Some advice pls
#1
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Thread Starter
Some advice pls
Good day all, hope yall having a good evening.
Anyway, my second post, and my first mercedes benz, a 1998 W210 E280. Before I post any pics, I want to get her road ready. Many hours of Googling, and I have learnt so much before purchasing my first MB. I do need a bit of clarification on one or two things as I want to do a full service this weekend, including changing the transmission oil with filter and 13pin connector.
Firstly, the aftermarket transmission dipstick, shows a 25 deg mark as well as a 80 deg mark. Am I correct in saying that I may fill transmission up until or between the two 25 deg marks, while vehicle is still cold? This is what the 25 deg nark is for. And this will then increase to 80 deg mark once transmission has reached normal operating temp? I would probably have to top up a bit more should it not be where it should. The transmission fluid is low as it is, so putting in what I take out is pointless. Transmission fluid I have is the Ravenol ATF M9 -Serie transmission fluid, which is backward compatible with all previous MB approved fluids. Now before you guys flame me for using a 236.14 fluid, Im not wanting to get into a whole battle of what the correct fluid is lol, just mentioning what fluid I will be using.
Secondly, I cant get my interior blower, motor to work, checked fuse 4 and 7, and it is perfect. Could you guys maybe just point me in a possible direction or possible faults.
Have a good evening further
Cedric
Anyway, my second post, and my first mercedes benz, a 1998 W210 E280. Before I post any pics, I want to get her road ready. Many hours of Googling, and I have learnt so much before purchasing my first MB. I do need a bit of clarification on one or two things as I want to do a full service this weekend, including changing the transmission oil with filter and 13pin connector.
Firstly, the aftermarket transmission dipstick, shows a 25 deg mark as well as a 80 deg mark. Am I correct in saying that I may fill transmission up until or between the two 25 deg marks, while vehicle is still cold? This is what the 25 deg nark is for. And this will then increase to 80 deg mark once transmission has reached normal operating temp? I would probably have to top up a bit more should it not be where it should. The transmission fluid is low as it is, so putting in what I take out is pointless. Transmission fluid I have is the Ravenol ATF M9 -Serie transmission fluid, which is backward compatible with all previous MB approved fluids. Now before you guys flame me for using a 236.14 fluid, Im not wanting to get into a whole battle of what the correct fluid is lol, just mentioning what fluid I will be using.
Secondly, I cant get my interior blower, motor to work, checked fuse 4 and 7, and it is perfect. Could you guys maybe just point me in a possible direction or possible faults.
Have a good evening further
Cedric
#2
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Welcome to the forum.
The 25C mark is for orientation only when you fill the transmission WITH ENGINE RUNNING.
That should be confirmed later, when some driving will get ATF up to 80C.
When checking ATF temperature is not always easy, you can assume that after 1 hr of driving in warm weather it is at the mark.
For blower work you better get a scanner. Dropping parts into system having several interlocking components can turn costly.
You have W210 model that "never made it" to America, so bare in mind your models has several differences from US models.
Do you have climatronic with LCD display?
Pictures would be VERY helpful.
The 25C mark is for orientation only when you fill the transmission WITH ENGINE RUNNING.
That should be confirmed later, when some driving will get ATF up to 80C.
When checking ATF temperature is not always easy, you can assume that after 1 hr of driving in warm weather it is at the mark.
For blower work you better get a scanner. Dropping parts into system having several interlocking components can turn costly.
You have W210 model that "never made it" to America, so bare in mind your models has several differences from US models.
Do you have climatronic with LCD display?
Pictures would be VERY helpful.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hi Kajteck1
Thanx for the advice on the oil level. After all the googling, I thought I was never going to find the correct procedure, doubt I will as everyone seems to have there own opinion. Yours seems as good as the others I have come across. Anyway, I dont have the climate control unit with lcd display. Below is what my console looks like
Thanx for the advice on the oil level. After all the googling, I thought I was never going to find the correct procedure, doubt I will as everyone seems to have there own opinion. Yours seems as good as the others I have come across. Anyway, I dont have the climate control unit with lcd display. Below is what my console looks like
#4
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Too bad as climatronic would allow for some blower troubleshooting.
You should search for a scanner that will work with your car.
The technology of 38-pins diagnostic plug is outdated by now, so finding working scanner is a bit difficult, but if you plan on DIY on the car, you better get it.
You should search for a scanner that will work with your car.
