db2001

I just finished changing the oil and air filter(s) on my 2008 E350 this afternoon. All in all, really easy, and know there are posts out there but wanted to share some thoughts while they are still fresh.
This was my first E350 oil change. I decided to go topside and used a MityVac 7201 (8.8L).
Oil Filter Cartridge (Purolator - AdvanceAuto)
8.x Qts Mobile1 0-40
Type B (metal) filter wrench

Commentary:
I removed the plastic engine cover by gently (but firmly) lifting up on the front and then the side / corners. Be careful as the front portion can separate from the back piece as you're carrying away from the vehicle. Note, there is metal clip that anchors the back portion of the engine cover that you’ll need to contend with. You’ll also need to unplug a rubber hose (no fittings) that attaches to the front portion.
I like the fact that the air filters are actually contained on the underside of the plastic engine cover (one on each side leading to each intake tube). 4 #25 torx screws holds each of the air filter housings to the cover - which makes it easy to inspect / replace the air filters.

I ended up purchasing a metal "type B" filter wrench from AutoZone - which worked fine in removing the oil filter housing - located near the front / right of center of the engine compartment. I had a towel draped around the engine compartment but not sure it was really necessary as the assembly came out without any mess.
The MityVac 7201 does fine. I tightned the top screws, flipped the lever on the top, connected one of the smaller hoses to the main hose - and that to the unit and was ready to go. All told it took about 20 minutes (which gives you plenty of time to replace the cartridge, air filters, check belts / hoses, etc. ) to get 7.8 L of oil out of the engine. After starting the suction (about 10 pumps), I'd do another 5 or so pumps every couple of minutes.
A couple of notes on the oil filter:
There are 2 lines on the replacement filter and it is important to make sure that the top line is covered by the assembly - in otherwords, make sure the cartridge is pressed all of the way in to the top of the housing. It’s probably easiest to make a note on how far the existing cartridge is on the assembly. It’s real easy to push the new cartridge on and think it’s on. Be sure – hit the line!
The oil filter had 3 rubber O ring gaskets which I replaced as well.
I converted Liters to Quarts and put 8.3ish quarts of oil back in to account for the oil in the filter. I realize the actual (empty) amount is more, but I only wanted to put in what I took out. I put the new cartridge assembly back in the motor, and engine cover back on. I put the key in the ignition to check the oil level - which indicated fine. I reset the service indicator (see great instructions from another post below) and buttoned everything back up. As a side I used the extractor to push the used oil into each of the empty quart containers.

Complete, I probably spent just over an hour doing the whole deal, most of which was spent getting a feel for things. Easy to do, no regrets... I wrestled with the Mobile1 0/40 5/30 option. Here in Austin 5/30 is available at WalMart and Sams for like $24 for a 5 qt. container vs. $8 or so for individual 0/40 quarts. To be honest, one of the Mercedes guides, if I remember correctly, indicates 0/40 Mobile1, 5/40 Castrol, 0/30... etc. are all acceptable. I don't think the weight difference makes a significant difference, and as one poster pointed out, the viscosity ranges seem to be the same. I'm not driving the car at the north pole, nor at the equator... Regardless, I opted to spend the extra money for the 0/40 as I didn't want to call too many audibles.
David

2007 E-350 Command Center to reset Maintenance Service Interval
General information: This uses the commands on the steering wheel. (1) The up and down arrows, and (2) the page up and down buttons on the left side, and (3) the - + buttons on the right of the steering wheel. There is a built in delay of a second or two between sub-menu items. Be patient.
Also note on the bottom of the center display that the mileage display (at the bottom) gets replaced with a sequence of page up - page down, and -+ symbols to help with navigation through the sub-menus. Read from right to left to get back out of the menu currently displayed.
How to reset the Maintenance Service interval:
- Switch ignition on to position one, (first click clockwise);
- "Outside temperature" should be displayed, if not move to it (You have to be in this display to go further);
- Press the trip odometer, "reset", knob three times consecutively ( The Voltage display will appear);
- Press Down Arrow to enter the "Service Menu". "Service Data" submenu below will be highlighted.
- Press right page to enter the Service data submenu. (Left page goes up in menus, -+ selects items displayed)
- Press - three times on right of wheel to highlight "Confirmation".
- Use right page to select to display sub-menu as to what to confirm.
- Select "Full Service" (No need to use -+.) to confirm this choice
- Press right page to confirm. (Delay is about 3 seconds.)
- Press left page twice to exit the menu system, or turn off the ignition switch.
- Turn off ignition. Turn back on. The display should show that it is recalculating the mileage and days. This takes about 60 seconds so be patient.
- Go back to living life with a small smile on your face.
Disclaimer / Caveat -
I did not understand all that I saw. If I could not "select" what was displayed by pressing right page, then I concluded that what was displayed was information, and not a command to be entered. I accept no responsibility for making this information publically available.
If you figure out some of what the US service intervals, etc. other service menus mean, please let me know. DLChome@bellsouth.net David L. Carriere

Cativo

I will surely use this when I need to do my oil change on my 2009 E350. Thanks!

Mad Dawg 350

Why was a siphon used to extract the oil? Is there not a drain plug in the oil pan??

db2001

I used the topsider or oil extractor because it seemed like a no brainer to me:
- I already had the Mityvac because I use on my SL500
- No need to jack up / get under the car
- No need to remove any skid / drip plates
- No need to undo / retighten any drain plugs
- Don't have a 8 Qt oil container
- Cleaner (simpler) process overall in that there might be a drip (or two) from the Mityvac hose vs. oil splash
- The Mityvac case allows me to see how much oil I've extracted

That being said, yes there is an oil plug and it absolutely does take longer to physically remove the oil using the extractor. I use that time to clean out / replace the air filters and generally inspect the engine compartment, tires, brakes, etc.

dsm2925

Great detail

Okie-1

This is great - thanks!

starbrite

He mentions a Purolator filter cart from Advance. Be sure it's a "fleece" and NOT a paper cart.

I use the Mann-Filter HU718/5x (made in Germany) available on Fleabay @ $11.00 delivered.

The filter housing can be removed/installed using double sided "carpet" tape. Wrap once around the housing and you'd be surprised at what a good grip you can get on it. The housing is a composite and metal filter cap type wrenches are generally not recommended.

I realize this tread is almost 3 yrs old, but a little added info never hurts, IMO.

db2001

Thanks for adding Starbrite.
Yes, use the fleece (I've always seen them as "white" filter material vs. the "yellow" for paper).
I hadn't thought of the doublesided tape. Hand tight for me for the filter housing - I've never been a big fan of cranking the filter or drainpan plugs down to where they're almost impossible to remove.

carboxy

The cover on my ml63 is very tight! How do you remove it? W pliers?

starbrite

Wow! You had to quote that whole post just to ask that question, which I hope you're kidding.

If you're serious, the answer is NO ! It's a composite housing and you'll break it for sure.

Use a cap style filter wrench, also a composite, like this one : Click Here