dsm2925

My car had a light vibration throughout the car. The bibration was heard from the rear of the car and at times from the door panels and other parts... It was bad motor mounts! The left side motor mount totally broken. I didnt believe the motor mounts were bad although the most thread pointed to that as the issue. On all my preivous cars when a motor mount was bad my engine would move under heavy acell or when shifting from P to D. In my case one motor mount was shot and the other was simply ok but with the other one being bad it most likely was going to go very soon. i decided to replaced both. The motor mounts were $120@ Benz each plus labor forr the INDY. Now i turn the car on and think its off so i always catch my self looking at the tach to see if the car is running .






**The right motor mount is easier then the left motor mount.
**The left motor is not as easy as the right because their is a few things in the way
**Zero vibration in the cabin. "i honest dont know when the car is on" - so if you w211 v8 is not this quiet something is wrong.
**I saw a few listings on ebay of 2 mounts for $100 but didnt want to take chances with the quality of them
**My car is a V8

BlueOpal

I was actually thinking about this issue recently as my warranty will end in two months.

Coming from a VW Passat, when I purchased my E350 I was surprised that I could "feel" that the engine was running. In my Passat, I had to look at the tach to double check as it was very quiet at idle. Having said that, the vibrations in the Benz are not horrible but they are there.

Can other E350 owners please comment as to whether or not you get that "don't know the car is on" feeling?

Could engine mounts fail with only 45K miles on the car?

50ae

I have a 2002 VW TDI and the 2005 MB CDI is quite a bit noisier at startup than the VW though the extra power is more than worth it.

NorseWagon

Hom much was labor at the INDY shop...?

dsm2925

$90.

XLR82XS

After changing the oil and checking over my recently purchase E500 wagon I found the front lower control arm bushings worn. The car does have a shake at higher speeds and I plan on balancing the tires, replacing the bushings then retesting. I'll report my findings.

dsm2925

I would start with balancing tires. the cheapest 1st!

XLR82XS

Of course the balance.... easy and cheap. The bushings are bad and owning a shop I can replace them at low cost.

delviacv2

I guess I have to check on my motor mounts!

gaazmon

man, the motor mounts and control arm issues on this car such it's like a given gggrrrrhhhh

I've had to replace my motor mounts twice now and the car has less than 83k miles

XLR82XS

Repairs complete as well as a alignment and wheel balance. 1 wheel is center bent (thanks ****ty stealership) and will have to be replaced. No accurate feedback can be posted because of this.

butter123

Mounts were only $120 at the MB dealer? My local dealership is asking $240 each, and upwards of $900 for replacement. My car is a 08 E350 4matic though, I know it requires more label for the 4matic, but the mounts shouldn't be too different right?

kajtek1

Shop around for mounts. MB brand for MM is net necessary the best.
I just bought Febi for my 320 from Pelican Parts for $95 a piece and will probably do them this Friday. Also check control arm front bushing/bearing as those are also hydro bushings and go fast.

cetialpha5

Those were 2011 prices. Everything is more expensive now. EPCnet is no longer free, $75 a year. Startek is now $60 a day instead of $19. Online prices range from $100-$120 for the mounts. My regular indy wasn't available so I had another indy do it and he charged me $200 to put 2 in. That was a couple months ago. He originally told me it was about 3 hours to do it, but he got in done in a little bit less time. My regular indy would have been a little cheaper.

EuroDriverSD

I'll just chime in here with my $0.02 for those of you with the sport models and 18" wheels. If you have vibration at speed, it might be the wheels or tires. I read an article somewhere a while back that the 18" sport wheels are prone to bending/cracking, and the tires susceptible to sidewall bulging.


This has to do with the fact that the 18" wheels require tires with a smaller sidewall. Because of the weight of the car, they tend to develop bulges in the sidewalls. In addition, there is much more stress put on the wheels and they bend or crack. Apparently it's a rather common problem and people have tried to have MBZ cover/recall the damaged wheels but apparently MBZ has always responded that the damage is caused by people driving over potholes. I think these are the threads I read:


http://www.worldlawdirect.com/forum/...t-vehicle.html


https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...careful-2.html

kajtek1

Nothing wrong with 18" wheels.
It is the 20 mm of rubber you put on them that is not giving necessary cushion and that is where quality of rims and quality of tires plays big role.
Our wagon runs on 18" Lorinsers and they are good wheels.
I just replaced MM our wife W211 E320
Surprisingly it come much easier than on W210 with the same engine. I was done in 1 hr still answering the phone in the mean time.
Can't wait for longer drive on Sunday to compare the vibration.

The Thomas J

2 1/2 years, 20,000 miles with this car and now i'm about be putting on my third set of rims and tires. I can tell you with 100% certainty it's not my driving habits. I have been driving for nearly 28 years, cars, trucks buses etc....I have never experienced issues such as the issues I have experienced with my Mercedes Benz.