chirping from the heater/ac fan
If I turn the blower speed higher or lower, the chirping sound stops. Unfortunately, the auto blower control has the fan at the chirping speed 99% of the time.
Anyone ever experience this and fixed it?
If I turn the blower speed higher or lower, the chirping sound stops. Unfortunately, the auto blower control has the fan at the chirping speed 99% of the time.
Anyone ever experience this and fixed it?
If I turn the blower speed higher or lower, the chirping sound stops. Unfortunately, the auto blower control has the fan at the chirping speed 99% of the time.
Anyone ever experience this and fixed it?
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I wonder if it's easy enough to get to the blower motor as a do-it-yourself project ? Would be nice to lookup in the MB service software to see how difficult it is to get to the motor.
This has been documented pretty thoroughly. The Behr motor waqs about $130 several years ago. It is an OEM part. I am posting the write up I did several years ago
I have found so much useful info on this bord, I decided to document this fairly simple repair in appreciation of all those who have gone before me.
This was documented on our 2003 E 320 with ANALOG controls
First, remove the front passenger floor mat and get something to cushion your knees. If over 40, go ahead and take some Aleve.
You will need a few tools (image 055)
I used a #25 torx bit to remove the panel (image 54) that is held by two machine screws. It is accessible directly beneath the glove box. There is a built in duct that directs air to your feet, care in removing it by flexing it slightly . It was somewhat difficult to re- install. Note that the cover square duct goes OVER (outside) of the dampered portion of the heater duct. There is one friction plug as well as the two screws. There is a plug that powers the lamp, pinch and tug gently to disconnect.
Now we have exposed the bottom of the fan compartment (image 053)
There are 4 torx screws that need a #20 bit. Three are deep in plastic wells and are not visible. You must feel for the bit to engage and turn them cw.
The one in the rear that is surface visible required a short shank #20 torx bit and a 1/4 in drive because of clearance to the floorboard. These are a ***** to put back. You need either a magnetic tip or a telescoping sleeve used with battery drills to support the screw while you bullseye it blindly in the recessed hole. Scotch tape did not work for me.
You should be able to "crack" the bottom cover Slide it carefully along the wire and expose the plug on the bottom of the speed controller. Pinch it hard and gently tug. The fan is now free of encumberances save the 4 screws.
There are 4 each #20 torx screws that hold the fan inside of the scroll cage.
Support the fan with your hand or a short stick and remove all four screws.
Your fan should look like image 046.
Image 038 shows empty scroll cage after fan is removed.
Remove the fan speed controller (two #20 torx) and fan power plug (same drill, pinch and tug gently)
Your old fan should now look like image 043.
Now reattch the controller to the new unit. Should look like image 046 again.
Insert the fan/ controller back into the void scroll cage.
You must hold the fan with one hand and insert at least two screws hand tight before allowing it to hang. Install the two remaining screws and tighten all. Attch plug back into controller
Reinstall the fan compartment cover with the three deep well screws and one surface mount- image 053. Reinstall wire in two plastic looms
Reinstall large knee cover with two machine screws #25 torx and make sure the duct is engaged. Screws won't align unless it is correct.
Test motor. Annoying squeak is gone for a few more years.
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I'm out of warranty.
, describe the problem, ask them to fix it, Then open your wallet