SFmbzE320

I have all the three keys: Key Fob, Valet Key, and Flat(Master) key.

I can open all the doors, the trunk, the glove. The dome interior lights come on. The headlights are fine. Radio comes on.

However, when I insert any key into Ignition to turn to Position 1 or 2, it just does NOT budge. I tried using the master key, push back n forth like many times but still no luck. I sprayed lubricant into the keyhole and tried several times. Nothing.

The switch blade key in the Key Fob and the valet key shows a little bit of wear but the Flat (Master) key looks fine.

Please provide any tips to resolve this key issue without having to tow the car to the local MB stealership. Other than that, the car runs pretty smoothly. Thanks.

Musikmann

When you first insert the key do you hear the noise indicating the car recognizes the key and "unlocks" the ignition?

TMAllison

The steering wheel lock isn't retracting. Thats the first step of the security handshake when the key is inserted.

In order.
1) make sure trans was not left in gear.
2) wiggle steering wheel left and right while trying to turn key.
3) see if small red/yellow lights at bottom of rear view mirror are flashing. If so, observe pattern, report back.
4) jump battery

SFmbzE320

When I insert the Flat(Master) key in the trunk lock opener and unlock the car, the Dashboard lights up as usual with the miles indicator showing the miles, etc. But I do not hear any noise per se when key is inserted in the ignition lock.

What exactly is the noise I should be hearing? Like a click? or Latch open? or Beep? Or something mechanical sound?

SFmbzE320

1) It is in Park. came home, parked the car, and locked up last night.
2) I can only turn (clockwise) Steering Wheel to the right about 4-5 inches.
3) The red/green lights under the RearView mirror - do NOT light up or flash or blink.
4) I tried to hear for any kinda noise when the Flat(master) key is inserted. No noise. Other than the physical mechanical sound you hear of the key going into the key hole. But no noise when the key is fully inserted. It feels like it is not recognizing they key? I did have a spare key made earlier. I tried all the keys including the keyfob and the Flat (Master) key which is what I just used.

TMAllison

If you can move your steering wheel 4" then the steering lock is retracting. You should hear it retract or lock everytime the key is inserted or removed from the ignition.

Did you try jumper cables? Headlights, radio and dome lights lighting up does not mean that the battery isn't dead.

Musikmann

It's hard to describe but it almost sounds like a zipper.

SFmbzE320

...you know how it beeps when you open the door with the Key inside the ignition and the message center displays "Key Inside" blah stuff?

Guess what...nothing happens. I can leave the key inside ignition and open the driver side door or close, it doesn't matter. No warning messages whatsoever?

Also, I cannot open the doors from the Key Fob (infrared remote control) key anymore. The only way I can open the door is by using the Flat (Master) key via the Trunk lock.

What does this tell us?

ps: I haven't jumped it yet, don't have another car yet.

Musikmann

If the car doesn't sense the key in the ignition when the door is open it might be the door switch "plunger" is malfunctioning.

If the remote doesn't lock/unlock the doors you might need to replace the batteries. But bare in mind the remote batteries have nothing to do with the ignition sequence.

As TM said above, checking the car's battery is a good idea.

Plutoe

The DAS(drive authorization sequence) is not being completed to allow the key to be moved.------If your head lights come on you have enough voltage to satisfy the sequence, yet the car may not have enough strength to start.

In any event we have been talking much about the K40 board(located in the passenger side(LHD) control module box) recently and it is the voltage distributor for the DAS.

I would add that to a list to check(fuses). Good Luck!!

SFmbzE320

Just wanted to post an update-

1. Tried jump - did not help. From two different sources, first with another car and second from standalone battery Charger unit. Dome lights comes on...key inserted in ignition is not recognized. Cannot turn to Aux position1.
2. Put new batteries in the remote key transponder. Still no good. It doesn't even unlock/lock like it used to with push of the button. Only way to unlock the car now is through the trunk lock. all keys work in the trunk lock to lock/unlock the car, that's it.
3. Ordered new tumbler from MB. the key that came with the new tumbler also does not work. it is not recognized when inserted into ignition. cannot turn to aux pos 1.
4. steering lock is now engaged. i used to be able to turn the steering wheel freely left or right about 4". now i can do about 2" either side and it firmly stops. no movement beyond that.
5. Brought the car to local indy mb mech. He wants $500 including parts. Stealership wants $1000+parts.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Plutoe

We attend church on most Sundays-----I will put a word in for you!!

I sure hope your boy has the diagnostic software to teach in the new ignition switch---it's a long process and if it dosen't work oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooop's

davetherave

I've had the exact same thing on my 98 e300td. It started as i pulled up and car would not lock then went to leave and car would not start. I was able to get the car to start another 5 times in the next 4 days by charging the battery, and reinserting the key into the (eis) electronic ignition switch repeatedly. I noticed that my best chance was (a) move the key in slowly and (b) hold the key steady as the eis/key interface was sloppy in the end the last start was after 90 insertions (no jokes please) in the end i took a deep breath and did what everyone advises against and replaced all the cars modules. (eis) (esl) (ecu) and key also as a precation i replaced the central locking pump and the gearbox control unit (psl) (tcu) these i got for £170 which was £55 less than a new blank key from the stealer. This route has the major disadvantage of requiring the old esl to be drilled out, but hey its cheap and it worked. I guess the other option as people are hinting at is concerned with the esl ie taking the pressure off it by wiggiling the steering so the latch has the best chance of dissengaging. also i can tell you there is a module availabe online that act's as an esl unlocker but this won't help das work as i rekon the problem will be the eis but if you have a new one then maybe you got the worst case senario of the ecu not playing and your going to have to go down my route of complete module swap. at least there is finally confirmation that it can be done. i did it blind, although it was not without problems.
So i'll pray for you today.

armanchosbenz

correct me if i,m wrong but you have a metal key(laser cut)
If that is the case then you have a frozen tumbler. Spray it with lubricant..wait overnight and then turn the key as strongly as you can.
I had the same thing happen to my 97 e320...i followed those steps and the tumbler unjamed. Once you get it to turn spray the inside of the tumbler with
graphite...you can buy it at the home depot...it,s a black powder.97 was the last year they used a tumbler lock with a dedicated metal key...the 98's got the electronic keys.