Anyone know of an oil change DIY I can reference? I'd like to change the oil on my '05 E320 4matic, but am not sure how much oil and what type to replace it with and what filters, etc. need to be replaced (or how they should be). I have a MityVac ready to go, now I just need some knowledge... :p

TIA.

 

First of all you need an OEM Fleece Oil Filter kit like this. http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...tion=000480253

Fleece filters are designed to last longer than paper filters.

Either get it from the dealer or order it from one of the Internet parts suppliers. Do not use something like a Fram.

The M112 V6 takes 8 liters of oil. That's about 8.5 quarts. If your car came with a dipstick, you are lucky. Don't put 8.5 quarts in right away until you are sure you got all the old oil out. If your car does not have a dipstick, you might want to measure the amount of oil you extracted to be sure you have it all out. Then add 8 quarts. Too little is better than too much.

Check your Owner's manual to make sure the 4Matic is the same as the non-4Matic in oil capacity.

You should use 0W-40 Mobil 1 oil. You can get it at Autozone or some Walmarts.

 

Cool, thanks for your help, Bud. Any idea where the filter is located, what size socket I need to remove it, etc.?

 

Here is a picture of the Mercedes M112 V6 engine. http://www.whnet.com/4x4/new_V6.html

On the front of the engine on the street side in the U.S. you will see a rectangular reservoir. That's for the power steering pump. Next to it is the oil filter housing with a cap that can be unscrewed. Unscrew it and remove the filter. Replace the o-rings with those supplied in the kit and reinsert the new filter.

You add oil by removing the cap just to the rear of the oil filter housing.

Note that you may not be able to see the power steering reservoir with the engine covers on but you can get to the oil filter housing and oil cap.

 

[
You should use 0W-40 Mobil 1 oil. You can get it at Autozone or some Walmarts.[/QUOTE]

......I have an 01 c240 and 0W40 is called for in it also, but the only place in my area to get it is at the dealer. All Data says an alternate is 0W30....what do you think of that? I dont understand what the difference is. ?

 

What data are you refering to? Here is a list of approved oils. http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

Use the first chart MB Sheet 229.5 approved oils. You could also use MB Sheet 229.1 approved oils.

If you scan down a bit you will see that Mercedes specifically DO NOT recommend using any of the 30 weight Mobil 1 oils. That's because they are claimed to be full synthetic oils but they have a petroleum base.

 

Anyone have any opinions on whether the msoil Series 3000 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel oil is any better than the Mobil one used by the dealer? Or are they more or less the same? I know MB recommends Mobil 1, but that could be because Mobil one is good enough, and that they have a marketing agreement.. but not necessarily that it's the best.

I used to use Amsoil series 2000 in my prior cars, but it got expensive $8/qt so I switched to Mobil 1 in my Volvo..

 

0W-40 Mobil 1 was originally developed for Porsche and is installed at the factory. This oil is specifically designed for European high performance engines.

Mercedes specifies using it in both gasoline and diesel engines in the U.S. You won't do better.

I don't trust Amsoil. They do a lot of double talking about their products and won't do an apples to apples comparisons with other products.

 

One little thing - while you have the oil filter out, you can pour the majority of the new oil down the filter housing - much easier than the filler cap.

By the way, I picked that one up here on the forums, I just wish I could remember who made the awesome suggestion.

 

Great idea!

 

Funny,

Just dropped my car off for the <3000 mile checkup. Asked what an oil change would cost, was told, get this...$ 180.00. Guess i'll have to get used to these type of costs! needless to say, i'll be doing it myself!

aceman

 

Wow... My indy shop will do it for $64, including oil and filter. I don't know that I can really save much money by doing it myself. Anyone know how much a quart of 0W40 Mobil 1 and a filter/o-ring kit will run me?

 

0W-40 Mobil 1 is $5/quart at Autozone. A Mann fleece filter kit lists for $18.50. What kind of oil/filter is your Indy using?

 

Consider that if you use an engine oil that doesn't meet D-C's specs, your warranty coverage for anything that oil lubricates is void. That alone is sufficient reason for sticking with what D-C recommends, IMHO. I also happen to agree with Bud C about Amsoil and have had a lifetime of excellent service from Mobil 1 products. So no way would I use anything else.

 

Not sure, I'll ask.

 

I hope those are Canadian dollars! I got a $101 price at a pricey Scottsdale AZ brand new dealership... don't pay more than that!

 

OK Sam! BTW, how is the new place? Phoenix Motors are supposed to build a new dealership on Bell west of the 101 but it's a couple of years away.

My first service is due next month and it's free because I bought a 2004 at the end of the model year. As I said, I think things over pretty carefully.

BTW, I'd love to have your G5 Power Mac. Have you installed Tiger yet?

 

Ace,

Take the filter and oil to an independent garage and let them do it. Mine charges 15 bucks.

 

Coupla' things.

