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'99 E300TD won't start
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'99 W210 E300TD, '04 ML 270 CDI, '94 C200 diesel
'99 E300TD won't start
Hello to everybody! Today i tried to start my E300TD after sitting about 3 months (from december 2011 till today - in that period of time i never start it) but the car wont start.All the stuffs work - lights, windows, electric seats etc, but the car won,t start 
on my tachometer in the service section appear the following error : "25 days" and service keyI don,t think the battery is dead beaucause i check it.Which would be the cause and what i can done myself to start the car?Thanks alot!
on my tachometer in the service section appear the following error : "25 days" and service keyI don,t think the battery is dead beaucause i check it.Which would be the cause and what i can done myself to start the car?Thanks alot!
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W210 E300D
K, what kind of noise? Do you only hear the solenoid clicking? or does it actually spin the engine?
Check your battery voltage if you have a multimeter, or with ACC display(let us know which one as there is a difference in reading between the two).
Also turn on your interior light and check if they dim as you try to start the engine, if they do you simply need to charge/boost the battery.
Check your battery voltage if you have a multimeter, or with ACC display(let us know which one as there is a difference in reading between the two).
Also turn on your interior light and check if they dim as you try to start the engine, if they do you simply need to charge/boost the battery.
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Mercedes w210 300td
99 300td starting issues . . .
Engine won’t start, performed the following: IM is off. In addition to checking GP with multimeter I removed each plug, put a ground wire on and turned key on 2, all plugs glow. Opened pressure line on #1 injector, fuel is squirting out.
SOV plug: With key on 2, voltage between 2 and 3 is 5V. On OFF 5V.
Resistance between 4 and 1 is 21.38 Ohms. With key OFF, 11.56.
Pins on SOV: Key ON, Voltage is 5V. Key OFF: 5V. Resistance: Key ON 0.0, Key OFF 0.0.
Timing camshafts and fuel delivery IP is spot-on. There is no air in fuel lines. Brand new battery fully charged. Codes P0380, P0180. Tried starting engine multiple times, solenoid is clicking, why does it not start? Any suggestions are much appreciated.
SOV plug: With key on 2, voltage between 2 and 3 is 5V. On OFF 5V.
Resistance between 4 and 1 is 21.38 Ohms. With key OFF, 11.56.
Pins on SOV: Key ON, Voltage is 5V. Key OFF: 5V. Resistance: Key ON 0.0, Key OFF 0.0.
Timing camshafts and fuel delivery IP is spot-on. There is no air in fuel lines. Brand new battery fully charged. Codes P0380, P0180. Tried starting engine multiple times, solenoid is clicking, why does it not start? Any suggestions are much appreciated.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Here you go:
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction -
P0180 – Fuel temperature sensor A -circuit malfunction
Temperature sensor would not affect engine start, but those engines need good preheating to start.
Did you check the GP relay? I recall it has a fuse in it.
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction -
P0180 – Fuel temperature sensor A -circuit malfunction
Temperature sensor would not affect engine start, but those engines need good preheating to start.
Did you check the GP relay? I recall it has a fuse in it.
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Mercedes w210 300td
As mentioned in my post, I removed the glow plugs, attached a ground wire and with the switch on 2 the glow plugs heated up very quickly. Wouldn't that indicate the system works or is there something else involved?
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Mercedes w210 300td
Here you go:
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction -
P0180 – Fuel temperature sensor A -circuit malfunction
Temperature sensor would not affect engine start, but those engines need good preheating to start.
Did you check the GP relay? I recall it has a fuse in it.
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction -
P0180 – Fuel temperature sensor A -circuit malfunction
Temperature sensor would not affect engine start, but those engines need good preheating to start.
Did you check the GP relay? I recall it has a fuse in it.
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Mercedes w210 300td
If you want to go by the book, P0380 is a failure in pre glow module, P0180 is failure in fuel temperature sensor
Additionally,although your hear the K40 relay, I would test by looking at the relay diagram, bla bla.
And watch out for folks trying to give you the mumbo jumbo run around!!
Additionally,although your hear the K40 relay, I would test by looking at the relay diagram, bla bla.
And watch out for folks trying to give you the mumbo jumbo run around!!
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
You should test resistance of each GP, what is easy on relay plug and confirm the relay supply power during no-start.
Other than that, you can try DIESEL starting fluid and see if the engine will fire.
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Mercedes w210 300td
Thanks Plutoe, removed all glow plugs and tested. I have 2 multimeters both of them showed a jumble of number, never stops at a specific point. Also checked relay and all seems to be as it should be as of what I read in other posts. To test, I connected the removed plugs and individually attached +/- leads turned key to 2. Supply current is 12.4V and the plug heated up within 5 seconds. The whole is a complete puzzle to me. Next, once I have an answer to the glow plugs-jumble I will reinstall the plugs, erase codes and start. As of cranking, I come to the same conclusion as katjek1.
Last edited by reknez; Oct 19, 2016 at 05:14 PM. Reason: correction
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Mercedes w210 300td
This morning I erased the the fault codes, cranked engine, no start. Sprayed WD40 onto filter, still no go. What else is there left I should do. The only thing that comes to mind is compression but why should that be an issue? Looking forward to an answer.
