E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

Propane Torch Advice - Can I Heat This?

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Old 10-16-2021, 05:19 PM
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2001 E320 4Matic
Propane Torch Advice - Can I Heat This?

The vehicle is a 2001 E320 4matic wagon and these are the accumulators that are shot. I've had a line wrench on that 10mm and only slipped a corner, no budging it and the other 17mm I'm leveraging against the bracket pushing hard enough, no budging.
I'm going to safely assume the 3 small nuts are part of a plate/bracket system that holds the accumulators tight, I don't think I'll have much luck there either. All of these area's have been wire brushed and PB Blasted for two weeks.

I'm thinking of applying a propane torch to the the two circle area's. The top to break the 3 small nuts and the lower circle to loosen that 17mm and 10mm to remove and drain the hydraulics. (she's getting new accumulators, new hydraulic fluid and filter).
I have a fire extinguisher and will keep that handy but just wanted some advice from those that may have done that or know not to?

Can I heat those area's safely?


Last edited by CanuckMerc; 10-16-2021 at 05:22 PM.
Old 10-17-2021, 09:11 AM
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I wouldn’t heat it with a torch because of fire risk and collateral damage.

Try vise grips. The nut will be ruined in the process.

Use an air chisel with a flat punch tool. Very carefully to break the rust. Risk of cracking the cast piece.

Cut the lines and replace them as part of the project.
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Old 10-17-2021, 02:47 PM
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I wouldn't heat it either because of fire danger. How about trying some WD-40 to try to loosen the bolts?
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Old 10-17-2021, 05:24 PM
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2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
Originally Posted by 190Efan
How about trying some WD-40 to try to loosen the bolts?
They've been using PB Blaster, which is a much better product for loosening stuff than WD40.
Old 10-17-2021, 05:52 PM
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Well no good, no good. On closer inspection it appears the previous owner worked these lines and replaced some due to corrosion. They rounded every one, everyone on both sides. Corroded welded tight (I've already had to do a great deal of cutting to remove the original carriers) and with rounded nuts. F me.

Parts list now includes both lines for both sides and that includes the big one to the hydropneumatic spring. Even at that spot my bite with the 17mm flare is poor so I'll be crossing fingers. I'm assuming this one piece hydraulic line with the bracket is just sitting up in that peg and I only need to pry it loose? It's pretty tight up there so I'm going to assume it's corrosion holding that in place only and she should pop if I get a pry in there?

Parts list:
Line from springload accumulator to right hydropneumatic spring - A 210 320 02 53 /drivers side: A 210 320 01 53
Line from distributor to right rear spring load accumulator - A 210 320 21 72/drivers side: A 210 320 19 72
Accululator nuts - 913023006001




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Old 10-17-2021, 08:55 PM
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The tab is likely brazed to the line. I would re-line the system from wheel to a known good non-rusted point.

What is the ownership history of this vehicle? So much corrosion is surprising in New Mexico. Did the vehicle spend part of its life in the northeast?
Old 10-17-2021, 09:26 PM
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This place is a joke.
Is this car really worth fixing?
Old 10-18-2021, 09:05 AM
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You're correct, so the pic shows where it disconnects from the underside floor. That is what's left of a plastic shroud I believe. The other side is a bit more intact so it looks like a pull away and then pry the bracket from the pin. I moved here from Canada in 2016 and bought this then to pack up and move me here which has helped slow down the rust corrosion on the body panels which I was replacing anyhow.
Old 10-18-2021, 09:08 AM
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Lost cost fallacy, yes I know. I've done so much work to this car that I believe I'm close to making it nice again. But I got this car for 3k CDN. They dumped it with a host of problems including a tranny that would go into limp (it was the O ring to the CTU wicking oil into the computer box)

I had to replace a number of parts out of the gates, gas tank, water pump, rear coil spring, tranny O and a few others.
Since I've replaced a number of items, sensors, small fixes. For major stuff I've done the front suspension from the sway bar back, new belt, plugs/wires/coils, valve cover and breather cover gasket.

Now I'm replacing the rear end, already have cut away the carriers and new wheel bearings, new subframe mounts and this was the last job.

I've done the work myself so I believe with the sale price and the parts paid it's been maybe 7-8k I've dumped in for a total of 10k. I think it's a wash?
Reality was that with our business at the time and where we were situated, we needed to keep this car going so I jumped in and learned and got the tools.
Now we don't really need to rely on this as a full time vehicle any longer and I'm thinking it's a great backup vehicle that with some body work and paint, will last another few decades.

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