AC Problems
When it was really hot, in the upper 90's, I turned on the air conditioner and after a few minutes, you know how in the center, there are 2 vents - the vent near the driver side blows warm air (seriously, I kept putting my hand in front of it and it would not get cold) and the vent on the passenger side blows cool (not cold) air. The side vents blow cool (not cold) air. Is this weird or what?
I also don't feel the icy coldness that I remember from previous air conditioner uses.. it gets "cool" but not cold.
This is the first time I have done a recharge at a non-dealer place - could that be a problem - maybe they don't know how to check all the a/c components?
http://www.eclassbenz.com/node/27
then do this....
http://www.eclassbenz.com/acdiag
then post results. (hey, are you reading MBWorld at work??!!)

duh...you said you'd code check later. the dissimilar temperature would have
me guessing duo-valve as a first, easy fix/cleaning. tap on these canisters
lightly with, say, screwdriver handle and see if it helps to dislodge any light
sticking. if not, then it may need to be removed and cleaned. the latter would
probably be beyond your level of comfort so maybe your indy can do. degree of
difficulty is a low 1 (out of 5 being difficult)
Last edited by raymond g-; Jul 25, 2008 at 03:46 PM.
http://www.eclassbenz.com/node/27
then do this....
http://www.eclassbenz.com/acdiag
then post results. (hey, are you reading MBWorld at work??!!)

duh...you said you'd code check later. the dissimilar temperature would have
me guessing duo-valve as a first, easy fix/cleaning. tap on these canisters
lightly with, say, screwdriver handle and see if it helps to dislodge any light
sticking. if not, then it may need to be removed and cleaned. the latter would
probably be beyond your level of comfort so maybe your indy can do. degree of
difficulty is a low 1 (out of 5 being difficult)

I'll check out that duo-valve thingy when I get home. And also run the code check.
Thanks, R !
I ran the check and these are the results.# Your refrigerant temperature sensor indicates 141 degrees, which is warmer than the outside air. This is good. When the refrigerant is warmer than the outside air, it can transfer heat out of the car. This means that your A/C is working -- but just barely. This is a sign of low refrigerant rather than something more serious like total compressor failure (although your compressor may be leaking!).
# Often you can tell you're low on refrigerant by a hissing noise coming out of the center vents. The hissing is the sound of the refrigerant rapidly expanding to fill the evaporator. This only makes noise when you're low on refrigerant. Do you hear this hissing noise?
Could it be possible that the refrigerant has leaked out in a month?? After I took the car in for the recharge, they told me they put a dye in and to come back in a week to check for leaks. I took it back a week later (after driving about 50 miles during the week), and they found no leaks. So, what 2 months later and it's all gone??

Now, I don't trust the Indy shop to fix it. I think I will have to get the stealer to fix this. I don't want to keep wasting time to take the car in just to fix the A/C.
2 months should be a big leak and easy to locate.
After about 30 minutes of driving this stops.
I noticed that when the car has been sitting in the sun out in hot weather if I drive it for like 5 minutes before turning AC on this does not happen. So you might want to watch #7 and try to reproduce the same situation with the hot weather and see what this number does.

sell the damn thing and just drive the beemer. ok how about your indy? do they
possess the skill needed to R&R the compressor?
http://tinyurl.com/5qczfe
see if you can get a copy of this publication and to see if some indy ranks
high on the ratings and accessible in your area. the edition i just rec'd last
week for Seattle area evaluated approx 400 auto repair folks and rated them
by satisfaction vs value vs hourly rate vs manuf specialty. hopefully the
edition for your area will have something similar.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
oh hell no, not giving up the benz!
I love that car and besides, it's the only automatic I have now - what would I drive to go up those steep San Francisco hills? 
I consulted with my brother's friend, who owns a repair shop in San Francisco and he said he could do it for me and save me a couple hundred bucks, but that those parts are very expensive. It's not worth it to me to save that and have to spend over 2 hours round trip in bringing the car over there and back.
Oh yeah, and my extended warranty expired last August... why couldn't it have crapped out right before then??
1) Is this a dealer-only item? I don't see it listed at Autohaus or autopartswarehouse.com. If anyone knows of a source, that would be great.
2) Does the power steering pump have to come out to replace this hose? There appears to be a 6mm socket-head screw that attaches the hose to the compressor, but access looks very tight.
Thanks very much!
John
I have a brand new set of 19" MMR's, new projector lights, and new tailights that i absolutely refuse to install untill this a/c is working properly in this Dallas heat..

