007_e350

I still think the Castrol MB229.5 compatible Syntec 0-30w is far better than this crap mobil-1 (0-40w). I was also able to find this wear n tear comparison on the internet (attached), any thoughts if I should switch to Castrol Syntec 0-30w ?

Barry45RPM

Mobil1 meets the car manufacturers specs. What you're asking is the same as "are diamonds from this mine longer lasting than diamonds from that mine?" What's the difference in the long run for the amount of time you (and the next owner) going to own this vehicle?

007_e350

Castrol Syntec 0-30w meets the specs too. and its exaclty the same price as mobil-1 0-40w ($6.99 a quart) .... I want my car to last 300k + (engine atleast )

Diesel Benz

Why don't you then select the best oil from the test?

Are you sure this is the typical wear type in the engine? Perhaps the limiting factor is something different than the one tested and then you might select a worse oil brand.

Also I'm not familiar with Mobil oil naming in the US, is this mobil oil that was tested the same 229.5(1) oil that MB recommends?

jabo

If you refer back to the chart that was posted, you'll note that the Mobil 1 used was 5W-30 which is NOT a fully synthetic oil in most cases. This is just a ploy to sell dino oil at inflated prices.

Mobil 1 0W-40 is a better oil and is fully synthetic and should have performed on par with the Syntec version in the chart. Unfortunately, 0W-40 was not used in the comparison.

terabyte

Mobil 1 5W30 is NOT a full synthetic and is not a MB 229.5 spec oil for Mercedes

bigben320e

+100 guys, in order for this to be a "real comparison" it must be the fully spec'd oil recommended by MB. Mobil1, full synthetic.

Where is the chart on that?

vettdvr

Why not just use the Havoline and not worry about it as it is also lower wear and cheaper than M1 0w40?

Let me know how it works out I will continue with 0w40 M1

uberwgn

Mobil 1 0W40 is an excellent product, yields excellent results, is readily available, is recommended by the mfr AND meets the MBz 229.5 spec.

Comparing this to another Mobil 1 product and attempting to form a comparison is "sheer" folly

GDawgC220

There's quite a bit of talk between M1 0w-40 and GC 0w-30. Usually GC (German Castrol) comes out on top as the better oil of the two...specs, wear properties, ht/hs, oil analysis' done, etc. GC doesn't sheer compared to 0w-40 from what I've been reading. There are tons of discussions of this the oil forums. Also, GC meets MB/BMW/Audi specs.

GC is made in Germany (the only Castrol sold here that is made in Germany, all others are U.S. made) while M1 is made in the U.S. Most U.S. "synthetic" oils are not true synthetics compared to the stuff made over in Europe. There are a few good articles on the net about this. There has also been debate in the past with 0w-40 on whether it is a true synthetic or not but recently they started adding PAO into 0w-40.

You can always do a oil analysis on both and see how they perform in your engine. This would probably be your best option. $20 from Blackstone Labs for an UOA (used oil analysis). If you go on their site, they send you a used oil sample collection kit for free.

uberwgn

There would be no issues using the Castrol product since it meets MBz specs.

GDawgC220

Yep. Give it a try and see if you like it. There's no harm done in trying different oils.

gaiex

I'm a Euro Member and I was planning to switch to M1 in the next service, but after reading some stuff I may continue with Castrol Edge oil.

But I have some questions in my mind... I have a 2003 220CDI, and till 60k km I used the oil my MB dealer put in, but in the 60k service I gave them Castrol 0w30 to use, and after that I started to hear some clicking noises from the engine, only when hot!!!
The noise is still there, even after I changed it to Castrol 5w30 on the 100k km service.
Now the car have 130k and still running with 5w30 (used by MB dealer, not me this time) and I'm thinking start using some other oil 5w40 as recommend by some friends, but an w40 oil is ticker at higher temps or what?

I can't figure out what to use after some reading on oils and centistrokes and etc. I'm confused, and a bit affraid on what can happen on my engine, since it's heavy moddified for the last 30k km

vettdvr

My guess is the clicking is hydraulic lifter leakdown. Probably won't hurt anything as the engine rpm increases so does the oil pressure to the lifters and this will take up valve train clearance. Probably some engine wear resulting in lower oil pressure is the real cause. In this case I would use the 0w40 for the 40 part to increase oil pressure at lower rpm's to lower the noise on the lifters. But your choice. I always use the M1 0w40 with 1 exception. The dealer didn't fully tighten the oil plug and while traveling I was low on oil. I took the approach of "incorrect oil was better than NO oil" so I topped off with M1 10W30 and completed the trip. Then took it back to the dealer for the leak. Otherwise ONLY M1 0w40 goes in our E500.

gaiex

The noise I ear is like a chain rolling, MB guys don't know what it is, I only eard other 1 or 2 cars like mine doing the same noise from the engine
They need to open the engine to detect the problem, but I never had oil wear, only the normal and everything looks ok now for 70k km!
They suspect that could be oil pump chain, but never eard on a problem like this on any MB car, and there is more cars out there doing the same noise...

So, the noise is present only when the engine is hot, should I change to w40 for better oil pressure at high temps?
Should stick to 5w since the engine have 130k km now or 0w is good?

sosh

Oil pump chain?? I do not believe that there is an oil pump chain. In most modern engines the oil pump is gear driven.

vettdvr

I would still go with the 0w40. It is an approved MB oil and the 40 might help with higher film strength. Then see if the noise improves.

I agree though if the noise sounds like chain noise and is on the front of the engine it probably is. I have only broken 1 timing gear in 45 years and that was in 1973 with a nylon gear. But I suspect you have a worn gear chain setup. Unfortunately the only way to know for sure is to open it up. Sometimes a timing chain failure can destroy the engine by the piston hitting an open valve if it is a timing chain. I thought the oil pump was direct drive with no chain so this is a new one on me to have a chain drive pump.

I don't know what Castor you were using from a spec view point but I would go check to see if it is on the approved list for your engine. I am thinking they used a castor that might not be approved. For Mobile the only Mobile 1 oil approved (exclusive of diesel) is the European Formula 0w40. So perhaps the castor didn't meet the MB specs and now you have wear when you didn't expect it.

So go find exactly what castor you used and check it on MB approved list.

vettdvr

Wow,, I stand corrected. I went to the MB manual for oil pump removal E350 2006 and it clearly shows how to remove the drive CHAIN to the oil pump.

Even the E500 V8 uses a chain to drive the oil pump. It looks like pulling the oil pan will give access to the pump. There is a chain tensioner and this might be your problem. It might be worn especially if your oil didn't meet the 229.5 specifications.

So given what I have learned from the MB manuals.

1) use 0w40 M1 European formual oil if it is available
2) Verify the noise change if it does?
3) Consider pulling the pan and replacing the oil pump/chain and tensioner.