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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 05:39 PM
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Anyone here replace their own brake fluid?

I'm due for a service "C" and plan on performing it myself. Most of it is stupid simple; oil change, filters, etc. My only hesitation is with the brake bleed. I've done brake bleeds on my BMW, but the SBC system in the Benz has me concerned. I have a motive power bleeder. Should I just hook it up and go to work?...or do I need to disconnect the SBC? I thought I read a post about the SBC being an issue, but I just did a search and couldn't find a definite answer. Anyone with any experience with this?
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 09:01 PM
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You will need the mercedes computer to help you flush and bleed the system.
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 02:39 AM
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makes your daughter horny
Originally Posted by E211 2NV
You will need the mercedes computer to help you flush and bleed the system.
Can you please elaborate? I know on most cars you need a computer to activate the ABS in order to FULLY flush the system.

Wont you be able to bleed to brakes without the computer? Many on this forum say yes, but thus far I have been afraid to do so...
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 05:03 PM
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You can bleed the system if you have a c clamp that can compress the piston together, this will help you bleed the system. But to fully flush out your brake fluid, you will need mercedes computer to do so.
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 05:07 PM
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One CAN Flush Out AND Bleed the SBC cars WITHOUT using the Star

Its been Done!
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 02:13 PM
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Mee too

I am ready for the brake service too, is there anything special or hook up power bleed crack bleeder and make sure resevoir is full. I hate paying people to work on stuff for me. I always swear if I have to take it to the dealer for everything I will buy something else. Internet is great.
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MARK CUMMINS
One CAN Flush Out AND Bleed the SBC cars WITHOUT using the Star

Its been Done!
I'm a believer. It was said that brake pads weren't DIY b/c of SBC, but I did mine recently (with reassurance that others had done it on this forum). I was just checking to see if there were any tricks related to the SBC before performing the flush.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MARK CUMMINS
One CAN Flush Out AND Bleed the SBC cars WITHOUT using the Star

Its been Done!
Mark,

Because of the many posts you provided about this, I went ahead a couple of months ago and bought a Motive bleeder and a liter of ATE blue and bled mine. No problems!! I took me longer to get the car up on 4 jack stands and remove the wheels than to do the bleeding procedure -- whole job was an hour.

Thanks for your encouragement!

Regards,
paul...
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 10:27 AM
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Paul,, Did you just pressurize the bleeder/master cylinder then open each bleed screw until it ran clear fluid? Or did you have to open and refill the master cylinder when using the Bleeder. Jim

I didn't have to flush mine,, 2000 miles ago the SBC failed and MB replaced all the braking parts which included brake flush. So I won't have to do it for a while.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 01:07 PM
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My bleeder works from the wheel side, I can push fluid into the system, handy on old American Junk from time to time, or I can pull fluid through which is how I usually do it. Using this method you have to keep an eye on your master or you run dry. I had a bleeder years ago that pushed from the master but the fit was very specific and not universal. So to get a final answer to the question do you have to disconnect any of the electrical or can you just bleed it out like an old chevy and go. Granted using proper fluid not dot 3.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by E211 2NV
You will need the mercedes computer to help you flush and bleed the system.
You do have SBC on your car right? Ask them to do a recall on the SBC system, they'll install the "pulsation damper" for it. During the process they can bleed out your brake system for free.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by paulv
Mark,

Because of the many posts you provided about this, I went ahead a couple of months ago and bought a Motive bleeder and a liter of ATE blue and bled mine. No problems!! I took me longer to get the car up on 4 jack stands and remove the wheels than to do the bleeding procedure -- whole job was an hour.

Thanks for your encouragement!

Regards,
paul...
Cool. That's what I wanted to hear!
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
Paul,, Did you just pressurize the bleeder/master cylinder then open each bleed screw until it ran clear fluid? Or did you have to open and refill the master cylinder when using the Bleeder. Jim

I didn't have to flush mine,, 2000 miles ago the SBC failed and MB replaced all the braking parts which included brake flush. So I won't have to do it for a while.
Hi Jim,

I first hooked up the bleeder to the master cylinder and pressurized to 10psi as the Motive directions state (to check for leaks). After watching the gauge for a bout 10 mins with no loss of pressure, I opened the Motive unit and filled it with 1 L of ATE blue. Closed up the Motive unit and pumped until the gauge read 20psi, and then started the bleed process. Closed each bleeder valve at the caliper when the new fluid got dark blue. Besides great specs, ATE fluid comes in 2 colors (blue and amber) so people can alternate which makes it easy to see when the old fluid is out.

Sounds like you can enjoy the next 2 years before you have to do this again.

Regards,
paul...
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 08:10 AM
  #14  
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When I topped off with fluid from my brake job I bought ATE SL fluid dot 4 to use. If I remember correctly there was a special additive for the SBC. Does the Blue meet the spec,, I might use it next time.

This is what I found for the ATE SL fluid.