Thanks in Advance guys,
tbDallas
Does your 97 have the digital dual climate control?
if so you may have a stuck duo valve,tests and diy cleaning on benzworld.org w210 diy section.or give the duo valves a firm tap with the handle of a screw driver that usually frees them up.
http://www.eclassbenz.com/node/27
ohlord
run
http://www.eclassbenz.com/node/27
make it your friend and learn to really understand what it is pointing you towards.
btw harborfreight tools has a r134 vacuum system to pull a vacuum and clean a/c lines before replacing a drier and recharging a system on sale now for 13bucks.That is a deal for those who diy their own a/c.
ohlord
I had the symptom of many of you mentioned before, passenger side is cool and driver side is warm.
I ran the diagnostic with climate unit and found my compressor was working and temperatures were fine, only thing I notic is sound from center went. Ran th daignostic and concluded the level of R-134a was not enough.
Started with 1 of 12oz R-134a charge. The passenger side start to cool and driver side was still warm.
Added one more 12 oz of R-134a, after 20 minutes of charge, it is back to Ice cold. My AC is working again.
I know most of you try to play with duo valve, but It is not the case when you are getting warm on driver side and cool on passenger side. You should run the diagnostic and check all the temperture, NEVER concluded without temperature data that duo valve is stuck. Wrong assumption, you may break duo valve when it is not stuck or broken.
Run diagnostic on climate unit and see what is temperature on #1 through #6 and #8. This will clearly tells you that duo valve is fine, and just add some R-134a.
Pat yourself on the back,but now go have the system sniffed for the leak,get it repaired,pull a vacuum on the system,install a new drier and properly charge and oil the unit before it costs you more than 2 cans of r134a(which I sure hope were not the kind that contain any kind of stop leak gunk)
ohlord

And if it is the duo valve most times a good whack on the sides frees them up and they work fine and if not, you will not break them if you follow the diy rebuild on benzworld.org w210 diy section.
Also why I need to add oil? I just charged my AC with two 12 OZ plain R-134a without any other oil and leak stop junk. I spent only $14 ($7 each for just plain R-134a can without any oil or leak stop junk in it).
US $14 fixed my AC and it is working great now.
My sensor #5 (evap temperature) was about 50 degrees that's tells me that low R-134a and not the Duovalve issue. I don't believe my duoalve were stucked. Just a low R-134a that was causing cooler temp on passenger and hight temp on driver side.
Next question for you, how you do DIY to find leaks? Can you please direct me to some DIY thread for leak test.
I don't want to inject any thing in my AC system unless it is needed for leak test.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...ail_Store_ID=3
you have one in your town
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92514
sometimes they have a coupon for the sniffer for about $10 off the regular price.The use of the sniffer is more sensitive than looking for that messy dye and a uv light and you won't have to inject anything into the system.
Great news that you put in only r134a. That stuff with the leak stop can kill a compressor or block the system.
good luck
A/C was/is blowing warm, I took it to a dealer and they told me there was a crack on the connector of my condenser and it needs to be replaced ($1500). Is the condenser and receiver/dryer a DYI project? I have been searching for a DYI, but can't find much info. Any help would be appreciated.
MB: 2001 E430
Thanks
Greg
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...AC%20Condenser
I assume that all the r134a is gone with a big leak like that,so no problems in having to capture the r134a.Replace the condenser and the drier,then go to an a/c shop have them flush and pull a vacuum on the system and refill it with the correct amount of r134a and oil(the weight and oil are listed on the top cover of the ecu module passenger side in the engine compartment.
go to benzworld.org w210 section I don't remember a diy but post a shout out for Matt L ,he has done the diy most recently and it has been a bit of time since I had to do a w210 so his memory will be fresher as to tool and nut fittings.alldatadiy.com has most of the factory wis so a subscription to it or a member with a current one can tell you if it contains the procedure.
hope this helps
ohlord
Last edited by ohlord; Aug 31, 2008 at 08:44 PM.
Last edited by damonator; Oct 23, 2008 at 05:45 PM.







