Cutting OEM Springs
For stock w210 (e320) springs
-cutting 1&1/2 front coil = 1.9 inch drop (roughly)?
-cutting 3/4 rear coil = 1.5 inch drop (roughly)?
I've been trying to read around but can't find clear answers. If i'm way off let me know. Springs pad measurements are irrelavent for the question, just confirmation on the spring cutting measurements are needes.
-thanks a ton
Last edited by W210calibenz; Feb 12, 2014 at 12:07 AM.
I have a 4-matic so it may be different but cutting 1/2 a coil in the front gave me about 1/2 to 3/4 inch drop and cutting 3/4 coil in the back gave me about 1inch.
Before

After cutting the front

I dont have any pics after I cut the backs but I need to cut more from the fronts because that back is lower than the front now.
not sure how safe it is but I have no other options. I'll post pics when its done. Thanks for your reply illest
will happen. but if you are still looking for options, I'm available to talk by phone
this evening if you like. am PM-you my phone #
I'd do it myself but have literally no tools for the job
turned out like this
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This was when I first bought the car. It's a crappy pic but just to show how far it's come since the beginning. If I keep making modifications I might do a small build thread.
Last edited by W210calibenz; Feb 14, 2014 at 12:47 AM.
The rears were heated and lowered just a little over an inch. I'm going back in this week to have the fronts lowered another half inch and the rears another quarter. So the car will be even lower with a bit of rake!
springs but be aware that if you felt they were stiffly sprung already, cutting
them will result in even more stiffness
if the quality of ride is also important, you may want to consider cutting your
aftermarket springs and shimming, using thicker spring pads
and that you will always fail to achieve the results desired. i disagree. I would
opine that it's the method in how it's done which determines success or failure.
when modifying your suspension be clear that you're electing to change a care-
fully designed system. you *will* disrupt the balance of the carefully combined
parts. there will be consequences if not done with awareness of the cause/
effects of the modification.
for starters, you really need to ask some important questions:
why the suspension mod is being undertaken?
what results are you seeking, e.g. aesthetics, performance, comfort, etc
how much are you willing to spend?
what can you do yourself (vs having a shop perform the mods)
etc
lowering thread from the archives
to be done.
you want the lowered look but regularly have 4 adults. the spring rate will need
to be high which almost guarantee super stiff if cabin only has driver. if you
already bought the HR spring you should note the spring rate and whether you
should change them for even stiffer springs else they'l bottom out when you
have a full car.
natch, you probably already know that lowering the ride is counter productive
to long travel and fully loaded car. too bad we can't easily install adjustable
suspension design.
The rears were heated and lowered just a little over an inch. I'm going back in this week to have the fronts lowered another half inch and the rears another quarter. So the car will be even lower with a bit of rake!
continental USA from zip code 98144. then, you can save your OE springs as back up and
unaltered. fronts - 4 green coded stripes
rear - 1 yellow 2 green coded strips
these were not cut using a torch. I used a cutoff wheel which took about 1 min each spring.
p.s. if you proceed to cut yours, here is how I did mine: I placed the spring in a corner of the room
after verifying the walls were squared and 90º to each other. I used a laser leveler to mark a 1"
cut from the TOP of the spring and taped it off. I then put the spring in a vice and cut as square
to the coil. quick and easy. (if you use heat, you change the temper and tensile of the spring)
Last edited by raymond g-; Feb 15, 2020 at 01:05 PM.








