- Mercedes-Benz C-Class: Why does My Car Dies right when it Starts?
Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions
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Sorting out E320 stalling problem
Jim
Jim

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Product: Reference Sensor
F6010-100664
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Brands: HELLA
List Price: $107.00
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2000 Mercedes Benz E 430 Sedan
POSITION : @ FLYWHEEL
From Auto Parts World website
5 weeks back the brake light switch due to ESP/BAS malfunction was replaced and along with MAF when engine light came on was also replaced in the same week. This seemed to work and no lights until this week.
Other than those two (2) issues the only things that have been done is oil & filter change, transmission filter and oil change, rear end oil changed, fuel filter replaced, air filter replaced, new spark plugs and radiator flushed w/new antifreeze.
Anyone experience this before where your engine dies while in drive then starts minutes later?? Any idea what this problem could be? Any fuse related issue that I need to be concerned with?? Took it to local repair mechanic to obtain information off his OBI II scanner and read nothing.
Really puzzled and was hoping to avoid trip to the dealer as our local MB dealer takes real good pride ($$$) in their service work. Any help is appreciated.
In other words, I only get to drive her car when its dirty and needs a wash, broken and needs to get fixed, or empty and needs gas!!
Jeff
Turn out it's the CPS (Crank Position Sensor), so $120 in part, and $70 labor, car is back to normal. If you could manage to do the job, it's quite easy to replace. There's only one screw to attach the sensor to the engine, and it took my mechanic less than 5 min to replace the whole thing !!! (nevertheless, I think the labor charge is worthy, since his diagnostic skill is 10/10 so far).
5 weeks back the brake light switch due to ESP/BAS malfunction was replaced and along with MAF when engine light came on was also replaced in the same week. This seemed to work and no lights until this week.
Other than those two (2) issues the only things that have been done is oil & filter change, transmission filter and oil change, rear end oil changed, fuel filter replaced, air filter replaced, new spark plugs and radiator flushed w/new antifreeze.
Anyone experience this before where your engine dies while in drive then starts minutes later?? Any idea what this problem could be? Any fuse related issue that I need to be concerned with?? Took it to local repair mechanic to obtain information off his OBI II scanner and read nothing.
Really puzzled and was hoping to avoid trip to the dealer as our local MB dealer takes real good pride ($$$) in their service work. Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by zam2000; Dec 27, 2006 at 12:37 PM.
Turn out it's the CPS (Crank Position Sensor), so $120 in part, and $70 labor, car is back to normal. If you could manage to do the job, it's quite easy to replace. There's only one screw to attach the sensor to the engine, and it took my mechanic less than 5 min to replace the whole thing !!! (nevertheless, I think the labor charge is worthy, since his diagnostic skill is 10/10 so far).
My car is doing the CPS death march, starting last sunday. It ran all week and then did it again yesterday, dying in traffic and correcting in about 30 seconds. The code scanned to be the CPS...I dont feel like spending 300$ to get it fixed at the dealer---where is the best place to get it? Benz bin has it for $73, is that the best price?
Thanks a bunch...also where is it? I popped the hood and couldnt see any connectors lurking down by the harmonic balancer, but I was dressed kind of nice so I didnt dig.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...ghlight=sensor
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
hi ray !was doing the write up same time as you
also be sure to watch out for the sharp metal edges back there, wear gloves,latex,and follow the directions posted and you'll be good to go.
What codes did you pull?sometimes the cps is going and it throws no codes at all,so yours must really be gone!
ohlord
also be sure to watch out for the sharp metal edges back there, wear gloves,latex,and follow the directions posted and you'll be good to go.
What codes did you pull?sometimes the cps is going and it throws no codes at all,so yours must really be gone!
ohlord
I had just gotten it out of the shop for a bum voltage regulator (which is one of the scariest things to go wrong as each system systematically goes out, so like every 15 seconds you're like $1500 more in the hole as BAS, ABS, ESP, etc keep going out) like 12 hours before. Isnt it funny how problems come in bunches? Sometimes I think after a major service the dealer breaks something....
Which part # do I need for the sensor? I have a late (July) 01 car and my trim tag is as follows
7047977 9 349 581
210065 12 414 801
1809 2 423 810
10 211 494 955
429 744M 551
C
post that cps code or codes for all to see,I forget to write them down and looking them up when I"m on the run is tough.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
I suspected the fuel pump or fuel pump relay, so bought a new relay (16$ from the dealer). When the car died, I replaced the relay (located next to the battery under the rear seat), and it did not solve the problem (the fuel pump did not run). I then removed the relay and jumpered across the relay (from the sole east-west pole directly across to the north-south pole opposite it), and the fuel pump worked, but the car would not start. When the car died, I checked voltage to the opposite N-S pole, and it was present.)
With the relay in, after the car died, I cracked the fuel line under the hood, and gas ran out for a minute or so and then stopped. This is with the ignition on, and the gas flowed due to being depressurized. When I cranked the engine over, no additional gas came out.
I think no current is getting to the relay to close the circuit I closed by jumping across the relay. I have no idea where current comes from to the relay poles connected to the smaller guage wires.
Any advice and direction on this is greatly appreciated. I am now suspecting the ignition switch.
Joe









