle and sets the I/M to ready state.
F.If you've been avoiding the easy r/r of the maf?(god forbid)or ignoring the cel for months,and drivability issues cropped up and you drove the car like granny,it will reset the transmission shift program after several dats of driving or you can do the fly by wire reset that is so very popular among the more experienced users of the forum.
G.40 years of working on all my cars from 1957 belairs,32 fords,34 fords,jags,cobra powered jags,bmw,mgb,mga,acuras ,vw,Ferrari's and on and on have taught me a lot,and the most important lesson..........If the dealer say it so,don't always mean it so......
H.Case over
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"

 

Well, I changed my MAF like 2 years ago and the check engine light came on and off every few months. Finally got sick of it and my mechanic told me that it wasnt an active code...but a stored one. Lol, Oh lord, know that im not trying to get into one of your anti-spending money arguments. Im just writing what i was told because of my own experiences. My OBD reader supposedly clears the code also, but it kept comming back up, thats why i posted. Im just trying to help another member out.

 

cleared code is a cleared code.Active or pending,if you clear it ,it is gone,unless the condition that caused it still exists.No matter what obd2 scanner you use,the $39 one or the $50000 one.I've done tons of them all makes and models,clear the codes adapt the system and no more lights............Other members install a new maf and don't even have a reader and the code clears and the car adapts,no more light.The pending codes(stored)Will by virtue of the engineering that went into the obd2 system,clear after several successful drive cycles.So either you reset the system incorrectly,or you never completed a complete proper drive cycle(after all who can blame you,how many times have you had the occasion to idle your car for 2.5 minutes with the a/c on and the rear window defroster on at the same time?).You choose which one.Either way it was not the star diagnostic scanner that was needed to do it...........

"GOT CODES?"
"FIX THE PROBLEM,NO MORE CODES"

 

hey what's the deal with that code reader?.....somebody keeps posting 39 BUCKS! 39 BUCKS!....I just went to harbor frieght yesterday and they want 79 BUCKS!..... the cheap one is 49 and the deluxe is 79.......same part number posted and everything. .....where do I get it for 39 bucks?......maybe they saw someone keep posting what a kick a$$ item this is and how it makes the whole world wonderful and decided to jack up the price ?.....anybody got a clue where I can get the deluxe one for 39 bucks?......or maybe its a OBD stock holder trying to get everyone into harbor frieght only to see the 79 dollar price tag and say "oh well I'm here already ill just pay the 79 duckettes" .....what am I doing wrong here?

 

$39 bucks reg $79 sometimes they have a sale (most of the time)and you get it at that price at the store.It is on sale on the web right now and i just last week helped a guy stranded with a cel on the east coast 1000 miles from home,he found a harbor freight tools and they sold him it for 39 bucks.And no i am not a stock holder,I use the stuff that they have for projects that require tools and such that you don't use that often,cable/chain cutter 10 bucks,sears or anyplace else 5 times as much.My regular tools I buy the best,I retired at 52, 5 years ago,can afford to have fun,however no need to buy a 300 dollar scanner when this little one does all we almost ever need.Next Will be the autotap pc reader.Which reminds me like the danielsternlighting web site that has so much free info on the science of automotive lighting, todays tip go to autotap .com and learn more then you ever thought you could about obd2 diagnostics,it taught me some new tricks That have been very helpful.
If you subscribe to the harbor freight sales flyer, about twice a month they send a coupon good for 15% off anything in the store so the obd gets even better.

cognomen,

"GOT CODES?"

 

good response ghost rider.....I'm just mesing with you.......thanks for the info.....I read your stuff.......I read about the guy 1000miles from home.....you got it going on......ill keep my eyes open and try to sneak up on one for 39....its not about finances...I just know the routinè (retail)

 

ok I was able to get them to match the internet price and picked up the scanner for 39 bucks. I will have to put it in my separate tool box that only houses my "made in china tools". just in case they leak lead or something, I don't want it getting all over my "Snap on tools". my check engine light has never came on yet but I want to be ready when, if it does, original low miles owner that sold it to me said its never been on. just seems like a fun gadget to have, what's that cd that comes with it about? do codes show up without the cel on? should I try it out? ......the car runs and drives perfect.

