Dave The Hippo

Hello all, I want to fix the pixel loss on my instrument cluster and that would require taking the instrument cluster out. Before doing this, I would just like to know if the car will start and function normally with the instrument cluster removed. Also, if anybody has a link to led replacements for the instrument cluster bulbs that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all!

bbirdwell

It will run but you will have to clear several codes afterward; you can expect the CEL to remain illuminated for several drive cycles and then it will keep a stored code relating to CANBUS failure to several modules. Can't speak to LED instrument cluster bulbs but Pelican Parts sells replacement bulbs and has a great DIY in the Tech Articles section of their website.

Dave The Hippo

Well if there is a CEL after installing the instrument cluster can always clear the codes, but if it runs without it in then I'm probably going to go for it. Thankyou for your help!

fabbrisd1

Yes - it will start and run - you will feel wierd with the big hole there.

Several customers have driver without - after sending their cluster off for LCD ribbon repair (and frankly DIY ribbon repair is at "best" hit or miss, and mostly miss).

Cluster bulbs are easily replaced - note the color of the bulb holders to get correct replacement bulbs for that holder - I have not tried LED replacements under "what the frack for" category

Tall Giraffe

Where are you sending yours for repair? do they do all ribbons and bulbs? cost?

Dave The Hippo

I'm actually gonna try to do it myself. The ribbons cost a total of $10, the instrument cluster removal tool costs $11 from a non OEM (Its a fancy coathanger) and $5 for kapton tape so I dont have to solder the ribbon cable. I have been trying to find led bulbs already installed in the plastic connector, but its turning out to be a real pain in the a**. In total the cost for the ribbon repairs is $30 with tax, shipping was free bc of prime. If you want the urls, I could send it if it turns out well. I am going to have a good chunk of free time tomorrow so hopefully I can finish it, it does not look like a complicated job.

fabbrisd1

Good luck with your work - if you haven't had "ribbon" experience (and a temp adjustable T-Iron) - then you stand a chance to be very happy - or worst case send it our for repair later..

e350forme

I tried the pixel fix when I had my cluster out and did not succeed. I ended pulling one apart from the soldering by accident. Thinking about buying one off ebay ....not sure what would mileage show up as if I plugged a salvage cluster into my car.....

here is 1 reason I ruled out trying to T solder the ribbons....the inner most housing , the ones that rest on the LCD itself, does not look like it wants to come off easy. I tried to pry it out but it is held in from all angles. What I am referring to is the black inner most shell.

e350forme

Its cool how someone else is doing similar type of repairs at the same time , similar car

for the bulbs, they are easy to assess once you YANK the cluster out. I have a MB instrument cluster tool but a bicycle spoke would also work, or large pick.....there are 2 generic ones like this that are the backlight, t10, 168, 2825 are common part numbers, these bulbs just pull out from their base, there are 2 large ones and stand out

. also there are several, at least a dozen bulbs that have the screw able base. I got some in a pinch at the dealer for 2 bucks each , 1391260 is what comes up but references with BMW. I do not believe the 1.3 and 1.5 volt ones make a difference but I may be corrected. plenty on ebay if you need replacements.

Dave The Hippo

Hello all, the first time I tried to do the ribbon cable swap I didnt fully get rid of the old glue. When it went in, it actually got worse to where I could not see the pixels. After deciding to double down, I ended up using a not too sharp pocket knife to gently "coach" the glue off. Ended up working really well and it made the connections look like new. No need for new tape, the yellow electrical tape (forgot the name) resticked easily. After that, to my surprise both screens work perfectly, minus two pixels on the right that I could care less about. Only thing now is that the oem bulbs are starting to die quickly now, low 3 bulbs in a matter of 48 hours..... Gonna buy OEM bulbs and not go through the headache of aftermarket led bulbs. It came out really nicely, one tip I do have is to make sure the needles on the gauges are not too tightly installed, since they will not flow smoothly if they're really put on there.

tyabnet

There is a guy with a good rep that does the LCD repairs along with ribbon cables (and bulbs but no reason to use his service for bulbs - they are easy dyi's). See this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...no-issues.html
He advertises on ebay but also has a www site: https://odo-pro.com/index.html