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- Mercedes-Benz E-Class: How to Replace Brake Fluid
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Would you change brake fluid at 20k?
#26
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E320CDI, CLK55, and a Smart
I would change the fluid based upon time, not mileage. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, therefore over time, it absorbs water. This in turn lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid.
I, personally, would change the brake fluid 1-2 years depending on climate.
I, personally, would change the brake fluid 1-2 years depending on climate.
Last edited by Dan Wang; 12-30-2010 at 10:38 PM.
#27
Member
I used the motive pressure bleeder w/MB adaptor. Filled bleeder with new fluid. Suction as much old out of the master cylinder, then top off fresh.
Install bleeder and pressurize.
Bleed brakes in correct order on each wheel.
After bleeding each one check to make sure you still have fluid in the bleeder.
Do all 4 wheels.
Install bleeder and pressurize.
Bleed brakes in correct order on each wheel.
After bleeding each one check to make sure you still have fluid in the bleeder.
Do all 4 wheels.
I too just bought this pressure bleeder to to this DIY and have a quick question...
When you drain and top off the Master cylinder, do you fill it to the top of the thread right before it overflows seeing as you will be using lots of fluid?
How much fluid at a time do you put in the pressure bleeder tank before you pressurize it?
Any air left in the bleeder tank, its hose, and the top of the master cylinder (before you screw the mercedes adapter on and pressurize), will there be air pushed into the lines as a result and is that a problem?
Thanks for any insight,
Cheers
Tibor
#28
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03 E500 and Corvette
I too just bought this pressure bleeder to to this DIY and have a quick question...
When you drain and top off the Master cylinder, do you fill it to the top of the thread right before it overflows seeing as you will be using lots of fluid?
NO I fill to the max fill line.
How much fluid at a time do you put in the pressure bleeder tank before you pressurize it?
I put a full 1 ltr can in the bleeder and check it after bleeding each wheel, I used 2 cans
Any air left in the bleeder tank, its hose, and the top of the master cylinder (before you screw the mercedes adapter on and pressurize), will there be air pushed into the lines as a result and is that a problem?
Air bubbles in the pressure line will vent because the master cylinder wasn't filled past the max line. This is why you don't fill pass max. Only fluid will go into the system from the master cylinder. NOTE NEVER LET THE MASTER CYLINDER GET EMPTY!
Thanks for any insight,
Cheers
Tibor
When you drain and top off the Master cylinder, do you fill it to the top of the thread right before it overflows seeing as you will be using lots of fluid?
NO I fill to the max fill line.
How much fluid at a time do you put in the pressure bleeder tank before you pressurize it?
I put a full 1 ltr can in the bleeder and check it after bleeding each wheel, I used 2 cans
Any air left in the bleeder tank, its hose, and the top of the master cylinder (before you screw the mercedes adapter on and pressurize), will there be air pushed into the lines as a result and is that a problem?
Air bubbles in the pressure line will vent because the master cylinder wasn't filled past the max line. This is why you don't fill pass max. Only fluid will go into the system from the master cylinder. NOTE NEVER LET THE MASTER CYLINDER GET EMPTY!
Thanks for any insight,
Cheers
Tibor
#30
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Cheers,
#31
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Interesting read from the AMG forum : https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...id-change.html
@kkanuck, barely, if at all, if the bottle has stayed sealed.
@kkanuck, barely, if at all, if the bottle has stayed sealed.
#32
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17 E43, 10 E5504M
Sorry for the mini hijack:
I have a mityvac 7201 for DIY oil change and also have the 7205 brake bleed kit, my question is can I use the mityvac along with the bleed kit to flush my brake system I have a 07 E550 4M (no SBC).
I did search the forum but can"t find a definite answer on whether I can use the vacuum menthod to suck the brake fluid or have to use the pressure method like the Motive brake bleeder.
Also, if using pressurized bleeder what PSI should the bleeder not exceed to prevent damage to the brake system?
Thx
I have a mityvac 7201 for DIY oil change and also have the 7205 brake bleed kit, my question is can I use the mityvac along with the bleed kit to flush my brake system I have a 07 E550 4M (no SBC).
I did search the forum but can"t find a definite answer on whether I can use the vacuum menthod to suck the brake fluid or have to use the pressure method like the Motive brake bleeder.
Also, if using pressurized bleeder what PSI should the bleeder not exceed to prevent damage to the brake system?
Thx
#33
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MB shop method
is Pressure although vac will do as long as you activate the abs at some point during the fluid change(i.e. fill res and drive the car activate the abs)then continue with the flush/bleed.
#34
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2008 ML350 4matic
You can use the vacuum method, but I would shy away. You have a chance of drawing too much too quick and run the master cylinder dry.
