A million lowering questions
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
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2006 E350
A million lowering questions
Well, I spent a good 4-5 hours reading through almost every thread about lowering a w211. And a lot of threads where pretty vague and left a lot of loose ends. I was hoping to get some more concrete info about lowering one of these.
I am looking at getting the H&R springs.
I have a 2006 E350 RWD sedan, no sport or anything. Pretty base model really.
1. I know I don’t have arimatic because there is no buttons for it on the center console. However, whenever I start the car after it sits, I hear what sounds like an air compressor go off for 1 to 2 seconds. So it has to have some type of air delivery? I want to know if this will effect me getting springs in any way? Or even what the hell that noise is?
2. Shims... I am so confused about shims... Some people say their car sits to high in the front, to high in the back, to low in the front, on and on. Most replies seemed inconclusive. Obviously I want it to sit even, if I had to choose a hair lower in the front if it comes down to it. So do I need to remove or add shims in the front or back? Should I cut 1/4 coil?
3. Tire wear. I understand that lowering a car messes with the geometry of the wheel alignment. If I drop it with these said H&R springs, will a good old fashioned alignment fix this uneven tire wear issue completely? Will it slightly fix it? Will I be condemned to a life of never ending uneven tire wear? If it means doubling the life of tires, then are the camber kits worth investing in? I only ready 1 post of a guy who actually used camber kits, seemed like a good idea..? Buy only 1 guy did it?
4. Shocks. The car has almost 50k miles on it. I assume updating the shocks would be a wise decision at the time of the spring install. Do they make shocks for a lowered spring specifically for the Benz? Will shocks start to go much faster now that its lowered? I see Bilstein makes a nice piece, but there are like 3 different kinds lol??? I’ll save that for another post lol.
This is asking much, I know. But I think if I could get these questions answer in the most complete way, this post could really be a good reference to those looking to do springs on their w211's.
I am looking at getting the H&R springs.
I have a 2006 E350 RWD sedan, no sport or anything. Pretty base model really.
1. I know I don’t have arimatic because there is no buttons for it on the center console. However, whenever I start the car after it sits, I hear what sounds like an air compressor go off for 1 to 2 seconds. So it has to have some type of air delivery? I want to know if this will effect me getting springs in any way? Or even what the hell that noise is?
2. Shims... I am so confused about shims... Some people say their car sits to high in the front, to high in the back, to low in the front, on and on. Most replies seemed inconclusive. Obviously I want it to sit even, if I had to choose a hair lower in the front if it comes down to it. So do I need to remove or add shims in the front or back? Should I cut 1/4 coil?
3. Tire wear. I understand that lowering a car messes with the geometry of the wheel alignment. If I drop it with these said H&R springs, will a good old fashioned alignment fix this uneven tire wear issue completely? Will it slightly fix it? Will I be condemned to a life of never ending uneven tire wear? If it means doubling the life of tires, then are the camber kits worth investing in? I only ready 1 post of a guy who actually used camber kits, seemed like a good idea..? Buy only 1 guy did it?
4. Shocks. The car has almost 50k miles on it. I assume updating the shocks would be a wise decision at the time of the spring install. Do they make shocks for a lowered spring specifically for the Benz? Will shocks start to go much faster now that its lowered? I see Bilstein makes a nice piece, but there are like 3 different kinds lol??? I’ll save that for another post lol.
This is asking much, I know. But I think if I could get these questions answer in the most complete way, this post could really be a good reference to those looking to do springs on their w211's.
Super Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 513
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From: San Diego, CA
2020 GLE350
I don't know if I am the guy, but I did it after going through 2 sets of rears in less than 10K miles, it will cost you about the same as 4 rear tires, but I can say after 7K miles, the rears still look like new, inside and out. The last set were so incredibly eaten on the inside that it became a safety issue. I have teenage kids that use my car, and I was not going to take any chances. It is the price you have to pay to look good, and in these cars, the price ain't cheap.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
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2006 E350
I don't know if I am the guy, but I did it after going through 2 sets of rears in less than 10K miles, it will cost you about the same as 4 rear tires, but I can say after 7K miles, the rears still look like new, inside and out. The last set were so incredibly eaten on the inside that it became a safety issue. I have teenage kids that use my car, and I was not going to take any chances. It is the price you have to pay to look good, and in these cars, the price ain't cheap.
