E-Class (W211) 2003-2009
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Red battery message ( Visit workshop)

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Old 12-27-2008, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by phoenixdragon
Been browsing the MB STAR 2008.

The recommended procedure is to follow the DAS MB STAR which will invoke the WIS net to diagnose.

What I just seen are ad-hoc methods.
phoenixdragon Welcome to the site.

I would consider my test valid even with out STAR.


Ad Hoc Test Method

1) Verify Alternator, diodes and regulator fully functional.
2) full load test of the main bat showed voltage 12.6 or better engine off
3) Main battery full load cranking amps passed and full amperage load passed
4) Aux battery verifed at 12 V+ with engine running.
5) Aux battery verifed at 10 V with engine off.

Given the Aux battery is a 12 V AGM battery voltage should be above 12V when off. The 10 v indicated 1 cell is dropping out.

There were no other messages in FSS other than visit workshop. All convience items worked normal.

The alternator / regulator test verified the alternator was charging, diodes all functional (no wave pattern on scope missing).

Therefore the conclusion was the Aux battery has failed 1 cell and therefore needs replacing.

Now consider it takes me 2 days to drive to a MB dealer and 200 miles plug about 8 hours of my time. Given I don't have a Star machine I think my test are valid.

I agree the MB Star system would come to the same conclusion and had MB had dealers closer I would have used them. But given MB has been building cars since 1800's and alternators still use diodes and regulators coupled with not everyone owning a Star system there are other methods of testing electrical equipment.

I still consider my Ad Hoc method a valid test method.

But are we having fun and learning something new every day.
Old 12-27-2008, 11:25 AM
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I completed the aux battery change and confirmed after removal my test was correct. The bat was only producing 10.2V with one cell dead. The new aux bat and all is well, no more red lights or warnings.
Old 12-27-2008, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
I completed the aux battery change and confirmed after removal my test was correct. The bat was only producing 10.2V with one cell dead. The new aux bat and all is well, no more red lights or warnings.

Which battery did you end up buying?
Old 12-27-2008, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by locomercedes
Which battery did you end up buying?
Due to not being able to mail order I had 2 mb dealers.

1 wanted $185
the other wanted $140. So I drove 100 miles to get the $140.

It is the correct battery but with the old one on the shelf I really think there is a generic in store battery we can use as replacement. Next time the car will be out of warranty and I will use the generic. Next week I plan to go to local supplier MB battery in hand to see if I can find a replacement. I really think there is one that will work.

Did partsplus cancel your order also.?
Old 12-27-2008, 03:09 PM
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No, at least not yet. I went to parts.com to check my order and it says shipped, local truck delivery. There is a note in the bottom saying "cannot ship fedex or ups due to dangerous materials". But if they cancel it, i'll probably try to get a generic replacement battery, maybe an interstate battery, like this one http://www.interstatebatteries.com/c...~38-4294487291

Last edited by locomercedes; 12-27-2008 at 03:19 PM.
Old 12-27-2008, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by locomercedes
No, at least not yet. I went to parts.com to check my order and it says shipped, local truck delivery. There is a note in the bottom saying "cannot ship fedex or ups due to dangerous materials". But if they cancel it, i'll probably try to get a generic replacement battery, maybe an interstate battery, like this one http://www.interstatebatteries.com/c...~38-4294487291
They did tell me they would ship within local Florida so perhaps that is why you are getting one.

The interstate looks like a good choice as replacement. I did a local store check and found one within 5 miles. My car is still under warranty but they would not warranty this battery. The owners manual states bat's are not warrantied but since this car has the sbc brakes I was wondering.....??? but guess it isn't.

I still plan to take my old MB battery in hand to a local shop to find a direct fit replacement. Given I have to drive over 100 miles to get one and no one will ship I will have to find a better replacement.

Last edited by vettdvr; 12-27-2008 at 03:52 PM.
Old 12-27-2008, 08:42 PM
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I am not under warranty, that's why that didn't play a role in my choice. Is MB giving you warranty on the battery since you bought directly from them and you're still under warranty? Also, if you are under warranty, they would not cover the battery under warranty?