The technology of 38-pins diagnostic plug is outdated by now, so finding working scanner is a bit difficult, but if you plan on DIY on the car, you better get it.
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
"Often" failed blower is failure of the "blower resistor" - normal protocol - pull the blower motor - test motor with power bypassing the resistor - of blower works fine then replace that resistor - often there are aftermarket resistors available as replacement - use "thermal grease" (like for mounting computer chips) when replacing the resistor so the blower motor top plate is used as a heat sink for the resistor.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
"Often" failed blower is failure of the "blower resistor" - normal protocol - pull the blower motor - test motor with power bypassing the resistor - of blower works fine then replace that resistor - often there are aftermarket resistors available as replacement - use "thermal grease" (like for mounting computer chips) when replacing the resistor so the blower motor top plate is used as a heat sink for the resistor.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hi all, Im sure this has been mentioned here before, and so it has been mentioned on Google before. But I fail to understand how this transmission level works. Is it correct that when it is cold and transmission has not reached full operating temp, that it should read by the 25 deg mark? And when it reaches normal operating temp it should read by the 80 degree mark? Does this oil expand when hot or.... How does it grt to the 80 deg mark if it continually cycles through the transmission. Should it not be lower when it is hot?
Another thing I came across, while it was standing, for almost 4 days without driving or starting the car, I used a MB dipstick, stuck it in as far as it would go, and it showed above the 80 degree mark. Im so confused with this, and I would really appreciate it if someone can assist
Another thing I came across, while it was standing, for almost 4 days without driving or starting the car, I used a MB dipstick, stuck it in as far as it would go, and it showed above the 80 degree mark. Im so confused with this, and I would really appreciate it if someone can assist
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#8
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Another thing I came across, while it was standing, for almost 4 days without driving or starting the car, I used a MB dipstick, stuck it in as far as it would go, and it showed above the 80 degree mark. Im so confused with this, and I would really appreciate it if someone can assist
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Came across a thread on another website and found out that transmission fluid expands when it gets hot. Makes sense why it would reach the 80 degree mark. But, I still cannot figure why the dipstick would show 80 deg even if it was cold. I read on pelican parts website that after removing the transmission sump, I need to
5 quartz is about 4.7L, which I have added. Im so confused here, maybe I have the wrong dipstick
Now fill the transmission with 5 quarts of Mercedes-Benz branded transmission fluid (part no. 001-989-21-03-10) it is critical that you use the original MBZ fluid in this application. You'll next need to jack the car up on four jackstands and make sure it is secured safely. You need to run the car through all the gears to circulate the fluid through the transmission. Having a small amount of fluid in the transmission helps to prime the system.
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Another thing I came across, while it was standing, for almost 4 days without driving or starting the car, I used a MB dipstick, stuck it in as far as it would go, and it showed above the 80 degree mark. Im so confused with this, and I would really appreciate it if someone can assist
Now fill the transmission with 5 quarts of Mercedes-Benz branded transmission fluid (part no. 001-989-21-03-10) it is critical that you use the original MBZ fluid in this application. You'll next need to jack the car up on four jackstands and make sure it is secured safely. You need to run the car through all the gears to circulate the fluid through the transmission. Having a small amount of fluid in the transmission helps to prime the system.
#11
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Being English is my 3rd language, I don't feel pity for guys who have problems with comprehension.
Read 2nd line in reply #2 again and go from there.
Read 2nd line in reply #2 again and go from there.
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I didnt ask for pity, jeez man.
What you are saying is, if I drained the sump, I should only have added oil till i got to the 25 deg mark. And pelican parts say add 5 quartz after transmission sump removal
What you are saying is, if I drained the sump, I should only have added oil till i got to the 25 deg mark. And pelican parts say add 5 quartz after transmission sump removal
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kajtek1 (08-31-2019)
#14
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I wanted to give you guys an update on my gearbox issue. For those that dont or didnt know, here is a quick rundown. Car bought with known limp mode fault. As I never had a scanner, I assumes it was the brake light swith as there were no brake lights. Well, turns out it was the transmission control unit. The unit was bench tested and found to be wonky. Purchased a secondhand unit, exact same part no is she shifts so smoothly now, through all the gears.
A HUGE thank you to everyone that contributed to all of my threads in the hopes of soughting out all my issues. I still have some isses to take of, then she will be one bad *** B&*^H
A HUGE thank you to everyone that contributed to all of my threads in the hopes of soughting out all my issues. I still have some isses to take of, then she will be one bad *** B&*^H