I have used Mityvacs on other vehicles, I greatly prefer this method.
I flushed my ML with the Motive Power Bleeder....it truley was effortless. I pumped mine up to 10 on the guage and that was sufficient for all four wheels. I only used a little less than 1 liter. I emptied the master cylinder, topped it off, hooked up the bleeder and opened the screws one at a time.
It was a very clean and easy job.
The unopened bottle should be good regardless of how old it is...it's still factory sealed.
I have used Mityvacs on other vehicles, I greatly prefer this method.
I flushed my ML with the Motive Power Bleeder....it truley was effortless. I pumped mine up to 10 on the guage and that was sufficient for all four wheels. I only used a little less than 1 liter. I emptied the master cylinder, topped it off, hooked up the bleeder and opened the screws one at a time.
It was a very clean and easy job.
The unopened bottle should be good regardless of how old it is...it's still factory sealed.
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17 E43, 10 E5504M
Thank you ohlord and Benzo for your informative post.
Looks like it the Motive bleeder is a way to go.
Is the motive bleeder you guys using is the model #0100 for european cars?
Is 45mm thread the correct one for our MB?
When using the motive bleeder do I can to worry about cycling the ABS system like ohlord said?
Thanks again and wish you all have a happy new year!
Cheers
Looks like it the Motive bleeder is a way to go.
Is the motive bleeder you guys using is the model #0100 for european cars?
Is 45mm thread the correct one for our MB?
When using the motive bleeder do I can to worry about cycling the ABS system like ohlord said?
Thanks again and wish you all have a happy new year!
Cheers
#36
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03 E500 and Corvette
Thank you ohlord and Benzo for your informative post.
Looks like it the Motive bleeder is a way to go.
Is the motive bleeder you guys using is the model #0100 for european cars?
Is 45mm thread the correct one for our MB?
When using the motive bleeder do I can to worry about cycling the ABS system like ohlord said?
Thanks again and wish you all have a happy new year!
Cheers
Looks like it the Motive bleeder is a way to go.
Is the motive bleeder you guys using is the model #0100 for european cars?
Is 45mm thread the correct one for our MB?
When using the motive bleeder do I can to worry about cycling the ABS system like ohlord said?
Thanks again and wish you all have a happy new year!
Cheers
#37
MBWorld Fanatic!
Your brake fluid needs changed every two years regardless of your mileage, as brake fluid is hydroscopic meaning it collects moisture. That moisture collects insid reht brake lines and caliper pistons, causing corrosion. i.e. rusty brake pistons inside the calipers, possible rust in the master cylinder.
#38
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2008 ML350 4matic
Noyu,
I have the red anodized metal cap, not sure on the part number. It was for the M/B Euro models.
I did not do anything with the ABS. I simply opened the bleeder screws and waited for the color change. I used ATE Super Blue Racing fluid. It is a very bright "Neon" blue. It is obvious when the new fluid is flushed through.
Next year, Super Gold.
I have the red anodized metal cap, not sure on the part number. It was for the M/B Euro models.
I did not do anything with the ABS. I simply opened the bleeder screws and waited for the color change. I used ATE Super Blue Racing fluid. It is a very bright "Neon" blue. It is obvious when the new fluid is flushed through.
Next year, Super Gold.
#39
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I use the same type of Brake Fluid, ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid. it make a big difference when bleeding brake as you can see the diffrence between the old and new fluid.
#40
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I would love to DIY the brake fluid. However I'm concerned that MB recommends the use of STAR when bleeding the system, and by DIY without STAR, should there be a problem with the brakes (like those here who have exp. the SBC failure claim there is VERY LITTLE stopping force), can MB void the 10 yr. SBC warranty?
#41
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I would love to DIY the brake fluid. However I'm concerned that MB recommends the use of STAR when bleeding the system, and by DIY without STAR, should there be a problem with the brakes (like those here who have exp. the SBC failure claim there is VERY LITTLE stopping force), can MB void the 10 yr. SBC warranty?
I flushed my SBC brakes w/Motive pressure bleeder @ 10PSI and have a clean system.
Each owner has to make a decision if this is something you can / should do or pay the dealer. Your choice.
#42
Super Member
I've used ATE Type 200 gold in other cars. The specs are as follows:
dry boiling point 536 degrees F dry, wet 392 degrees F
(Celcius: 280/200).
Someone who has a bottle of the M-B branded brake fluid can check these against those of the M-B fluid.
dry boiling point 536 degrees F dry, wet 392 degrees F
(Celcius: 280/200).
Someone who has a bottle of the M-B branded brake fluid can check these against those of the M-B fluid.