Dnasty

I have an old set of keywood 12's and an amp that i took out my old lumina and I want to put them in my e320. The install on the lumina was a piece of cake but i know this is no chevy and it has the stock bose system but in a lot of respects it may be easier in this car. From what I know so far the bose amp is near the left rear tire wheel well if this is the case can i splice the remote for my kenwood amp into the remote wire going to the bose amp? Also the cars battery is in the back seat meaning no running long power cables to the engine. Lastly i have wire tapins that i was gonna use to take the signal from the rear speakers there are a bunch of wires coming out these speakers and I'm not exactly sure once one to take. Any suggestions or if anyone has done this themselves would be greatly appreaciated thanks.

RichM

You don't give enough information to get a reasonable answer. Does your amp have speaker level inputs that can handle an amplified signal? Can you adjust your amp to remove the clipping you may get from this amplified signal? The Bose setup is much different from the GM setup you are coming from. Basic head unit with low level speaker signal.

You are looking for a simple solution, overlooking the simplest. Pull up the plastic sill plate on the drivers door. Take a look. There is a ton of room to run your turn on wire and RCA cable from the trunk to the head unit. This is going to be the simplest most fool proof way to hook up your amp and subs. You need to remove the trunk liner and back seat regardless. The removal of the rear and drivers sill plate, bottom trim of the B pillar (all these trim pieces just snap off and on), tuck your wires away and your done. You already know the drill on removing the head unit. You will be much more satisfied with the sound quality using the sub out from your head unit.

Dnasty

Yes my amp has speaker level imputs that's how I was able to simple feed off the signal in my old car. Is there really a noticeable difference in sound quality running rcas out the head unit? I was able to find a chart that tells me each wire color on that amp and that literally would take me like 10 minutes to do but if the sounds better I may just pull that stuff up u say it all just pops out? Is there any info on how to pop these things out i dont wanna break them.

RichM

Speaker level typically refers to an unamplified signal. Check the specs on your amp. This should tell you the max speaker level wattage allowed. It is usually 40 watt max, but may be as high as 80. I don't know the specs on the Bose amp, so I can't tell you what the output at speaker level might be.

Yes, it makes a difference in how the subs sound. If you take your amp and subs to an audio shop, how do you think they would do the install? They would use the sub out from the head unit. The trim pieces just pull up. They are very durable. Grab from the inside lip (seat side) and gently pull up. Work your way from one end to the other. The trim piece at the bottom of the B pillar use a plastic installers pry tool. This gives you a little leverage as there is not a convenient place for your fingers. I have also done this without removing the trim at the B pillar. Depending on the gague cable you use, you may be able to slide it under the trim piece. This can leave a slight gap at the bottom of the trim piece though. Better to remove it. You can try using the speaker level inputs. If it does not work, or does not sound right ( clipping or distortion) you can always get some cables and use the sub outs in the head unit. Good luck whichever way you decide to go.

Dnasty

I was gonna mount the amp against the back of the seats inside the trunk is this a good location theres nothing really to damage back there is it? Also do oyu know approxamately how long the cables should be if im running to the head unit i know my rca's should be fine they are like 20 feet but i have a remote cable thats a little over 10 feet in length should i get a longer wire?

RichM

I think the seatback is as good a place as any. There is plenty of air space there so overheating should not be a problem. You want to mount it firmly so it does not vibrate loose. I am not sure if 10 feet will do it. You may want to lay it out and check. You may need to splice in another couple of feet if tight.

Dnasty

Finished it in about 3 hours amp mounted against seatback woofer facing the car. Thanks for all the help guys. Only problem now is the rattling of my back license plate but u can only hear it outside the car so thats the worlds problem... jk I might have to put some putty or something on the bottom part as theres no screw holes.Actually on further inspection the entire trunk is vibrating and if i let those headrests in the back go down they go nuts and tips on how to reduce this?

Dnasty

For some reason a check engine... engine electronics light came on when i drove home after driving for about a couple hours nothing bad happened it appeared when i was in park after arriving at my house. Not really sure what to make of this.

RichM

Subs should be mounted facing out, not in. You are most likely experiencing deflection (sound bouncing off the rear seat back into the speaker) causing much of the vibration. You will also get a cleaner sound. You can also try adjusting the gain as you may have it set to high.

As for the CEL, this is probably coincidence. Did you disconnect the battery when installing the amp? You can try a battery reset, but best to get the codes read if this persists.

Dnasty

Yea I've always had them facing out but I was so worried it would be muffled from what everyone says about mercedes insulation I did it this way... I'll switch it. Also I did disconnect the battery as I had to hook up the power wire for the amp.. guess i'll just see if it persists thanks. What is a battery reset btw?

Dnasty

You were absolutely right about the subs deflecting i switched them and vibration gone but this check engine engine electronics light is still on. There seems to be nothing wrong with any of the electronics it all works fine it just won't go away the only other thing I did besides put in these subs is charge the battery for about 20 minutes using the under the hood positive but I don't think that would cause it. Mechanics closed till monday so any advice would be appreciated. This is the first check engine light i've seen in this car since I purchased it.

R2dMax

Is this in reference to the stock Bose Head unit? Are there RCA outputs on a factory unit?? I plan to do this but havent found the aftermarket head unit I want yet


P.S.
Sorry for the thread jack

RichM

The OP has an aftermarket head unit. There is a pretty extensive thread about his install. You can use the search function to find it.

Dnasty

So mounting against the seatback was actually a horrible idea as that is where the gas tank for the car is located which is what caused the check engine light. there are two holes in my gas tank now because of this i guess its my own fault for not knowing that. Anyway my benz mechanic wants to charge like between 600-800 dollars to put a used one in. As for now i just had him turn the check engine light off took it to another indy i know and a guy stuck two screw bolts in there and put this special glue sealant over it.

Dnasty

To add insult to injury once i removed the amp from the gas tank it stopped turning on........ fml

RichM

I thought you were going to anchor the amp to the seat back using tab mounts, not the gas tank. I thought it is obvious the hump behind the seat is the gas tank. If for one moment I would have thought this, I would have warned you. So sorry you are having this problem. Try one of the tank repair kits. These products can seal the holes made by the mounting screws you used. Check at OReilly or any other auto parts store for the permatex or versa chem kits that use epoxy combined with a fiberglass mesh.

Dnasty

I think my mechanic used that epoxy mesh or whatever to seal it... meh live and learn whatever. Luckily the holes are high and my gas usually is around a quarter tank.