Air Conditioning/Heating Problem
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
2005 E320
Air Conditioning/Heating Problem
Hello. I have a 2005 E320 with four-zone climate control thermotronic. The weather has been getting warmer here in Toronto so today I decided to turn the A/C on.
What I noticed is that ONLY HEAT is coming from all the grilles in the backseat even when the setting in the backseat is set to 12C or to all LOs. There are 4 grilles in the backseat (2 in the middle, 1 in the left vertical pillar by the door, and 1 in the right). Cold air is coming through all the front grilles.
What is going on??? I had to manually turn off (block) the hot air from coming through to the backseat passengers to accommodate them as it was getting really hot.
Any thoughts?
What I noticed is that ONLY HEAT is coming from all the grilles in the backseat even when the setting in the backseat is set to 12C or to all LOs. There are 4 grilles in the backseat (2 in the middle, 1 in the left vertical pillar by the door, and 1 in the right). Cold air is coming through all the front grilles.
What is going on??? I had to manually turn off (block) the hot air from coming through to the backseat passengers to accommodate them as it was getting really hot.
Any thoughts?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 8,137
Likes: 26
From: Maryland
Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
Hello. I have a 2005 E320 with four-zone climate control thermotronic. The weather has been getting warmer here in Toronto so today I decided to turn the A/C on.
What I noticed is that ONLY HEAT is coming from all the grilles in the backseat even when the setting in the backseat is set to 12C or to all LOs. There are 4 grilles in the backseat (2 in the middle, 1 in the left vertical pillar by the door, and 1 in the right). Cold air is coming through all the front grilles.
What is going on??? I had to manually turn off (block) the hot air from coming through to the backseat passengers to accommodate them as it was getting really hot.
Any thoughts?
What I noticed is that ONLY HEAT is coming from all the grilles in the backseat even when the setting in the backseat is set to 12C or to all LOs. There are 4 grilles in the backseat (2 in the middle, 1 in the left vertical pillar by the door, and 1 in the right). Cold air is coming through all the front grilles.
What is going on??? I had to manually turn off (block) the hot air from coming through to the backseat passengers to accommodate them as it was getting really hot.
Any thoughts?
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...rol-valve.html
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
2005 E320
Thanks so much!!!
Any idea how much would the parts cost and where to get it from? Alternatively, my next service is coming up soon. How much would this cost approximately if we do this in-house at the dealership? Is this covered by warranty?
Any idea how much would the parts cost and where to get it from? Alternatively, my next service is coming up soon. How much would this cost approximately if we do this in-house at the dealership? Is this covered by warranty?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 8,137
Likes: 26
From: Maryland
Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
If your car is under warranty, of course it would be covered. As far a price for the part, read the thread I linked you to. The part number is in there.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
2005 E320
Additionally, on a more interesting note, this problem has resolved itself by this morning. I turned the A/C on and it releases cold air. I switched to the heater and it releases hot air.
Is this normal or should I be worried about relapse?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,017
Likes: 16
From: Ft. Lauderdale Area, USA
2015 ML 350
Thanks! I realized that the first time around. I don't know anything about cars and therefore I'm just a wee bit confused as to how to find out how much this part costs, apart from knowing the part number.
Additionally, on a more interesting note, this problem has resolved itself by this morning. I turned the A/C on and it releases cold air. I switched to the heater and it releases hot air.
Is this normal or should I be worried about relapse?
Additionally, on a more interesting note, this problem has resolved itself by this morning. I turned the A/C on and it releases cold air. I switched to the heater and it releases hot air.
Is this normal or should I be worried about relapse?
Back when I first experienced this phenomenom on my '04 people thought I was crazy... no one had ever heard of it. It is now a well known problem with a well documented cure.
Fix it now while its still cool out. Its not an optional repair. Any time you bring it to the Dealership, its likely that it will appear to be working normally so waiting will do nothing for you.
Last edited by Barry45RPM; Apr 13, 2009 at 03:03 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 8,137
Likes: 26
From: Maryland
Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
Thanks! I realized that the first time around. I don't know anything about cars and therefore I'm just a wee bit confused as to how to find out how much this part costs, apart from knowing the part number.
Additionally, on a more interesting note, this problem has resolved itself by this morning. I turned the A/C on and it releases cold air. I switched to the heater and it releases hot air.
Is this normal or should I be worried about relapse?
Additionally, on a more interesting note, this problem has resolved itself by this morning. I turned the A/C on and it releases cold air. I switched to the heater and it releases hot air.
Is this normal or should I be worried about relapse?