On another note, I just came from Walmart and they do have an Everstart maxx motorcycle battery 14BS, AGM technology for $70 with 3 year free replacement and 9 years prorated warranty. I opened the box and looks like it would fit. Everstart batteries are made by Johnson Controls, which incidentally tried to acquire Fiamm batteries (the maker of the aux MB battery) last year. http://www.reuters.com/article/merge...AS867720070430
Old 12-28-2008, 12:16 AM
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Thumbs up battery message

Hi all,

I replaced the auxillary battery under the hood and the red message at the cluster check battery disappeared, thanks for all the ideas and the suggestions. The auxillary battery was the problem for that message.

thanks again.
Old 12-28-2008, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by locomercedes
I am not under warranty, that's why that didn't play a role in my choice. Is MB giving you warranty on the battery since you bought directly from them and you're still under warranty? Also, if you are under warranty, they would not cover the battery under warranty?

[/URL]
I thought the warranty might cover it. Given the SBC brakes are electronic and this battery is part of that system. The service mgr told me it was not covered, but my service mgr was out on Christmas vacation. So I will check with him next time.

I also found a battery I think will work Interstate CYTX 14-BS and Delco GTX 14-BS. IT looks like the size is the 14-BS and the other letters determine if agm or lead/acid.

I pulled the caps off of the FIAMM bat and found acid so it looks like a lead acid battery to me.

The only thing I didn't measure was the metric bolt size in the wiring harness.
The FIAMM has a threaded post and I am not sure the others have threads but use a nut in the post that slides into the open slot.
Old 12-28-2008, 10:12 AM
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I think that both AGM and regular lead acid batteries use acid. At the beginning of my search for the replacement battery I thought AGM was a non-acid technology, but I found out this --->


" AGM (Absorption Glass Mat) sealed battery technology was originally developed in 1985 for military aircraft where power, weight, safety, and reliability were paramount considerations.

AGM battery technology has continued to develop and offer improvements over other sealed battery technologies. AGM technology has become the next step in the evolution of both starting and deep cycle sealed batteries for marine, RV, and aviation applications. This "next generation" technology delivers increased safety, performance, and service life over all other existing sealed battery types, including gel technology.

In AGM sealed batteries, the acid is absorbed between the plates and immobilized by a very fine fiberglass mat. No silica gel is necessary. This glass mat absorbs and immobilizes the acid while still keeping the acid available to the plates. This allows a fast reaction between acid and plate material.

The AGM battery has an extremely low internal electrical resistance. This, combined with faster acid migration, allows the AGM batteries to deliver and absorb higher rates of amperage than other sealed batteries during discharging and charging. In addition, AGM technology batteries can be charged at normal lead-acid regulated charging voltages, therefore, it is not necessary to recalibrate charging systems or purchase special chargers. "
Old 12-28-2008, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
The FIAMM has a threaded post and I am not sure the others have threads but use a nut in the post that slides into the open slot.

Yeah, I agree with you. I think it would be a matter of only adding a nut to the existing bolt.
Old 12-28-2008, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by locomercedes
In addition, AGM technology batteries can be charged at normal lead-acid regulated charging voltages, therefore, it is not necessary to recalibrate charging systems or purchase special chargers. "
Good information. When I pulled the caps on the MB bat it looked like liquid inside? I will check before I have the bat recycled. I am suspecious it is just a lead acid battery with a Mercedes applied tax. Just a motorcycle battery in Mercedes(sheeps) clothing.
Old 12-28-2008, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sami
Hi all,

I replaced the auxillary battery under the hood and the red message at the cluster check battery disappeared, thanks for all the ideas and the suggestions. The auxillary battery was the problem for that message.

thanks again.
Excellent! Glad this helped someone

Last edited by locomercedes; 12-28-2008 at 10:36 AM.
Old 12-29-2008, 12:03 PM
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Update. I went to Autozone with the MB (dead bat) in my hand and found a Autozone replacement for $69.99. Autozone GTX 14-BX FG AGM battery

Next time I will buy this autozone battery and save the $90 from the MB tax. Note this is also cheaper than (if you could) mail order and Autozone is within 2 miles of my home vs driving 200 miles to the dealer for the battery. So consider this battery next time you need one. Hope this helps others who will need this battery.
Old 12-29-2008, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
Update. I went to Autozone with the MB (dead bat) in my hand and found a Autozone replacement for $69.99. Autozone GTX 14-BX FG AGM battery

Next time I will buy this autozone battery and save the $90 from the MB tax. Note this is also cheaper than (if you could) mail order and Autozone is within 2 miles of my home vs driving 200 miles to the dealer for the battery. So consider this battery next time you need one. Hope this helps others who will need this battery.
Thats good to know. I'm sure this will help many people in the near future.