On the oil filter itself, it's a cartridge-type, not a spin-on, so it's a bit messier to deal with. Keep your hands clean or wear rubber gloves, you don't want to filth up a new filter cartridge. The filter cover/housing cover actually looks like a filter and it's a composite, so you don't want to manhandle it. Thus, don't use a generic filter wrench to remove it, purchase a dedicated filter wrench designed for the cover. Some folks get the metal wrench, I bought a composite one for about $5 from Checker/Kragen since I'd rather use a composite wrench on a composite fitting. Some people call these "cap-style" wrenches since they slide on the end of the housing and have a wrench fitting and a square-head ratchet opening. This is additionally useful because the torque spec for the OF cover is 25 NM (about 18 ft. lbs.) and you definitely don't want to overtighten it (did I mention it's composite?).

When you get the filter -- and follow the other post advice, get the fleece one -- be sure to get a filter kit so that you get the replacement o-rings. Buy 'em online and save a few bucks per kit.

If you buy mobil1, get the 0w40, that's the only grade of mobil1 spec'd for MBZ engines. The other weights are fully synthetic but there are other additives and shear issues related to the 0w40 that are not present in the other mobil1 weights. If you don't want to run mobil1 or want to use a lower-vis oil, there are other brands that meet the MB spec in the lower weights. Me, I'm a mobil1 loyalist, became a believer with my last car.

The other consideration is whether to drain the oil or suck it out with a topsider. There are arguments both ways and if you search the forums you'll find advice both ways -- sometimes heated. Personally I'm a drainer and if you plan on draining your oil you will also need a new gasket/crush washer for the drain plug, they're about .15 on line. My preferred online suppliers, in order of preference, are www.autohausaz.com, www.autopartswarehouse.com and http://parts.mbz.org

Lastly, if you can wait a couple of weeks, by somewhat popular request I'm going to do a DIY pictorial post similar to the ones I did for steering wheels and brakes. I've got a 210 but the procedure is identical since our V6 engines are identical.

And I can't resist mentioning -- not to pat myself on the back in part because it's not as though it's an original idea and I'm sure it's on here several times -- but in one of the myriad threads on this general topic I commented on pouring the oil down the filter opening. I was happy about that because I haven't spilled a drop yet; it's easy to hit that cavernous opening.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

The new Schumacher is a classy place with a nice coffee shop (most of the basics are free, the fancy drinks are a few bucks).. the service side is clearly the better side of the house for me. Though I have yet to get total satisfaction with my oil issue.. That will wait till I meet the service manager. I tried to buy a car from them but they wouldn't talk price with me. Thus why I bought at Phoenix motor.. but then their service side rubbed me wrong, seemed like total mayhem and they kept pawning me off to different guys.. I can't win. Maybe I'll buy from Phoenix, and service at Chandler!

I did hear Phoenix motor is approved for a new location in Sun City.. about time we get something on the west side, though I hope they don't go too far west... Maybe Bell and 90th or so...


As for the Mac... I've had it 1 year now, and it's still amazing to me how much fun it is to use! I am one of those that installs upgrades as they come out, so I got Tiger the day it came out, and it's worth ever $ I spent.. Though I am a bit disappointed in their "Dashboard" vs the way Konfabulator did it.. That said, This is likely one of the last PowerMacs to run IBM inside, the next ones' will likely have "Intel" Inside, and who knows how well OS X will run (Steve seems to think as well or better).

I used Apple back in the day, then switched to PC for years... When OS X came out, I had to return.. Unix is too cool!


BTW... did you ever hit that Polish Deli? Pretty good?

 

addendum to last post..

BTW.. Bud, I could learn a few things from you about the thought process.. I tend to be a bit on the impulsive side.. It's a wonder I'm remotely successful. I need to sometimes slow down and study things, rather than jump in both feet first.

 

I've had good service at both Schumacher and PMC. Of course Schumacher is light years better when it comes to amenities and they might even be a bit cheaper than PMC.

I tried several times to buy a car from Schumacher but they would never give me a price over the phone. The first time I called the salesman at PMC, he told me exactly how much below Invoice the car would cost and e-mailed me a copy of the Invoice. When my wife and I went down to pick out a car, he insisted I take the car home over the weekend to make sure that's what I wanted

I stopped in at the White Eagle Deli to pick up a menu but we haven't eaten there yet.

I've been trying to get my wife to switch to an iMac because I think it would be easier for her to manage if her resident nerd wasn't around. She's not interested. With Tiger, it would work with my PC home network.

I totaled up what it would cost me to go completly to Apple with some iPod stuff thrown in. It came to $12,200. I'll have to admit my wife didn't laugh her head off when I told her about it.

 

I'm just a fake. If it wasn't for my wife, I'd be driving a BMW M3 which isn't exactly practical.

 

Yeah.. It's a good analogy I always use with Mac and Cars, Mac ain't a bargain, but like with MB in many ways, you don't always get the latest bells and whistles, fastest CPU or best value, but you get a solid machine that is top of it's class. I got my mom a new iMac for $1999 and she's 75, I also got her a new E350, and she finds the E350 several times more difficult to work!

 

..........Thanks for the charts BudC. All Data is a subscription shop data system that includes service bullitins, reference, and shop manuals. Many of the service departments and shops in this area use it. When checking for recommended alternate approved oils, it listed "MB229.3 Elf Excellium 0W-30"
wich is exaclty the opposite of your chart 229.1 wich, as you said, recommends against it. Dang it! I just filled the crank case with 0W-30. Would it hurt to run it for 5k then drain it? or had i better drain it today? Opinion?