I own a 2005 E320 CDI. After about 5,000 miles, my steering wheel and brake pedal began to shimmy after applying the brakes. The dealer replaced the rotors and indicated the driver's side rotor was out of tolerance. At about 15,000 miles, only the steering wheel began to shimmy again after applying the brakes. The dealer replaced the 2 hollow rubber bushing suspension arms with 2 solid rubber bushing suspension arms. The suspension felt much firmer after replacing the suspension arms. The dealer also reprogrammed the braking system because of a recall. At 25,000 miles, the steering wheel is again beginning to shimmy after applying the brakes. The brake pedal does not shimmy, however, it does feel like the brakes are going on and off during braking. The car is fantastic except for the steering wheel shimmy during braking. Help.

Curious, does the vehicle pull slightly to one side when braking at low speeds? If so, you can mention DTB P-B-33.10/21 – the lower ball joint on the side to which the vehicle pulls will be replaced.

My car does not pull to the left or right side when braking. The steering wheel does not shimmy while driving. The steering wheel only shimmies when braking. I washed the car last night and a good amount of black brake dust was emitted.
This morning, the steering wheel did not shimmy while braking and I drove the car approximately 20 miles. However, while applying the brakes, sometimes it felt like the brakes were going on and off while I was constantly applying brake pedal pressure. Not like when the ABS comes on. During my afternoon ride, the steering started to shimmy but not nearly as much as before washing the brake dust off. I feel it is a computer problem.

Then it would best to bring it in and have the SA, or better yet the shop foreman road test the vehicle.

Thank you.

Consider also DTB Order No.: P-B-33.15/16a
(as found in W211 Service DVD)

Reads like this was already done that’s why I didn’t mention this bulletin.

My check engine light went on over the weekend during a highway trip (I averaged 39 MPG during the 360 mile trip). I took my vehicle into the dealer today and the EGR valve was faulty. The technician had greatly difficulty removing the EGR valve from the manifold because it was apparently frozen. The dealer was in the process of ordering a manifold from Germany when the technician drilled two holes into the EGR valve, inserted two screws and was finally able to pull it out. I was assured that the manifold was fine and suffered no damage during the extraction. During the same visit, I discussed the wheel shimmy problem. The technician informed me that the front brake pads had caused a spot on each rotor (I had left the vehicle parked in the garage for 7 days in January and again in February. Apparently, I won't be able to take another winter vacation). This resulted in the vehicle giving the sensation of applying and releasing the brake pedal while the brake pedal was consistently being applied. The technician also stated that the rotors were not out of round, however, he identified the problem as disc thickness variation (DTV). Regardless of what it is called, both rotors and pads need to be replaced. The front brake pads have about 10% remaining and the rear brakes are not far behind. The technician suggested that I drive on a lone stretch of highway and apply the brakes one or two times without locking up the wheels (repeat on several different occasions). This might remove the shiny spots on the rotors and if it doesn't improve the braking shimmy, nothing has been lost. I did some research on the EBC website under their question and answer section. I found the referral to DTV. I do not want to replace the rotors with MB parts for a third time and this time at my expense and potentially have the same problem occur again. I am considering the EBC drilled and slotted rotors and red ceramic brake pads on all four wheels. I can't put the red ceramic pads on the front and leave the MB pads on the rear because the braking action is not similar. The dealership will install them for $600 and the rotors and pads will cost approximately $700. Any thoughts or ideas?

Not very possible with ABS, of course.

Please read akbro93704 "rotors warped again on 06 E350" posted 6/26/07. This is Dejavu again.