Yea lol, it was you, I remember your sig. Here is the most informative post I found on it.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...amber-kit.html
After doing some more reading tonight it seems like camber kits are a must unless you want to burn through tires, you would think more people would be doing this considering the cost of tires, especially if you want to do some nice michilens or something. Well I guess thats 2 questions down, more to go
Thanks for chiming in.
Last edited by loaked; Jul 8, 2009 at 02:49 AM.
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From: Wyckoff, New Jersey & Alphabet City NYC
86 190E 2.3-16v, 92 500E, 03 CL55 AMG, 08 E3504M Brabus
Shims, Tire Ware and Shocks:
Shims - easy way to level your car out, some people who are looking for a more modest drop than aftermarket can provide sometimes choose to remove shims or spring pads. This will also allow one who has lowered via springs with an uneven selttlement to adjust slightly. However, I would have to imagine that with removal of shims the ride stiffens a bit.
Tire Ware - An aligment should be enough after your spring drop. I haven't noticed anything substantial ware-wise on my spring lowered car. I would recommend that if you are running aftermarket wheels with your drop that you throw your stock wheels back on and get your alignment done by one of the good machines at the dealership. They will only align cars on stock wheels. I wouldn't bother with the camber kit but obviously won't hurt you.
Shocks - awesome and reasonably priced, a definite go. Bilstien and Koni obviously both make great products. You are right, do this all at once and save yourself some money in the long run. The suspension will already be apart for your spring install they might as well do your shocks at the same time or you'll pay labor twice. Most of the aftermarket applications allow for adjustments not only in height (you won't have to worry about evening out the car with shim removal if you have shocks) but in ride firmness or softness so you can adjust to your liking.
Finally, depending on what your looking for out of the car, if you are going to go ahead and upgrade your suspension I'd also pick up a set of beefier eibach or H&R sway bars to compliment your suspension package. GL
Shims - easy way to level your car out, some people who are looking for a more modest drop than aftermarket can provide sometimes choose to remove shims or spring pads. This will also allow one who has lowered via springs with an uneven selttlement to adjust slightly. However, I would have to imagine that with removal of shims the ride stiffens a bit.
Tire Ware - An aligment should be enough after your spring drop. I haven't noticed anything substantial ware-wise on my spring lowered car. I would recommend that if you are running aftermarket wheels with your drop that you throw your stock wheels back on and get your alignment done by one of the good machines at the dealership. They will only align cars on stock wheels. I wouldn't bother with the camber kit but obviously won't hurt you.
Shocks - awesome and reasonably priced, a definite go. Bilstien and Koni obviously both make great products. You are right, do this all at once and save yourself some money in the long run. The suspension will already be apart for your spring install they might as well do your shocks at the same time or you'll pay labor twice. Most of the aftermarket applications allow for adjustments not only in height (you won't have to worry about evening out the car with shim removal if you have shocks) but in ride firmness or softness so you can adjust to your liking.
Finally, depending on what your looking for out of the car, if you are going to go ahead and upgrade your suspension I'd also pick up a set of beefier eibach or H&R sway bars to compliment your suspension package. GL
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
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2006 E350
Thank AMG for the reply. 
Good info there.
A question, you said that if you replace the shocks that will help stable the heigth of the car and possibly eliminate the hassle with the shims? I didnt think the shocks would dictate the ride heigth, just ride quality rather, like you mentioned also.
How long have you gone with your sping install miles wise?
From what I have read (at first I though I had airmatic due to that "compressor noise") the STAR system doesnt lower it as much as springs so I think you can get away with just an alignment. Obviously Im no expert, but thats kind of what I gathered before I started researching the whole spring thing.
Good info there. A question, you said that if you replace the shocks that will help stable the heigth of the car and possibly eliminate the hassle with the shims? I didnt think the shocks would dictate the ride heigth, just ride quality rather, like you mentioned also.
How long have you gone with your sping install miles wise?
From what I have read (at first I though I had airmatic due to that "compressor noise") the STAR system doesnt lower it as much as springs so I think you can get away with just an alignment. Obviously Im no expert, but thats kind of what I gathered before I started researching the whole spring thing.
Last edited by loaked; Jul 8, 2009 at 01:06 PM.
