John Conway

Hello Folks, Glad to of found the group. Car is a 1999 E300 Diesel in US. Did not see it in heading of cars in this class. I hope this is the right place. Thanks for accepting me in this group. This inquiry is about getting the key to turn past it's initial insertion position. It does not turn past the position where the key and car read each other. When the read happens you can hear the steering while lock release and it sounds like a relay clicking. Key will no turn past this position. Will not go to position 1, 2 run, or 3 start. If I fiddle with it buy turning the tiny throw it will pass or release eventually. Could be 10 turn or could be 15 min of trying. I tried all combos and nothing works. One it goes to position 1 it's good for the entire day. I did a voltage check at time of issue and it's 12.5 and once it starts and then is shut off it's over 13 volts. When it's working the sounds of the steering lock is fast and barely noticeable. When it's not working you can actually hear the bar or pin sliding. You can also hear a relay clicking at time of malfunction. Battery is three years old and has been in FL all that time. Issue on started once I returned to FL. In more hospitable climates it has not been an issue. And advice is appreciated.

raymond g-

saying the battery is 3 years old does not translate to how effective it is. you'll need sufficient voltage so
be sure the car battery is fully charged first. many auto parts store will evaluate the health of the battery
for free here in the US. they will test by measuring voltage of the battery at rest... as well as under load.

i believe the ignition interrogates via IR so you may want to try cleaning and polishing the IR lens (tiny
bit of white, non-gel toothpaste) to burnish the lens. buff clean.

fabbrisd1

1. Please take a look at the "ring" surrounding the ignition cylinder - that ring screws on to hold the ignition cylinder securely in the dash. Often if that ring can loosen which can cause some intermittent issues. If you look closely at that ring - you will see "inside notches> where a Mercedes tool fits - but you can use the tips of a opened needle nose pliers inserted into two of those notches to tighten

2. Since your foot needs to be on the brake - that activates/closes the brake light switch which acts as a safety closed circuit as well. Search the forum to change out that brake light switch - replace with genuine MB switch only (and not replace with China made cheapie)

3. I have not personally been in the back of that ignition cylinder - which are the electrical connections at the cylinder - with battery check - #1 - and #2 above - and the other advise posted here - that is kindof the last place you need to go if not resolved and apologies I can't guide you there on that one

Badluck

Howdy John Conway, I have a more profound problem (my vehicle 1999 E320 wagon), however I found the ground cable from the battery to the frame of my car loose at the frame connection. Please assure that your ground cable is tight at the battery and at the other end of that short cable where mine was loose. My vehicle will not acknowledge the key at all in position zero. Did you read in your owners manual "page 129" Battery .. 'when replacing battery ... the electronic key is in steering lock position zero' I did not know this until I read further and my problem had become 'profound'. If you learn anything that may help me please let me thank you in advance, respectfully.

John Conway

Will do all the above suggestions. Will post results. Am watching battery drain at rest. Will start the other work soon. Thanks again

John Conway

Thanks again for all your help. Badluck, your suggestion and warning about the key being in position while disconnecting the battery is a priceless suggestion. I monitored the battery all day and it never went below 12.75 volts. The car was in a carport for the day which brings the temp down by 25 degrees. When it's in the sun battery goes down to 12.3 volts (outside temp guage reads 110 F) and since the difference between .3 and .7 does not sound like much, in battery world it's huge. Car started fine. I won't know if it's a voltage issue till it drops to 12.3 or wherever the critical point is. I checked the ground, from battery to frame and it is good. Checked ring around ignition switch and it's tight, thank you. Checked and cleaned the IR windows on key and switch and they are now looking good. Thanks for the tooth paste suggestion. Worked perfect. Did have this issue using spare key so I don't think it's the window. Not sure why the switch has a IR receiver when the spare key does not have one.
Badluck, I have removed the battery connections in the past without the key being in. I only thought of this as I was recalling resetting the windows. Guess I got real lucky. I was trying to reset a limp mode condition and it was a desperate move. Can't thank you enough for your reminder to look on page 128 of the OM.
Will post anything of note.

J Boltz

I have been daily driving this car lately. 91k w210 99’. Before issues with the steering lock occurred, same as described above. I had tighten the key ring. Problem resolved and stayed away for months, until now.

I have two keys back and forth, cannot get out of 0. I as well took off negative battery terminal to clean with wire brush without key in ignition during assessment of situation ( in my garage). Anyways still stuck in 0. I tried cleaning with lens cleaner.

Badluck

Howdy J Boltz, I was hoping to get confirmation that the owners manual did indeed say on page (approx) 129. when attaching or disconnecting battery make sure electronic key in is steering lock position zero. I often struggle with instructions.... Can you please enlighten me on "tighten the key ring" is this the bezel around the steering lock on the dashboard? Respectfully, Badluck,

Badluck

Howdy J Boltz, I have gone back on this thread and found the post from fabbrids1 ... This tells about the ring around the lock mechanism. I shall try that today! Thanks to fabbrisd1 and all for your assistance, Badluck