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I recently bought a 96 E230 with only 97,000 km (Europe) on it. The clutch is normal when shifting, but I noticed a problem of hard shifting when the hydraulic oil is still cold - manual transmission. What could be the problem in which direction to start researching the problem? If I describe, when I put it in neutral at a red traffic light, I don't hold the clutch with my foot, but then at the green light when I want to put it in gear, it doesn't go anymore, except when the car is warmed up to normal operating temperature ??
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My experience with manual trans is more than 20+ years ago, and was different cars so it may not apply to our MB, but when you have hard time shifting, it's either of the two, or could be both. One is worned out synchromesh, and other is worned out clutch disk. Your symptoms are just at the beginning of it, so have a look or have someone check. One other that I can think of will be low oil level in the trans, but this is easier to tell because of oil leak from somewhere, which usually leave a oil spot or a puddle just under the trans.
Check it now. Once the part reach it's limit, you won't be able to shift. If you're lucky, it may get stuck in first or second gear and you maybe able to drive your car to your home or dealer/shop, but if not, it will be stuck in much higher gear and you won't be able to drive. If synchromesh, you may be able to stick it in first or second gear after you turn your engine off ( but won't shift while driving as it will not synchronize the gears), but if it's clutch, you're out of luck. Yes, it will go into any gear once you turn your engine off, but you can't disengage the clutch, so as you turn the starter, car will move as well (you can turn the starter because you can press in your clutch pedal, but clutch is engaged).
Lastly, again, these experience are with all other cars that I drove over the year with manual trans, so MB may be different.
I am confused---you say when warm the car shifts normally-------but then you say something about a red light and transmission gear position and with a green light bla bla bla
First when warm does the transmission shift normally regardless of what gear the car is in??
Second when was the last time you changed the transmission fluid??
Third when cold can you shift at all or if difficulty what do you mean by difficulty??
Fourty are there any noises associated with shifting or pressure plate when shifting??
1. it shifts fairly well but not very smoothly. Am I right that due to the heated hydraulic oil that expands a little, the clutch in the cylinder separates more easily when I press it?
2. the transmission oil was just changed, the old oil was dirty gray, 27 years old with some minimal filings on the plug. After the oil change, the shifting actually didn't improve at all.
3. by difficulties I mean the impossibility of getting into any gear while the clutch is down and then when it is pressed and trying to put it into any gear. It's the same problem when I get into the vehicle and press the clutch, I can't even get the gear lever out of gear, unless I use a lot of power.
4. there are no strange sounds when shifting gears or when pressing the clutch
Clutch disc is failing to release and is dragging on the flywheel.
Confirm no air in hydraulic line, then verify slave cylinder is not leaking fluid past the seal, then do the same for the master cylinder. If hydraulic system good, next is "throw out" bearing, throw out mechanical arm, or damaged pivot point.
I would suggest the following approach
bleed clutch actuator---if no improvement
replace the clutch slave cylinder----if no improvement
replace the master cylinder
But before all else there are loads of good mechanics in europe with loads of experience with MB manuals------see one and get an opinion before you place a wrench on your cream puff
which I tried today, it still doesn't go into gear when I release the clutch at a traffic light and press again to put it into gear and it doesn't go. At that time, with the clutch depressed, I increased the engine revolutions by pressing the gas and what happened was that it was easy to shift into gear. What would this problem indicate?
what are you talking about when you state----"which I tried today"
sounds to me as if you need to bleed the system,but what does your mechanic suggest!!!
the mechanic immediately bled only the slave cylinder but it was no better. The transmission oil is also new. The next step will be to ventilate the master cylinder, but I don't know if I would change the clutch kit, the basket,... since the car does not have many kilometers, but it is true that it is 27 years old.
Here is the short video of problem:
Clutch disc is failing to release and is dragging on the flywheel.
Confirm no air in hydraulic line, then verify slave cylinder is not leaking fluid past the seal, then do the same for the master cylinder. If hydraulic system good, next is "throw out" bearing, throw out mechanical arm, or damaged pivot point.
Hi,
looks like you were right. I replaced a new Sachs clutch set, the old one is original Luk and its condition can be seen in the pictures. The appearance of marks on the flywheel indicates that there was a bit more friction on it. Maybe it should be replaced with the clutch kit at the same time
The mechanic also changed the center bearing on the flywheel and had to take it all the way down to put in the new bearing, damaging the plastic dust cover a bit in the process.
All good, but after the change, a new problem appeared, now the clutch works and grips well, but at the same time, in 1st. 2nd. gear and reverse gear, it shakes when I release the clutch. When I release the clutch, it transfers and engages well, but with a slight vibration even in higher gears when transmitting power.
Where is the connection of the new problem now? Thx
I'll take it that you have new clutch disk as well as pressure plate. Did you resurface the flywheel? Your new clutch disk with worned out flywheel, your new clutch disk maybe chattering when the pressure plate trying to apply friction to the flywheel/clutch disk.
This is by far, most common when you put in a new disk and you have a vibration. Other is of course, defective clutch disk or pressure plate.
I'll take it that you have new clutch disk as well as pressure plate. Did you resurface the flywheel? Your new clutch disk with worned out flywheel, your new clutch disk maybe chattering when the pressure plate trying to apply friction to the flywheel/clutch disk.
This is by far, most common when you put in a new disk and you have a vibration. Other is of course, defective clutch disk or pressure plate.
I agree,I will get a new flywheel. The price of the new Luk is €460, which I don't think is too expensive, considering the quality of the car's ride.
- What torque settings are there for the flywheel and pressure plate? W210 E230 110 kw
I believe you can resurface the old flywheel if it's not too worn. This was normal practice long ago. Not too sure about today's standard. As we used to cut the brake rotor but there's hardly any place that does this. But then again, new flywheel, if you can afford and don't mind getting one, will be always better than the old flywheel. You won't have to machine shop screwing something up. Yeah, good machine shop is/are hard to come by, like everything else today.
01-05-2024, 07:01 AM