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Mercedes w210 300td
Thanks katjek1, the fault codes did not return. TheGP light cyles through the process. Clear fuel is squirting out of cyl. #1. As of air in the tubing I replaced all o-rings with Viton. However, I do see a line of tiny bubbles in line#6 while cranking. Measured resistance on SOV again it reads 1936 Ohms. As of line 6 it is a discharge line from the IP, so where would the bubbles originate? I much appreciate any help I can get.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Think about it. You have air in return tubing, that works under the pressure, while in front of the system you have tubings working with vacuum.
I made the mistake of using Viton orings once, that was like 12 years ago. Never again.
So you are not the first one making the mistake of fooling with fuel lines, instead of getting whole new set.
I made the mistake of using Viton orings once, that was like 12 years ago. Never again.
So you are not the first one making the mistake of fooling with fuel lines, instead of getting whole new set.
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Mercedes w210 300td
Think about it. You have air in return tubing, that works under the pressure, while in front of the system you have tubings working with vacuum.
I made the mistake of using Viton orings once, that was like 12 years ago. Never again.
So you are not the first one making the mistake of fooling with fuel lines, instead of getting whole new set.
I made the mistake of using Viton orings once, that was like 12 years ago. Never again.
So you are not the first one making the mistake of fooling with fuel lines, instead of getting whole new set.
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Mercedes w210 300td
Engine still not run, I must take a leak down test. Of what I read, each cylinder has to be at the top. Please tell me how to do that.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Leak tests come popular on cdi engines, where with electronic injectors can be good indication of injector shape.
Have never heard about the test done on mechanical injectors, so that will be interesting.
Your injectors have 2 leak outlets to be connected in row, so you need to plug one outlet and hook up measuring device to the other one.
Have never heard about the test done on mechanical injectors, so that will be interesting.
Your injectors have 2 leak outlets to be connected in row, so you need to plug one outlet and hook up measuring device to the other one.
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Mercedes w210 300td
Leak tests come popular on cdi engines, where with electronic injectors can be good indication of injector shape.
Have never heard about the test done on mechanical injectors, so that will be interesting.
Your injectors have 2 leak outlets to be connected in row, so you need to plug one outlet and hook up measuring device to the other one.
Have never heard about the test done on mechanical injectors, so that will be interesting.
Your injectors have 2 leak outlets to be connected in row, so you need to plug one outlet and hook up measuring device to the other one.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
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Mercedes w210 300td
Very much appreciated, kajtek1, now I have something to follow. It's frustrating but confident all problems will be solved eventually with your help and other
Last edited by reknez; Nov 8, 2016 at 05:15 AM. Reason: correction
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Mercedes w210 300td
What is wrong with my engine
In addition to post #7 I performed the following tests:
What I hadn’t mentioned so far that I’m working with a brand new head. Had the pistons ground and checked prior to installing from the old to new head. Tested installed pistons with gasoline, no visible leakage in 24 hours. Timing of the IP was done with the tools as described in various publications. All is OK there.
Since then I performed a compression test on #1 cylinder, it tested around 100 psi, the air escaping through the exhaust. No bubbles in the cooling water. No water in oil (drained the oil). No detectable leaks around head gasket.
While cranking the engine to start a lot of smoke comes out of the intake ports. Occasionally it wants to start, and once actually did for about 3 seconds and died, must check fuel pressure?
Installed new K40 relay, S.O.V. and Timing chain.
Now, the puzzling part: Presently, #1 cylinder is at TD and the exhaust cam lobs at about 90 degrees that should indicate the exhaust valves are closed, but with the applied air escaping through the exhaust (the pipe that (with the IM installed) connects to the EGR. Why doesn’t the cylinder hold the pressure? 1.) Are the valves leaking? 2.) Are the exhaust lobes bearing on the tappets at 90 degrees? I appeal to all familiar with the subject to come forward with advice to get this beautiful car on the road again, thank you!
What I hadn’t mentioned so far that I’m working with a brand new head. Had the pistons ground and checked prior to installing from the old to new head. Tested installed pistons with gasoline, no visible leakage in 24 hours. Timing of the IP was done with the tools as described in various publications. All is OK there.
Since then I performed a compression test on #1 cylinder, it tested around 100 psi, the air escaping through the exhaust. No bubbles in the cooling water. No water in oil (drained the oil). No detectable leaks around head gasket.
While cranking the engine to start a lot of smoke comes out of the intake ports. Occasionally it wants to start, and once actually did for about 3 seconds and died, must check fuel pressure?
Installed new K40 relay, S.O.V. and Timing chain.
Now, the puzzling part: Presently, #1 cylinder is at TD and the exhaust cam lobs at about 90 degrees that should indicate the exhaust valves are closed, but with the applied air escaping through the exhaust (the pipe that (with the IM installed) connects to the EGR. Why doesn’t the cylinder hold the pressure? 1.) Are the valves leaking? 2.) Are the exhaust lobes bearing on the tappets at 90 degrees? I appeal to all familiar with the subject to come forward with advice to get this beautiful car on the road again, thank you!
Last edited by reknez; Nov 14, 2016 at 09:58 AM. Reason: corrections
