W210calibenz

HELP NEEDED. I'm cutting my springs all the way around tomorrow and need to make sure my estimates are correct.

For stock w210 (e320) springs
-cutting 1&1/2 front coil = 1.9 inch drop (roughly)?
-cutting 3/4 rear coil = 1.5 inch drop (roughly)?

I've been trying to read around but can't find clear answers. If i'm way off let me know. Springs pad measurements are irrelavent for the question, just confirmation on the spring cutting measurements are needes.

-thanks a ton

illest

What size spring pads do you have?
I have a 4-matic so it may be different but cutting 1/2 a coil in the front gave me about 1/2 to 3/4 inch drop and cutting 3/4 coil in the back gave me about 1inch.
Before

After cutting the front

I dont have any pics after I cut the backs but I need to cut more from the fronts because that back is lower than the front now.

W210calibenz

Not positive on the pad size but I dropped it off and apparently their shrinking my coils.

not sure how safe it is but I have no other options. I'll post pics when its done. Thanks for your reply illest

FlatlineEF9

No other options? Theres a few suspension kits available for our cars. lowering springs and coil overs.

raymond g-

you've already dropped them off so it sounds like whatever is going to be done
will happen. but if you are still looking for options, I'm available to talk by phone
this evening if you like. am PM-you my phone #

W210calibenz

Only option based on my very minimal student budget. Plus my shocks were replaced recently so buying a full kit would of been to much. Really wanted a cup kit but it's like $700 for the kit and roughly $400 for labor. Plus the regular H&R's aren't low enough for my preference.

I'd do it myself but have literally no tools for the job

W210calibenz

w210mb.pdf
turned out like this

raymond g-

nicely done.. how is the ride? can we swap cars?

W210calibenz

hahah we'll have to see about that one! But it rides much better. Definitely stiffer but much better handling and "road feel".

This was when I first bought the car. It's a crappy pic but just to show how far it's come since the beginning. If I keep making modifications I might do a small build thread.

amusicianslife

Looks pretty good. So this is a 1.5 coil cut in the front and 3/4 coil cut in the rear?

W210calibenz

The front has one full coil cut plus being lowered a little over a quarter inch from being heated. (roughly 1.5 inch drop from stock ride height)

The rears were heated and lowered just a little over an inch. I'm going back in this week to have the fronts lowered another half inch and the rears another quarter. So the car will be even lower with a bit of rake!

shawngolfer

shawn here. experience is definately best teacher. I wanted to lower my wagon so I followed the common sense trail and hunches. What I did was buy and have installed hr sport springs. Definately not low enough. While installing new sway bar in front (to put on back means taking apart the entire back end) put on the thinnest shims-5mm. Still not low enough. Problem is compounded by the fact that in the rear the height is apparently dictated by the self leveling system- though did lower somewhat. Worst part is that while I dont know exactly the rate with the progressive springs, the stock springs were much stiffer, as in though higher ride height swayed much less. So in hind sight I would have saved the $ from the new springs and hacked the stock springs to desired height. Lower and better handling. Guess Im a little pissed cause no one was coming forth with that info when I was desperately trying to find out. My wagon is a sweet handler in the turns but could have done better so hope this helps some one else.

raymond g-

if you're only concerned with looks now, then yes...you can cut the stock
springs but be aware that if you felt they were stiffly sprung already, cutting
them will result in even more stiffness

if the quality of ride is also important, you may want to consider cutting your
aftermarket springs and shimming, using thicker spring pads

shawngolfer

thanks raymond. well, there you go more sublties and ways to get it done. never ending battle. On the plus side im happy with my overall result as opposed to some of the bad stories you hear of. Thanks for the tips. Shawn

R2dMax

So are you guys saying I would be better to just cut my factory springs vs installing my H&R Lowering springs? The ride is better or am I mis-reading it?

shawngolfer

I guess it depends on what youre after. the merc is such a well engineered car stock that changes that would work on a cheap car dont do sometimes what you think. Mine was solid and stiff and super handling stock springs. Wouldnt move down if you pushed on it by hand. Of course had huge fender gap. HR springs lowered it a bit but you can move it up and down 2- 3 inches with your hand. I am not expert on prgressive rate, but I think whats happening is soft at the top then stiffens toward the bottom. I just know there is more sway in a hard turn. Upside is the back end totally got rid of hard bounce over bumps. Maybe this is due to my mechanic attempting to adjust the dampening on the self leveling back. Dont know. Raymond says that cutting stock springs will make them stiffer. For me I would have loved that cuz I dont care about comfort I want road holding stiffness. Shims -5 to 23-mm will also be in the mix for your end result if desired- $5 or so each. What gets me is just the fact that hr claims the sport springs are stiffer than stock. Miffed about that. Am I totally happy with my setup-yes. I dont have horror story problems that you here of. Wish it was dropped over tires, but then again Im not scraping. And Im a dummy in really knowing tech stuff. So I would have chopped springs if I could do it over again. I think it depends on your car too. Good luck. Shawn

raymond g-

some folks advise against cutting springs, citing it's a ghetto hacker's method
and that you will always fail to achieve the results desired. i disagree. I would
opine that it's the method in how it's done which determines success or failure.

when modifying your suspension be clear that you're electing to change a care-
fully designed system. you *will* disrupt the balance of the carefully combined
parts. there will be consequences if not done with awareness of the cause/
effects of the modification.

for starters, you really need to ask some important questions:
why the suspension mod is being undertaken?
what results are you seeking, e.g. aesthetics, performance, comfort, etc
how much are you willing to spend?
what can you do yourself (vs having a shop perform the mods)
etc

lowering thread from the archives

R2dMax

I appreciate the responses. I've always modified my cars and am reasonably well versed with the coil in spring type set ups. I've Been very good at achieving my goal results with those and their progressive spring rates. How ever this set up if new to me. I purchased H&R SPrings and #1 pads all around. Hopefully they aren't too mushy. I regularly have 4 adults in my car so I dont want it squishy, but I do want low

raymond g-

since you have experience in this area, you know there may be some experimentation
to be done.

you want the lowered look but regularly have 4 adults. the spring rate will need
to be high which almost guarantee super stiff if cabin only has driver. if you
already bought the HR spring you should note the spring rate and whether you
should change them for even stiffer springs else they'l bottom out when you
have a full car.

natch, you probably already know that lowering the ride is counter productive
to long travel and fully loaded car. too bad we can't easily install adjustable
suspension design.

Lucifer01

need help pls So how many total did you cut from the front and back? Plss let me know im about to cut my springs

raymond g-

Lucifer01...or you can consider 'buying' mine and just pay postage. they're about $50 shipped to
continental USA from zip code 98144. then, you can save your OE springs as back up and
unaltered. fronts - 4 green coded stripes
rear - 1 yellow 2 green coded strips

these were not cut using a torch. I used a cutoff wheel which took about 1 min each spring.

p.s. if you proceed to cut yours, here is how I did mine: I placed the spring in a corner of the room
after verifying the walls were squared and 90º to each other. I used a laser leveler to mark a 1"
cut from the TOP of the spring and taped it off. I then put the spring in a vice and cut as square
to the coil. quick and easy. (if you use heat, you change the temper and tensile of the spring)