accelerator problem
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2001 E320
accelerator problem
I just bough this car recently, and heres what I noticed yesterday, it said It needs more oil. (1.5q, more). Drove to work today (1:pm) went to lunch (4:pm) went home (10pm) and this is when i noticed the accelerator problem. I press the pedal, then 4 seconds later, the engine figures out i pressed the pedal, then it goes. shut car off, restart, all good (for a minute) then same problem (so if i try to pass somebody, i press the pedal, 1...2...3...4.... then the car goes. I bought engine oil, added a quart, drove home for 20 minutes, no problem. (its late at night now). also the check engine came up as well. can engine oil and accelerator has to do anything with each other?? I searched around, didn't quite find the same problem
Added 5/25 3:40 pm EST
** Drove to work today, CEL wa on, went to auto part to scan, it wasnt on, but I still got 2 error codes
1st code is P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor
2nd code is P0120 TPS/Pedal Sensor
Added 5/25 3:40 pm EST
** Drove to work today, CEL wa on, went to auto part to scan, it wasnt on, but I still got 2 error codes
1st code is P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor
2nd code is P0120 TPS/Pedal Sensor
Last edited by zheka; 05-25-2010 at 03:39 PM.
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98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
Not likely this has anything to do with fluid levels.
You may have a bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Located near the fuse panel under the hood.
Since you have a MIL (CEL), scan with a DTC scanner and post values as a start.
You may have a bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Located near the fuse panel under the hood.
Since you have a MIL (CEL), scan with a DTC scanner and post values as a start.
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2001 E320
Drove to work today, CEL wa on, went to auto part to scan, it wasnt on, but I still got 2 error codes
1st code is P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor
2nd code is P0120 TPS/Pedal Sensor
I cleared the codes, I will wait if they come on again or not. Should I be worried a lot with theese code?
1st code is P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor
2nd code is P0120 TPS/Pedal Sensor
I cleared the codes, I will wait if they come on again or not. Should I be worried a lot with theese code?
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98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
Neither is likely to damage the engine in the short run. However, it is rather unsafe to operate the car with an accelerator which behaves erratically. Just ask a Toyota owner. And of course your gas mileage will be bad.
These cars are built with a computer style network called CAN (Controller Area Network). The main microcontroller called the ECU sends/receives signals from all the electrical components. That's how things like how long the lights stay on after exiting can be changed because it's done by software not a hardware countdown timer.
When one of the sensors which supplies info to the ECU starts 'wigging out' things become erratic.
With the CPS the most common symptom is car won't start when hot but after cooling down it will. But because everything is interrelated that's not the only possible symptom. A TPS can usually be tested. It should put out a constantly increasing voltage as the pedal is pushed. Don't have the spec for yours but maybe about 0.1v to 5v.
In older cars with carburetors the accelerator was connected via levers directly to the carburetor. In these car's it's linked to a sensor (TPS) which measures how far you have pressed the pedal and sends a signal to the ECU. The ECU determines how much fuel and sends a signal to the injectors. Hence the term 'drive by wire'.
These cars are built with a computer style network called CAN (Controller Area Network). The main microcontroller called the ECU sends/receives signals from all the electrical components. That's how things like how long the lights stay on after exiting can be changed because it's done by software not a hardware countdown timer.
When one of the sensors which supplies info to the ECU starts 'wigging out' things become erratic.
With the CPS the most common symptom is car won't start when hot but after cooling down it will. But because everything is interrelated that's not the only possible symptom. A TPS can usually be tested. It should put out a constantly increasing voltage as the pedal is pushed. Don't have the spec for yours but maybe about 0.1v to 5v.
In older cars with carburetors the accelerator was connected via levers directly to the carburetor. In these car's it's linked to a sensor (TPS) which measures how far you have pressed the pedal and sends a signal to the ECU. The ECU determines how much fuel and sends a signal to the injectors. Hence the term 'drive by wire'.
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2001 E320
well, when i went auto parts, it had no problems at all. i drove to work today as well, no problems. yesterday after i filled up with oil, and drove home for about 20-30 mins, no problems as well. so as of right now, the problem is gone, and I'm gona drive around after work as well, to see if the problem appears again
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GL450
If your TPS is bad (sounds like it is) it will run fine, then once you floor it (hitting the kickdown switch) it will go into a type of limp mode. The cruise control will no longer work. The car will only give you about 10% power and there will be a several second delay between when you give pedal input and when it responds. Once you switch off the car, it will be fine until the next time you floor it. A new TPS is about $100 and can be found even on Amazon.com
Sounds like your CPS is shot, too.
Sounds like your CPS is shot, too.
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2001 E320
saintz, i think you are right. I managed to reproduce the problem. When I drive out of my apartments, theres an 8 lane highway, so if you dont wana wait 30 minutes for all the cars to pass by, you have to floor it, turn, and cross the highway, and thats when my TPS went out again. Shut of, restarted, all ok, I tried to floor it on the straightaway, no problem. Tried it again, no problem. It seems like it happens when I floor it, and turn left at the same time