W210 722.6 transmission rpm 500 slip

on the highway, when flooring, it downshifts,
and rpm jump, 500+, and then the car catches up ?

is this normal ?

it's on a E300TD 99, 4 speed with overdrive.

otherwise, think it drives ok.

will do a fluid change, + filter, with synthetic 236.14 (236.10 approved)
maybe I should put lucas trans slip oil in ? 1 quart
it does have 150k miles on it.

what do you think, recommend ?

 

For service I would suggest the (Part No. A001 989 21 30 10) MB 5 speed fluid or the (Part No. A001 989 45 03 13) MB 7 speed fluid. No other fluids are approved for the 722.6x transmission. No additives. Also, you may have drain plug on torque convertor as well.

Don't forget dipstick tool (Part No. 140 989 15 21 00) for setting final level which is critical. If you need procedure, torque values, etc. let us know.

If the transmission fails (or delays) in kick-down, there is a TSB and a recommended adjustment. But don't forget it isn't a Formula 1 car.

 

Max Life
Is spec and much cheaper.
Nag1
Follow the Diy
Diesel model torque converters are non lock up
that's why it performs as stated.

 

thanks,

so since it's non lock up, the spike in rpm, and catch up is ok.
so just normal slip, due slushbox.

the new shell ATF 134 , 236.14 is backwards compatible with NAG-1,
aka 236.10 , more viscose , better oil, the 236.10 is like 17 years old,...
so the newer oil should be fine/better.

for the lucas, heard it makes it a little bit thicker, and helps with worn bands on old transmission. don't think it's going to hurt, intent to do a fluid change again , in 40-50k. right now it has 150k on it, and don't think it got a oil change yet on the tranny.

since it does not have a lock up,.... thinking of doing a moly treatment,
throw some MOS2, slippery solids in. but with the old oil, in, and now changing the fluid, might want to wait, till it gets used to the new oil, and
soak up some crud first. so after 10k, think I'll throw in couple grams of MOS2.

now, where would be a good access point, to measure temperature of the transmission ?
if this stuff works correct, it should improve efficiency, and reduce temperature.

so when I change the fluid, what color and smell should it be ?

of course, have the mech, scrub/clean the pan, and I'd make shure he has a dipstick. I do have a converter plug, need a new washer for that.
now just need to find the torque numbers.
if all is well, chip/reset is next. pushing MPG , tuning used to be to gain power, for me, it's to squeeze out more miles, once in a while be nice to stomp it, just to purge some particles from intake/exhaust.
the transmission, uses up more power than the differential, since it has more oil/gears/metal to spin around.
http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-10...oss/index.html
oh, that slippery stuff, can also quiet all those gears a bit.

the only concern is , the new fluid not having the copper, zinc values of the old oil. would be cool, if we could have a lab, take a look, and tell us how good it was after changing, and what was in it,....

 

and don't add anything to the approved fluid.

 

ok,

need to find out first, the transmission oil filter , how many microns.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...ers/index.html

 

Fluid and filter.
No need to worry about filter microns.
Fresh fluid properly done is all you need.

 

Torque for pan mounting bolts is 12Nm and size is torxT30. Note special standoff under bolt catches edge of pan. Drain plugs are 5mm hex bit. With new seals (washers) is 24Nm for pan drain and 27Nm for convertor.

Jack up all four wheels and turn crank by hand to position convertor drain plug (small window in TC shroud). Easy two person job -- one person not so much.

Correct filter, pan gasket, lock pin, and fluid at autohausaz and others. Seals from dealer. You will need 9 qts. Measure exact amount taken out. A old milk bottle calibrated in qts works well. You can estimate the partial quart. About 7.5 quarts. Put same amount back in. Drive car at least 30 min. to fully warm up. On level ground and in park, set level to upper mark (80) on the dipstick tool. If you over fill, you must drain some out. The extra quart is for that if necessary.

Note: Filter is friction fit. Clean connection so it will stay in place until pan is reinstalled. Examine bottom (inside) of pan for grit and debris. A little fine particles is normal. Anything bigger or graphite is possible damage.

You can service the differential at the same time. Drain / fill plugs are 14mm hex bit and torque is 50Nm. Make sure you can get fill plug out first. Spec is 85W-90 hypoid gear oil but most people use Mobil 1 75W-90 Syn Gear fluid.

 

thanks,
already did the differential, with lubro syn 75w90,
put some gear moly in too, runs fine.
had some black tar come out, little rancid too, so diff should be happy.

the tranny should be happy too with some new oil and filter, maybe use some brake cleaner to get the pan clean, don't have a steam pressure washer, got filter ,seal and new drain plugs, just need the washer and dipstick, oil is coming next week, ATF 134 , but it's going to be a little thinner, and cleaner.
engine and diff runs on MOS2 , tranny can wait.