E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

installed new brake pads, now have soft brake pedal

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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 08:56 PM
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2000E4304Matic's Avatar
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From: Minneapolis, MN
W210 E430 4matic
installed new brake pads, now have soft brake pedal

Installed new pads all the way around today and also flushed out the fluid. The pedal feel was a little soft before I changed the pads, but now it is VERY soft.
The fluid change method I used was basic. suck the fluid from the resevoir, fill with new. Crack each bleeder one by one, attach a hose, and pump the pedal until clean fluid comes out...refill the resevoir as needed, top-off when complete.

The car stops just fine...what could I have done wrong?
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Mb system

needs to be pressure bled. you have air in the system.
Find an MB indie shop with the proper cap for the fluid res and let them bleed it properly.
Most likely cheaper and quicker than you ordering a pressure bleeder and doing it yourself.
You can also vacuum bleed but it is not the preferred method on the W210
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 09:30 PM
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Interesting. Thanks. Why does it need to be pressure bled? I would imagine it's the same basic braking system as my chevy truck with ABS, and I have done this method on the truck a couple times without issue. Weird.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 11:59 PM
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wait. did you do the two person bleeding or did you pump the brake with the bleed bolt open the whole time?
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 12:43 AM
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I used a self bleeder that doesn't let air back into the bleeder bolt, and had one person pump the pedal while I watched the bleeder. I pumped a quart of fluid through the system.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 12:57 AM
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I would re-bleed the system. I had a similar situation after changing my brake fluid. The pedal got really soft and after re-bleeding the system, it was back to the nice hard brake pedal.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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So did you only replace the brake pads and NOT the disk/rotors? What was the Brake Part # and Brand that you used? Metallic / Ceramic ???
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by tbone006
So did you only replace the brake pads and NOT the disk/rotors? What was the Brake Part # and Brand that you used? Metallic / Ceramic ???
Just pads.

Rear are Mintex Metallic

Fronts are Napa Ceramic
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 02:09 PM
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Brake Pad Mfg/Brnad

Sweet - thanks man!
So how are they working out after installation & bleed?

I need to replace mine soon and local Les Schwab quoted $788 F&R installed (including rotors)



Originally Posted by 2000E4304Matic
Just pads.

Rear are Mintex Metallic

Fronts are Napa Ceramic
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Under $300

total and a few hours or less to do it yourself.
WWW.autohausaz.com free shipping
Follow the diy at the top of the forum or on benzworld.org.
Rears take less time to do the brakes than it does to jack up the car and get out the tools.
Are your rotors smooth? Just deglaze them and install pads.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 05:48 PM
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DIY

Thanks for the info OHLORD...i'll check out the DIY tutorial & see if i wanna tackle entire job on my own. I do have a lift available at my Dads house/garage. So that may be a factor in me attempting on my own. what pads do you guys recommend ...metallic or ceramic or both ???
Rotors are smooth for most part...one has a very small groove/deviation in the surface. hopefully thats not a deal breaker for DIY version?



Originally Posted by ohlord
total and a few hours or less to do it yourself.
WWW.autohausaz.com free shipping
Follow the diy at the top of the forum or on benzworld.org.
Rears take less time to do the brakes than it does to jack up the car and get out the tools.
Are your rotors smooth? Just deglaze them and install pads.
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