Super Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 519
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
09 E320 Bluetec
Tire Ware - An aligment should be enough after your spring drop. I haven't noticed anything substantial ware-wise on my spring lowered car. I would recommend that if you are running aftermarket wheels with your drop that you throw your stock wheels back on and get your alignment done by one of the good machines at the dealership. They will only align cars on stock wheels. I wouldn't bother with the camber kit but obviously won't hurt you.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,609
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From: Wyckoff, New Jersey & Alphabet City NYC
86 190E 2.3-16v, 92 500E, 03 CL55 AMG, 08 E3504M Brabus
No problem. Yes, if I'm not mistaken, the set of Koni yellows I attempted to install on my 4Matic (it was a beta testing thing we weren't sure if they'd work) would have been able to even out the level of the car as well as ride quality. Make sure to double check about the specific product your going to purchase. I've had my springs on now I'd say about 2500-3k miles.
Also, a star drop is good for 1.5" or so from what I understand. It is the safest and easiest and cheapest way to lower a air suspension car if you can find somone with the diag tool. Do understand though that a STAR drop can only be done on cars with air suspension, which if your a rwd 2006 e350 you do not have.
Also, a star drop is good for 1.5" or so from what I understand. It is the safest and easiest and cheapest way to lower a air suspension car if you can find somone with the diag tool. Do understand though that a STAR drop can only be done on cars with air suspension, which if your a rwd 2006 e350 you do not have.
Thank AMG for the reply. Good info there.
A question, you said that if you replace the shocks that will help stable the heigth of the car and possibly eliminate the hassle with the shims? I didnt think the shocks would dictate the ride heigth, just ride quality rather, like you mentioned also.
How long have you gone with your sping install miles wise?
From what I have read (at first I though I had airmatic due to that "compressor noise") the STAR system doesnt lower it as much as springs so I think you can get away with just an alignment. Obviously Im no expert, but thats kind of what I gathered before I started researching the whole spring thing.
Good info there. A question, you said that if you replace the shocks that will help stable the heigth of the car and possibly eliminate the hassle with the shims? I didnt think the shocks would dictate the ride heigth, just ride quality rather, like you mentioned also.
How long have you gone with your sping install miles wise?
From what I have read (at first I though I had airmatic due to that "compressor noise") the STAR system doesnt lower it as much as springs so I think you can get away with just an alignment. Obviously Im no expert, but thats kind of what I gathered before I started researching the whole spring thing.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,609
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From: Wyckoff, New Jersey & Alphabet City NYC
86 190E 2.3-16v, 92 500E, 03 CL55 AMG, 08 E3504M Brabus
Its my understanding that an alignment is an alignment no matter what wheel size you are running. The reason I suggest you use your stock wheels to get an alignment at the dealership is for two reasons. 1. the dealership will only align your car if you are on stock wheels. Something about how the sensors mount to the wheels. 2. Not all alignment machines are created equal! The machines at dealerships are usually higher quality than what you'll find at a pep boys or a firestone. That is why I suggest this.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 36
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From: philippines / lax
2004 E240
hi,
i have a 04 E240, i used h&r springs with yellow bilstein shocks (adjustable height in the front) ride is ok no problems for me considering the roads here in the philippines is not great. ride height is greta for me. i'll try to post pics later. had the shocks and springs for almost 3yrs the shocks are my 2nd set since i destroyed the first set by dropping the car too low and hitting a pot hole.
i have a 04 E240, i used h&r springs with yellow bilstein shocks (adjustable height in the front) ride is ok no problems for me considering the roads here in the philippines is not great. ride height is greta for me. i'll try to post pics later. had the shocks and springs for almost 3yrs the shocks are my 2nd set since i destroyed the first set by dropping the car too low and hitting a pot hole.
Super Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 519
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
09 E320 Bluetec
Its my understanding that an alignment is an alignment no matter what wheel size you are running. The reason I suggest you use your stock wheels to get an alignment at the dealership is for two reasons. 1. the dealership will only align your car if you are on stock wheels. Something about how the sensors mount to the wheels. 2. Not all alignment machines are created equal! The machines at dealerships are usually higher quality than what you'll find at a pep boys or a firestone. That is why I suggest this.
thanks
Super Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 519
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
09 E320 Bluetec
noveae, i think this method is better
http://www.adjustableairride.com/
http://www.adjustableairride.com/
Super Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 519
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
09 E320 Bluetec
Perhaps another member will correct me, but I don't think the lowering affects the alignment at all. You might get more camber as the car sits closer to the ground, but as far a I know there is no way to adjust for camber in this car.
On top of that, the lowering is very minimal with the SDS method. So any camber effects are pretty negligible.
