Front steering wheel shimmy
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Front steering wheel shimmy
I own a 2005 E320 CDI. After about 5,000 miles, my steering wheel and brake pedal began to shimmy after applying the brakes. The dealer replaced the rotors and indicated the driver's side rotor was out of tolerance. At about 15,000 miles, only the steering wheel began to shimmy again after applying the brakes. The dealer replaced the 2 hollow rubber bushing suspension arms with 2 solid rubber bushing suspension arms. The suspension felt much firmer after replacing the suspension arms. The dealer also reprogrammed the braking system because of a recall. At 25,000 miles, the steering wheel is again beginning to shimmy after applying the brakes. The brake pedal does not shimmy, however, it does feel like the brakes are going on and off during braking. The car is fantastic except for the steering wheel shimmy during braking. Help.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 15,901
Likes: 4,630
From: North Scottsdale, AZ
'71 Pinto
Curious, does the vehicle pull slightly to one side when braking at low speeds? If so, you can mention DTB P-B-33.10/21 – the lower ball joint on the side to which the vehicle pulls will be replaced.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
My car does not pull to the left or right side when braking. The steering wheel does not shimmy while driving. The steering wheel only shimmies when braking. I washed the car last night and a good amount of black brake dust was emitted.
This morning, the steering wheel did not shimmy while braking and I drove the car approximately 20 miles. However, while applying the brakes, sometimes it felt like the brakes were going on and off while I was constantly applying brake pedal pressure. Not like when the ABS comes on. During my afternoon ride, the steering started to shimmy but not nearly as much as before washing the brake dust off. I feel it is a computer problem.
This morning, the steering wheel did not shimmy while braking and I drove the car approximately 20 miles. However, while applying the brakes, sometimes it felt like the brakes were going on and off while I was constantly applying brake pedal pressure. Not like when the ABS comes on. During my afternoon ride, the steering started to shimmy but not nearly as much as before washing the brake dust off. I feel it is a computer problem.
Last edited by wolffox; Jun 2, 2007 at 12:17 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 242
From: Albuquerque
'10 CL550, '12 GL550
Consider also DTB Order No.: P-B-33.15/16a
(as found in W211 Service DVD)
(as found in W211 Service DVD)
Date: January 10, 2006
Order No.: P-B-33.15/16a
Supersedes: P-B-33.15/16 dated November 11, 2004
Group: 33
Revision:
SUBJECT: Model 211.026/056/065/070/076/256/265
Model Year 2003 through 2006
Steering Wheel Twitch During Brake Application
If you receive customer reports in the above model vehicles of a steering wheel twitch during slow speed brake applications, replace the hydro-mount or partially hollow rubber style bushings (which ever equipped) with solid rubber bushings. Reference the following WIS documents AR33.15-P-0160R (torque strut removal/installation) and AR33.15-P-0160-02T (torque strut bushing removal/installation).
Note: Do not replace the torque strut assemblies. Only replace the left and right torque strut bushings.
Note: The steering wheel twitch condition can usually be maximized during slow speed repetitive brake applications, such as those encountered during stop-and-go traffic or toll booth scenarios. Since ambient temperature may influence the overall affect of the condition, it is important to verify the condition only when the vehicle’s engine temperature is at normal operating temperature. The steering wheel rotation/twitch can occur during brake pedal application and or release.
Note: It is imperative that the condition be verified on a smooth, flat and level road surface, failure to observe the aforementioned conditions may result in needless replacement of the torque strut bushings.
Note: The originally equipped torque strut bushings (hydro-mount or partially hollow rubber) can deform under braking applications, resulting in left or right steering wheel rotation. The solid rubber bushings have an increased resilience towards deforming during suspension loading.
Parts Information
Qty. Part Name Part Number
2 Torque Strut Bushing, solid rubber A211 333 11 14
Order No.: P-B-33.15/16a
Supersedes: P-B-33.15/16 dated November 11, 2004
Group: 33
Revision:
SUBJECT: Model 211.026/056/065/070/076/256/265
Model Year 2003 through 2006
Steering Wheel Twitch During Brake Application
If you receive customer reports in the above model vehicles of a steering wheel twitch during slow speed brake applications, replace the hydro-mount or partially hollow rubber style bushings (which ever equipped) with solid rubber bushings. Reference the following WIS documents AR33.15-P-0160R (torque strut removal/installation) and AR33.15-P-0160-02T (torque strut bushing removal/installation).
Note: Do not replace the torque strut assemblies. Only replace the left and right torque strut bushings.
Note: The steering wheel twitch condition can usually be maximized during slow speed repetitive brake applications, such as those encountered during stop-and-go traffic or toll booth scenarios. Since ambient temperature may influence the overall affect of the condition, it is important to verify the condition only when the vehicle’s engine temperature is at normal operating temperature. The steering wheel rotation/twitch can occur during brake pedal application and or release.
Note: It is imperative that the condition be verified on a smooth, flat and level road surface, failure to observe the aforementioned conditions may result in needless replacement of the torque strut bushings.
Note: The originally equipped torque strut bushings (hydro-mount or partially hollow rubber) can deform under braking applications, resulting in left or right steering wheel rotation. The solid rubber bushings have an increased resilience towards deforming during suspension loading.
Parts Information
Qty. Part Name Part Number
2 Torque Strut Bushing, solid rubber A211 333 11 14
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 15,901
Likes: 4,630
From: North Scottsdale, AZ
'71 Pinto
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
My check engine light went on over the weekend during a highway trip (I averaged 39 MPG during the 360 mile trip). I took my vehicle into the dealer today and the EGR valve was faulty. The technician had greatly difficulty removing the EGR valve from the manifold because it was apparently frozen. The dealer was in the process of ordering a manifold from Germany when the technician drilled two holes into the EGR valve, inserted two screws and was finally able to pull it out. I was assured that the manifold was fine and suffered no damage during the extraction. During the same visit, I discussed the wheel shimmy problem. The technician informed me that the front brake pads had caused a spot on each rotor (I had left the vehicle parked in the garage for 7 days in January and again in February. Apparently, I won't be able to take another winter vacation). This resulted in the vehicle giving the sensation of applying and releasing the brake pedal while the brake pedal was consistently being applied. The technician also stated that the rotors were not out of round, however, he identified the problem as disc thickness variation (DTV). Regardless of what it is called, both rotors and pads need to be replaced. The front brake pads have about 10% remaining and the rear brakes are not far behind. The technician suggested that I drive on a lone stretch of highway and apply the brakes one or two times without locking up the wheels (repeat on several different occasions). This might remove the shiny spots on the rotors and if it doesn't improve the braking shimmy, nothing has been lost. I did some research on the EBC website under their question and answer section. I found the referral to DTV. I do not want to replace the rotors with MB parts for a third time and this time at my expense and potentially have the same problem occur again. I am considering the EBC drilled and slotted rotors and red ceramic brake pads on all four wheels. I can't put the red ceramic pads on the front and leave the MB pads on the rear because the braking action is not similar. The dealership will install them for $600 and the rotors and pads will cost approximately $700. Any thoughts or ideas?
Last edited by wolffox; Jun 28, 2007 at 06:23 AM.
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 242
From: Albuquerque
'10 CL550, '12 GL550