 

like a cel came on and the cause went away i.e. loose gas cap and then you filled it up and the gas cap got screwed on correctly,the light would go out but the code would be stored for several drive cycles,sort of a history of events black box,so that you or the shop could look at the stored code and say ah ha that was what the light was on for.
No worries of leaks,it is powered by the obd2 port under your dash when you plug it in.For 39 bucks or even more,handy to have even if you use it just once.You figure out it is a code you post the code on the forum,we tell you a solution you fix it and save 100's of dollars or more,Priceless!!!!!!!
If you don't use it some fair maiden will come a callen with a cel on someday and you can turn off her light.It happens........


I keep mine stored in the spare tire well along with the road flare,jumper cables and fire ext. just in case I need to help someone out in and emergency.

 

Ill keep it in my spare tire well also......ill just put it in a bag.still concerned about the lead thing. maybe the plastic has lead or something. I just don't trust anything made in china other than pork fried rice. and what about that harbor frieght?.....what a china outlet. made me feel like I just walked into a made in china flea market. I mean this scanner is alright, simple enough but most of the stuff I looked at was cheese quality. I would have a hard time spending 100bucks there.

 

Any tool with complexity pretty much sucks from HF, but you do find some really good, cheap stuff as well. Mostly the Pittsburgh products, like impact sockets, pry bars, picks, magnet trays, drop lights, hydraulic press and pneumatic angle grinders. I had an engine hoist that was good and I use their ATV jack for removing my Porsche motor. They also carry the 6000lb scissor lift a lot of people buy from various resellers (I have one). I can't tell you how long I've been using my $3.00 multimeter! So, if it looks and feels really cheap and you need it for an important job (wrenches, impacts and drill type tools will probably break after a couple uses) then don't buy it. But, shop there a little bit and look at their flyers and you will find some good/cheap tools.

 

kids or need a gift for a kid and they are old enough to use it,you can pick up some nice RC planes,helicopters,etc. for 10-25 bucks,they are fun,really fly well,and are replaceable if they crash.

the rotary buffer is also a good buy for the diy detailer.Buy some good pads at the auto body supply store and some menzerna.and that old benz will look like a show car.

 

Tried ohlord's procedure. installed new maf and reset computer by removing power. used his procedure and it refused to remap, giving me codes 300,304, 306,170 and 173. car would starve and die out with any amount of acceleration. reinstalled old maf and performed procedure again and remapped fine. Took new maf back to Kragen and had them reorder another one. Will try again once I receive it. The scanner I have is a KAL equipment OBDII scanner. Would like to know your opinion on this reader. Sorry I haven't been able to get back to you sooner, but this is the first opportunity I have had to work on it. I greatly appreciate your help with this one.

 

Maf and clear the codes with the erase function on the obd2 scanner,I hardly ever rec disc power as a means to reset the cel,that will clear the lights but pending codes will sometimes remain stored.Kraggen?for a maf?No,No........autohausaz.com germanstar.net for the insert,Kraggens?Probably not even bosch unit.Take it back and order oem from one of the above,a proven supplier.
Then do the r/r and erase the codes and go on the generic drive cycle run.

you still have multiple misfires on bank 2,clean the injectors with a can of seafoam or techron injector cleaner in the fuel tank,check the wires are firmly pushed onto cylinders 4 and 6,get a shop stethoscope at kraggens and listen to the injectors on those two cylinders to hear if they are buzzin and clickin like the others.

 

Yeah like ohlord said, if you remove power the codes can still be stored. Not to mention trip out many other sensors around the car too. The codes need to be properly removed. Im sure ohlord knows how to remove them for free or for under $5. lol

 

received new maf,installed, reset codes and followed ohlords procedure. Remapped fine and car runs great. Sure am greatful for all the help. Thanks.

 

Victory over the dealer
Good job!!!!
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"

 

Just got the new HF sale catalog. the cen-tech obdII reader is on sale for 39.99.

 

change the title of this thread to
New maf works great

 

Hi ,

Can you 'spin over' to the ML(163) section - see my post there about a gear change/Rpm prb......stealership recommended a new MAF?

Thanks in advance.
Cheers
MJ