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
2005 E320
Yeah, I bet it's gonna need to be changed soon. If it were me, I'd wait until it did it again, then swap it out. But if my car were under warranty, I'd take it in and have it replaced now. Very common problem on these cars and the dealer shouldn't hassle you about changing it.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 8,137
Likes: 26
From: Maryland
Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
The part was $42 with MB club discount. The dealer wanted $450 to do this job, so it's well worth the DIY.
Allow about 2-3 hours for this job. In another thread someone claims it only took 35 minutes, but I don't know how that's possible, even for a pro.
I have very small hands and it was very hard to reach things - if you have very large hands you may not be able to get this done by yourself.
--Open the hood to the fully open service position (push in the tab on the interior side of the hinge, one on each side of the car)
I had a very hard time prying the 4 black plastic rivets out, I ended up destroying them so I need to buy new ones (you can live without them for a few days).
The metal clips: pulling them with the coat hanger worked easily for one of them, but the other two I had to pry the end free with my finger to get it started which raised up one side a bit, them pull with the hanger.
The one facing towards the passenger side was not visible until I climbed up onto the car and stuck my face right down in the area.
After removing the first hose from the engine bay, fully remove the circle rubber grommet between the engine bay and the firewall area - this lets you reach in through the hole to maneuver the part.
The hose clamp is the hardest part - it takes a lot of force to fully open it, so needle nose pliers didn't work very well. Use a small locking pliers and grab it vertically from straight down. Do this after unclipping the 3 metal clips to the other hoses, as you can them move the part around to get it in position.
I moved the hose clamp back a few inches then removed the pliers - you need the space to reach in to pull the hose off. One technique is to hold the part in place by reaching through the circle hole.
I undid the electrical connector last as it was hard to get to otherwise.
When installing the new valve:
-electrical plug first
-large hose with hose clamp next (you need to be able to brace it against the driver's side of the car, against a tool handle etc).
-the two outlets towards the rear of the car next (leave the clips closed and just push them as mentioned about - it did take a lot of force to get them to click into place)
-reinstall rubber circular grommet
-engine bay hose
Allow about 2-3 hours for this job. In another thread someone claims it only took 35 minutes, but I don't know how that's possible, even for a pro.
I have very small hands and it was very hard to reach things - if you have very large hands you may not be able to get this done by yourself.
--Open the hood to the fully open service position (push in the tab on the interior side of the hinge, one on each side of the car)
I had a very hard time prying the 4 black plastic rivets out, I ended up destroying them so I need to buy new ones (you can live without them for a few days).
The metal clips: pulling them with the coat hanger worked easily for one of them, but the other two I had to pry the end free with my finger to get it started which raised up one side a bit, them pull with the hanger.
The one facing towards the passenger side was not visible until I climbed up onto the car and stuck my face right down in the area.
After removing the first hose from the engine bay, fully remove the circle rubber grommet between the engine bay and the firewall area - this lets you reach in through the hole to maneuver the part.
The hose clamp is the hardest part - it takes a lot of force to fully open it, so needle nose pliers didn't work very well. Use a small locking pliers and grab it vertically from straight down. Do this after unclipping the 3 metal clips to the other hoses, as you can them move the part around to get it in position.
I moved the hose clamp back a few inches then removed the pliers - you need the space to reach in to pull the hose off. One technique is to hold the part in place by reaching through the circle hole.
I undid the electrical connector last as it was hard to get to otherwise.
When installing the new valve:
-electrical plug first
-large hose with hose clamp next (you need to be able to brace it against the driver's side of the car, against a tool handle etc).
-the two outlets towards the rear of the car next (leave the clips closed and just push them as mentioned about - it did take a lot of force to get them to click into place)
-reinstall rubber circular grommet
-engine bay hose
Almost a Member!
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Canada
a car
might I suggest the following:
- get the part number.
- call a few dealers for a price (not all dealers price parts the same).
if you want to know how much it costs to install ask the parts person how much time it takes to replace, according to the service manual.
G.
- get the part number.
- call a few dealers for a price (not all dealers price parts the same).
if you want to know how much it costs to install ask the parts person how much time it takes to replace, according to the service manual.
G.
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 811
Likes: 5
From: Bay Area
08' S550, 04' E320 4matic, 03' Acura TL-S 6 speed, 1968 Vespa P150
List price is $35 from stealer.
plus less than an hour of elbow grease. It's definitely something anyone with a few simple tools can do. The stealer would want, $160 diagnostic fees for a start and then they'll talk with u about the other fees.
plus less than an hour of elbow grease. It's definitely something anyone with a few simple tools can do. The stealer would want, $160 diagnostic fees for a start and then they'll talk with u about the other fees.