On top of that, the lowering is very minimal with the SDS method. So any camber effects are pretty negligible.
is this true
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Wyckoff, New Jersey & Alphabet City NYC
86 190E 2.3-16v, 92 500E, 03 CL55 AMG, 08 E3504M Brabus
STAR>AAR because there is NO modification required. Albeit slight, the AAR are links that must be installed. STAR is plug and play. Find the right guy to do it for you and you shouldn't spend more than 100 bucks.
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Daily Drivers: 2019 Tesla Model 3+, 2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia TI, + a few non-street legal race cars
Great thread. I'm looking to lower my (4x4 looking) '04 E320 slightly. I'm definitely NOT looking to slam the car, but more of a modest drop. I currently have 18" Brabus Monoblock V multi-piece wheels on it and have the camber bolts from the dealer.
My questions are:
- How much drop can I expect by changing shims/spring pads?
- Does anybody have part numbers for the spring pads?
- With my camber bolts already installed, do I need additional camber adjustment parts?
- Does anybody have pictures of their early W211 lowered by shims?
Thanks in advance, I can get the work done for nearly free but the guys in our shop want me to do my homework before I bring in my personal car. They hate working on street cars so I need to make it as easy on them as possible.
My questions are:
- How much drop can I expect by changing shims/spring pads?
- Does anybody have part numbers for the spring pads?
- With my camber bolts already installed, do I need additional camber adjustment parts?
- Does anybody have pictures of their early W211 lowered by shims?
Thanks in advance, I can get the work done for nearly free but the guys in our shop want me to do my homework before I bring in my personal car. They hate working on street cars so I need to make it as easy on them as possible.
Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 126
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From: costa mesa, ca
07 E350 sport
You def need a rear camber kit when lowering.The front are four bolts that are the same from the dealer.I believe they use these bolts on the AMG's to adjust camber and caster.For the rear you need adjustable camber arms..Invest 300
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Daily Drivers: 2019 Tesla Model 3+, 2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia TI, + a few non-street legal race cars
Thanks for the feedback.
I assume you mean the eccentric bolts that I got to allow for more camber adjustment from the dealership?
As for the rears, I'm searching around and the KMac seems to be the top choice for everybody. I'll order them in November when I get back to town. Thanks again.
I assume you mean the eccentric bolts that I got to allow for more camber adjustment from the dealership?
As for the rears, I'm searching around and the KMac seems to be the top choice for everybody. I'll order them in November when I get back to town. Thanks again.
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
09 E320 Bluetec
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From: Blaine, WA
07 E320 Bluetec
My question is not related to my rims but I have MRR GT1 19". Before I change the suspension and or springs on my vehicle, I need to know its OEM Front and Rear spring rate specifications .
Spring Rate is the amount of weight needed to compress a spring. Suspension springs are rated in LB/in (in metric system kg/mm), or specifically, how many pounds of weight are required to depress the spring by one inch or kg per mm.
Say my current OEM front springs are 560lb/in or 10kg/mm (these are equivalent) and replacing these with springs of 672lb/in or 12kg/mm will give it a somewhat firmer ride which may be what I am looking for since it may mean (depending on other factors and vehicle geometry) reduced roll.
I have a feeling the current spring rates are in the Comfort Zone for the Bluetec high 500's/low 600's lb front (rears are usually lower). If I know this precise information I can somewhat calculate or gauge a change in comfort, stability, roll etc. if the suspension is altered with higher spring rates.
I usually like to do tremendous research before jumping into something.
Spring Rate is the amount of weight needed to compress a spring. Suspension springs are rated in LB/in (in metric system kg/mm), or specifically, how many pounds of weight are required to depress the spring by one inch or kg per mm.
Say my current OEM front springs are 560lb/in or 10kg/mm (these are equivalent) and replacing these with springs of 672lb/in or 12kg/mm will give it a somewhat firmer ride which may be what I am looking for since it may mean (depending on other factors and vehicle geometry) reduced roll.
I have a feeling the current spring rates are in the Comfort Zone for the Bluetec high 500's/low 600's lb front (rears are usually lower). If I know this precise information I can somewhat calculate or gauge a change in comfort, stability, roll etc. if the suspension is altered with higher spring rates.
I usually like to do tremendous research before jumping into something.
Last edited by pinebaron; Sep 1, 2009 at 08:12 PM.
