E430 Crankcase Pressure
#1
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1999 E430 Sport
E430 Crankcase Pressure
I've tried my best to research this but still have questions, so please bear with me. My 99 E430 (w210.070, Eng 113, miles 126k) has oil seeps at the following locations: oil filler neck (appears to be from the seam that is 1/4 inch below the cap), both breather covers (?) on top of the valve covers and possibly from the covers too.
I have read that if the breather hoses are gummed or obstructed that I may have high crankcase pressure, which may explain why oil is being forced out the filler neck seam.
Q1:If I replace the two small hoses going to the back of the engine and the large hose going to the rear air duct, should that fix the root cause of the pressure issue?
Q2: If not, is there anything else to make sure that crankcase pressure is vented properly? PCV?
Q3: Is it okay to spray parts cleaner around the breather covers and the oily/dusty coils or will it seep into the coils/plugs?
I have already put a new seal at the oil filler neck base and new oil cap.
I will be changing the oil soon so I plan to run a can of Seafoam in my oil for a week before changing.
Any answers or other advice will be much appreciated.
I have read that if the breather hoses are gummed or obstructed that I may have high crankcase pressure, which may explain why oil is being forced out the filler neck seam.
Q1:If I replace the two small hoses going to the back of the engine and the large hose going to the rear air duct, should that fix the root cause of the pressure issue?
Q2: If not, is there anything else to make sure that crankcase pressure is vented properly? PCV?
Q3: Is it okay to spray parts cleaner around the breather covers and the oily/dusty coils or will it seep into the coils/plugs?
I have already put a new seal at the oil filler neck base and new oil cap.
I will be changing the oil soon so I plan to run a can of Seafoam in my oil for a week before changing.
Any answers or other advice will be much appreciated.
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#3
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You can clean the whole 430 M113`
engine if you want to without fear of problems.Just use a product like gunk foamy engine cleaner and a stiff paint brush on the heavy deposits if there are any.Usually gaskets and such are not a problem on the M112 and m113's.Clean it and hose it off and post the areas of concern.You can clean hoses and check vacuum lines.
p.s. sorry I missed your PM it has been a hectic week.
Some pics and let's solve the problem.
p.s. sorry I missed your PM it has been a hectic week.
Some pics and let's solve the problem.
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#4
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1999 E430 Sport
Finally a picture
OK, I cleaned down the engine and lightly dusted the problem areas. So it appears that the NEW oil cap is also leaking and the blower cover seal is seeping. You can actually see the silicone seal out of place in the picture near the seep. The passenger side cover is also leaking.
Is there a DIY on resealing these covers? Is Permatex RTV black sealant OK? Do I have to remove the two lines that lie on the cover (in background)? Do coils have to come off as well? Is it time to check PCV?
Any guidance is much appreciated. Thanks
Is there a DIY on resealing these covers? Is Permatex RTV black sealant OK? Do I have to remove the two lines that lie on the cover (in background)? Do coils have to come off as well? Is it time to check PCV?
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#5
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96 and 08 911 turbos
fairly common problem. I had the same issue on my s500 and fixed it with some MB sealant (black permatex is ok) and about 1 hours worth of work.
There should be two hoses that connect to the cover. They will need to be removed, but be careful as they are harder rubber/plasticky and tend to crack easily. I had to replace one of mine for this reason ($8 bux, so not a big deal if they crack).
Basically, remove those hoses, remove the inverted torx bolts and the few hex nuts that hold the cover down. The coils do not have to be removed.
Then scrape the old gasket out of the cover (worst part of the job), reseal, tighten bolts to spec (less than 5lb ft if I recall correctly) and wait about 30 minutes for the sealant to setup.
This 100% fixed my problem.
There should be two hoses that connect to the cover. They will need to be removed, but be careful as they are harder rubber/plasticky and tend to crack easily. I had to replace one of mine for this reason ($8 bux, so not a big deal if they crack).
Basically, remove those hoses, remove the inverted torx bolts and the few hex nuts that hold the cover down. The coils do not have to be removed.
Then scrape the old gasket out of the cover (worst part of the job), reseal, tighten bolts to spec (less than 5lb ft if I recall correctly) and wait about 30 minutes for the sealant to setup.
This 100% fixed my problem.
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Thanks
After a couple hours of surfing, I found this for the M112:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ing-cover.html
Anyone know the torque settings?
Still wondering about the PCV as well........
My MB, she's got me under pressure!
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ing-cover.html
Anyone know the torque settings?
Still wondering about the PCV as well........
My MB, she's got me under pressure!