E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

greetings (and question) from a forum newbie

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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 04:49 AM
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1999 E240 Elegance
greetings (and question) from a forum newbie

Greetings from South Africa.
I have a '99 E240 (approx 210 000km), which I just adore, but like most "mistresses" she has her problems...
The question is: How do I re-secure the rear-view mirror? It has "worked loose" (actually my wife manhandles it when she adjusts it!). I've had a look, and can't figure out how to get at the bolt behind the pastic cover, in front of the sunroof/courtesy light panel.
Second question: She randomly develops a miss, on hot days which progressively gets worse, but is gone the next day, which I suspect might be a coilpack, or a old/faulty sparkplug. Do I need a special tool to get the plugs out, since the space is a bit "tight"?

Just for interest, I had to replace the auto-box after it developed a leak where the wiring loom entered the 'box, and the 'box ran low on transmission fluid, was an expensive excercise, would have been nice if there was a warning of some sort, since I couldn't check the level. (agents-only, need a "special dip stick, etc, blah,blah").

Thanks in advance
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:39 AM
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From: SoCal
98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
Hello and Welcome to the forum -

Originally Posted by SoutieRSA
Greetings from South Africa.
I have a '99 E240 (approx 210 000km), which I just adore, but like most "mistresses" she has her problems...
The question is: How do I re-secure the rear-view mirror? It has "worked loose" (actually my wife manhandles it when she adjusts it!). I've had a look, and can't figure out how to get at the bolt behind the pastic cover, in front of the sunroof/courtesy light panel.
Sorry, maybe someone else has an idea on the mirror.
Originally Posted by SoutieRSA
Second question: She randomly develops a miss, on hot days which progressively gets worse, but is gone the next day, which I suspect might be a coilpack, or a old/faulty sparkplug. Do I need a special tool to get the plugs out, since the space is a bit "tight"?
The plugs take a standard 16mm spark plug socket. Since there isn't much room and the plugs are recessed an extension is needed to attach a ratchet. The metal 'boots' can be hard to remove especially if they've been in place for a long time. MB techs use a off-set 17mm open end wrench (Hazet 2771) to pry them off.

If you car is equipped with a OBD connector (under the dash near the pull handle for the hood), you can get a scanner to check the stored codes if any. This may give more insight into the cause of the miss.

Originally Posted by SoutieRSA
Just for interest, I had to replace the auto-box after it developed a leak where the wiring loom entered the 'box, and the 'box ran low on transmission fluid, was an expensive excercise, would have been nice if there was a warning of some sort, since I couldn't check the level. (agents-only, need a "special dip stick, etc, blah,blah").
A leak at that point in the transmission is fairly common. Unfortunately, it probably could have been repaired with a couple of 'o-rings'. The dipstick tool you mentioned is available and the procedure for using it correctly is quite simple.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 01:25 AM
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1999 E240 Elegance
Update:

Firstly, thanks for the reply.
Secondly, I have serviced the "madam", new oil filter, air filter. I bought a T-handle plug spanner, to get the plugs out, which subsequently broke (cheap rubbish), so I made a tool using a standard 16mm plug spanner, and welded a 1/2" socket onto the back of it. Much better!
Anycase, I also pulled all the plugs, and removed all the ignition coils to try and figure out where the misfire is coming from. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like the South African Models have the ODB connector, although, truth be told, I didn't really look very hard. I checked the plug leads with a multimeter, and they all tested at approx 2.2k ohm. I also checked the ignition coils with the multimeter, and they all showed similar readings across the primary, and the secondary coils, which leads me to believe that the coils are ok. The plugs looked good, no visible fouling.
I have tried disconnecting the MAF while the motor was running, to see if that made a difference, and the motor died, so I guess that wasn't too good an idea. I will be looking at disconnecting the MAF again, and then see if the motor starts.
What I did notice, this morning was that when I pulled the plug lead on the front passenger-side (the A-leg), I could feel a mild shock, even though I was holding the lead by the insulation, which leads me to believe that I've got a "bum" plug-lead. The shock got "very interesting" when I touched the metal shroud, which re-inforces the opinion, since as far as I know the shroud is insulated from the inner core.
Opinions/Ideas?
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 02:33 AM
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raymond g-'s Avatar
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99 E320
this video shows removal. reverse is about the same....position mirror, then
thump it back into locking position with your palm/fist. you do this once
successfully and will smile and think "...oh, that was all ?"
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 02:41 AM
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ohlord's Avatar
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
have

someone hold the mirror in place while you push up sharply with gloved hands.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 04:04 AM
  #6  
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1997 E420
Is your mirror loose at the base where it attaches to the roof, or does it flop around loose at the ball joint part where the base connects to the mirror?
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 05:51 AM
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1999 E240 Elegance
Re: the loose mirror - fixed!

Thanks all for the replies regarding the mirror, which is now sorted. Your assistance is much appreciated.
Now for that blasted misfire...
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 04:12 AM
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1999 E240 Elegance
Feedback

I think I have narrowed the search down for the misfire to the MAF sensor, since the condition seems to improve if I disconnect the MAF, and go for a test drive. I'm in the process of giving the MAF a good clean, and hopefully that sorts out the problem, since MAF's are bitterly expensive here in South Africa. (Got a quote from agents: R4700 = approx $580!!, bit rough, I think).
Also went looking for the "Scanner" connector by the bonnet/hood release catch in the drivers footwell, can't find it. Aparrently it isn't available in the RS of A models. Any idea how else I can pull the 'error' codes? I have a laptop, and am fairly familiar with RS232, RS485, RS422. I assume the CANbus works on RS422/485, and with a bit a effort in VB, I should be able to pull, read, de-code the strings. Any ideas, opinions? Am I wasting my time?
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