Brake fluid transmits the pressure applied to the brake pedal by the driver to the brakes themselves. Since the introduction of electronic systems like ABS (Anti-Lock Brake System) and ESP (Electronic Stability Program), brake fluid has become increasing important. The hydraulic units of these systems have a large number of small bores and ducts, some of them smaller in diameter than a human hair. Additionally, ESP systems rely on brake fluid to help decelerate individual wheels in fractions of a second in order to stabilize the vehicle in critical situations (e.g. a skid).

ATE's SL.6 Brake Fluid is a thin-bodied brake fluid designed to optimally work with these systems and meets and exceeds FMVSS§571.116, DOT 4/DOT 3, SAE J1703 as well as ISO 4925, Class 6 requirements. Most vehicle manufacturers already use the low-viscosity DOT 4, Class 6 (ISO 4925) brake fluids in production cars (OEM and OES).

Last edited by vettdvr; Apr 2, 2008 at 08:15 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 08:44 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
When I topped off with fluid from my brake job I bought ATE SL fluid dot 4 to use. If I remember correctly there was a special additive for the SBC. Does the Blue meet the spec,, I might use it next time.

This is what I found for the ATE SL fluid.

Brake fluid transmits the pressure applied to the brake pedal by the driver to the brakes themselves. Since the introduction of electronic systems like ABS (Anti-Lock Brake System) and ESP (Electronic Stability Program), brake fluid has become increasing important. The hydraulic units of these systems have a large number of small bores and ducts, some of them smaller in diameter than a human hair. Additionally, ESP systems rely on brake fluid to help decelerate individual wheels in fractions of a second in order to stabilize the vehicle in critical situations (e.g. a skid).

ATE's SL.6 Brake Fluid is a thin-bodied brake fluid designed to optimally work with these systems and meets and exceeds FMVSS§571.116, DOT 4/DOT 3, SAE J1703 as well as ISO 4925, Class 6 requirements. Most vehicle manufacturers already use the low-viscosity DOT 4, Class 6 (ISO 4925) brake fluids in production cars (OEM and OES).

I'm not familiar with the ATE SL, but their Super Blue/Amber meets the Super 4 or 4+ specs.

Regards,
paul...
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 08:21 AM
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The ATE SL states in their literature it meets the SBC spec. Didn't know the blue was being made.
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
The ATE SL states in their literature it meets the SBC spec. Didn't know the blue was being made.
I went over to the ATE website and the SL.6 replaces the Super Dot 4 which is the Euro equivalent of the US Dot 4+ (unless I have this reversed). The Dot 4+ is what was listed in my MB fluids book that came with the car.

Also, ATE rates their brake fluids' viscosity at a temp of -40 C, so I put a call to their tech people to find out if they have viscosity measures for other temps -- will post when Iget the info.

Regards,
paul...
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 11:06 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by paulv
I went over to the ATE website and the SL.6 replaces the Super Dot 4 which is the Euro equivalent of the US Dot 4+ (unless I have this reversed). The Dot 4+ is what was listed in my MB fluids book that came with the car.

Also, ATE rates their brake fluids' viscosity at a temp of -40 C, so I put a call to their tech people to find out if they have viscosity measures for other temps -- will post when Iget the info.

Regards,
paul...
Thanks Paul for the additional information. Jim
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:33 AM
  #19  
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DIY brake bleeder

I am collecting parts to build one of these. Looks like the O/E reservoir cap will be the only piece not sourced from Ace or Home Depot






http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 01:09 PM
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Just to complete the circle.... I bled the brake lines this weekend, no problems at all. I used ATE racing blue brake fluid and a pressure bleeder. I removed as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible with some tubing and a 75cc syringe, then filled to the top with fresh fluid. I used the pressure bleeder just to add the air pressure. When I finished, I just topped off the reservoir. The rest of my service "C" was easy too. Oil change, used a Motive topsider, oil filter, air filters, etc. I had changed my brake pads recently, so I quickly examined those and noted one of my sensor wires had frayed and broken. Replaced that sensor and my brake warning message went away. All in all, not too challenging and I saved alot of $$$.
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Old Oct 6, 2008 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by paulv
Hi Jim,

I first hooked up the bleeder to the master cylinder and pressurized to 10psi as the Motive directions state (to check for leaks). After watching the gauge for a bout 10 mins with no loss of pressure, I opened the Motive unit and filled it with 1 L of ATE blue. Closed up the Motive unit and pumped until the gauge read 20psi, and then started the bleed process. Closed each bleeder valve at the caliper when the new fluid got dark blue. Besides great specs, ATE fluid comes in 2 colors (blue and amber) so people can alternate which makes it easy to see when the old fluid is out.

Sounds like you can enjoy the next 2 years before you have to do this again.

Regards,
paul...
Paulv
Have you disabled the SBC prior to perform brake fluid flush ??? My car has with SBC....
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 02:58 PM
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SL.6 should be the right fluid for SBC. I put Super Blue Racing. The pump is now cycling more frequent than before. SBR fluid viscosity is too high. Pressure is harder to build up?
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