I just received mine today and installed it

OLD BATTERY:

Red battery message ( Visit workshop)-dsc_0997.jpg


NEW BATTERY:

Red battery message ( Visit workshop)-dsc_0980-1.jpg

Notice the build dates. My old battery was exactly 5 years old. Also notice the design on the top is slightly different, but size wise is otherwise the same.

After following the disconnect/reconnect procedure, I got 2 error messages ( headlight cornering and ESP). I normalized the ESP (complete wheel lock right, then left). Success! All the error messages (including the red battery message) are gone.

Last edited by locomercedes; 12-30-2008 at 08:14 PM.
Old 12-29-2008, 03:13 PM
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You might have to normalize the windows and sun roof.
Old 12-30-2008, 07:15 PM
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WHAT HE SAID
Originally Posted by MARK CUMMINS
I Think You have a Charging system problem
Voltage regulator or Battery Control unit..Both KNOWN Problems on the early W211s...Very easy to check charging system

Call MB Roadside if its Still Under MB Warranty
Old 12-30-2008, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by blas0827
WHAT HE SAID
Did you notice the OP solved his red battery problem by only replacing the aux battery?
Old 01-17-2009, 02:25 PM
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hey guys i just changed my aux battery and i read this thread... i went to advance auto parts and picked an extreme sports agm battery and installed and no problems. a couple of modifications i had to make were i had to bend the connector straight and pull the wires more over cause the battery terminals were located alittle more forward. and it was just a bit taller than the original so i took out the dampener pad but other than that it was a pretty clean install i'll post some pics alittle later with part no. i got it for 98.02 with tax
Old 01-17-2009, 03:07 PM
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here's a pic of the install... this battery should last longer than the original it is rated at twice the amph





in this pic i had to remove the pad that was between the bars and i had to bend the contacts straight the screws were a perfect fit into the holes

this confirms all it is is a glorified motorcycle battery

Last edited by Nickthegreek; 01-17-2009 at 03:10 PM.
Old 01-17-2009, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Nickthegreek
here's a pic of the install... this battery should last longer than the original it is rated at twice the amph





in this pic i had to remove the pad that was between the bars and i had to bend the contacts straight the screws were a perfect fit into the holes

this confirms all it is is a glorified motorcycle battery
Nice!
Old 01-17-2009, 04:27 PM
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thnx now everyone will know right where to tell the stealership to put it... :rofl:
Old 01-17-2009, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Nickthegreek
thnx now everyone will know right where to tell the stealership to put it... :rofl:
I am glad the one you picked did the job for you. I will certainly use autozone for future replacments.

After buying a bat from the dealer for $140+ I found another good choice from Autozone would be the Autozone GTX 14-BX FG AGM for for $69.99.
Old 01-17-2009, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
I am glad the one you picked did the job for you. I will certainly use autozone for future replacments.

After buying a bat from the dealer for $140+ I found another good choice from Autozone would be the Autozone GTX 14-BX FG AGM for for $69.99.
i was thinking about getting that one actually but the autozone near me didn't have it. No need to visit the stealership anymore. wondering what the amph rating on the autozone one is.
Old 01-17-2009, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Nickthegreek
i was thinking about getting that one actually but the autozone near me didn't have it. No need to visit the stealership anymore. wondering what the amph rating on the autozone one is.
The one I listed matches the OEM battery. Nothing wrong with using what you did given they didn't have the one I listed. Yours will have greater capacity which may or may not last longer. But it will give you more reserve for the braking system and electrical if your primary electrical system fails.


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