ccucco

Hello, I'm new to the forum, I have a question I hope somebody can answer. I replaced my driver side door lock actuator because it was doing the bouncing not lock thing all time. After replacing it now the unit will unlock fine with key fotab but it will not lock. I can lock the door by putting the key in the door and locking it. Also the fotab will lock all the other doors but not the driver door. I tried to sit in the car and lock the doors using the middle lock button on the dash and I have the same result as the fotab. Anyone ever heard of this? Thanks

w211220cdi

Hello, Did you solve the problem? Because I also replaced the door lock actuator on my W211, and have the same symptom as you. unlock fine with fotab, locking not.

If you solved it, please tell me how ? Thank you.

w211220cdi

I solved it yesterday. The problem was testing it without the plastic little cap mounted back on, where the lock is. Without that, the door thinks it is open, and then it will not close with the remote.

sand E320

Where did you find the actuator part? Do you have a part number? Cost? Was this a hard replacement fix? On a scale of 1 to 10, a 1 being all thumbs and a 10 being the average joe on the streets?

Thanks for any help!

w211220cdi

Hello I bought the part at http://www.importrp.com/

their partnumber for this actuator is : MBZ024793
the cost : 100 US dollar.

it is not hard once you know what to do. There is a DIY manual here on the forum. I would say a 5 on the scale of 1 to 10. Drilling the rivets out, and then using M5 (not M6) bolts and nuts is the way to go. See the manual.

I have a european W211 220CDI, and the M6 bolts do not fit.

sand E320

great thanks for the info!

jvpinto

MBZ024793 part can be purchased cheaper at GoWesty autoparts. I just bought it for $89.70 and free shipping (in the US). Will attempt this project as soon as I get the part.

kiamiiulokoawit

The problem was testing it without the plastic little cap mounted back on

HIGHMILE E55

Can you elaborate on the "plastic little cap"? What cap? I'm having the same issue.. thanks in advance!

TheFridge

Can anyone explain what is meant here, I replaced the spring inside my lock and not when I try to lock it will not lock but will open. I don't want to put the car back together until I am sure it will work. This Quote might be the answer.

Thanks in advance

konigstiger

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211...-actuator.html

w211220cdi

Hello,

What I meant is, the doorhandle outside, has little plastic cap where you put the key in. Most likely you took this off, and have not put it back. This is the reason of your symptoms. As soon as you reinstall this plastic cap back, the actuator will work.

TheFridge

Ok Just an update.. I went down the route of replacing the spring inside the lock rather than buying a new lock..
Found removing the actuator an easy job.. Replacing the broken spring was easy too... Getting the dam thing back in was a nightmare...I ended up Spending a long time trying to get it back in..

Not having the option to test it is horrible. My problem now is the handle on the inside of the door won't open the door. It seems the cable is too long now..

My head is melted lol

jagata

Did you fix your lock issue?

turbo97se

Wanted to post up a new finding. Not all of these bouncing door lock issues are due to spring being broken. On mine, the issue was the rubber dust boot on the rod to the door pin was pushed all the way down and slightly twisted. After straightening it up (pulling it up and untwisting it), the door lock works perfectly. It seems the rubber boot was causing additional friction and trying to push the rod upwards. Too bad I already ordered the springs for $10. I am sure they will break eventually so I will just keep the springs around.

CMax72

I also replaced my drivers front door lock actuator & now my door will only unlock & only will lock with the key or If I push the knob down. Thank you

nsraja

There is a rectangular plastic frame (bracket) that goes around the door latch which is supposed to be screwed in, after you put the door panel back on. For me unlock worked and lock was not working, turned out unless this bracket is installed the door would not push on the sensor button mounted on the body where the door close-in.

nsraja

It is not a difficult job. I drilled only the bottom rivets, no need to drill out the top rivet. Broke the plastic panel that goes right under the tweeters. Be careful with that one.

After dissecting the actuator box, make sure you push the locking latch (the one that makes a 270 circle and attaches to the body to keep the door secure) when you are testing with the new spring. Without that in closed position it will feel like the lock/unlock stick is not moving at all.

Also once installed the spring should appear outside. If you did not get it right it will go inside and it will not function properly. There is a little r like hole and a circle like hole. The bottom portion of the spring should go into the top right corner of the r like hole. If you got four springs from ebay, there are two different sets. No small or big. Just the orientation of the spring. You will have to use the correct one to get it to seat properly. Insert the upper part of the spring first, then move the bottom part to the circle hole and then use a nose plier to move it into the top right corner of r shaped hole while holding the spring body using a small screw driver so it stays outside.

Be careful when you open the actuator to replace the spring. In my case the gear wheel came out and I struggled a bit to put them together. Dont do electrical testing with the box open. Put the door locking latch in locked position(270 in all the way), just pull and push manual lock/unlock stick and that is good enough for testing. Once you close the actuator box, you can do electrical testing. You will have to put the latch in closed position by turning it twice and push the button on the body to cheat the car into thinking the door is closed to do the electrical testing.

While I was testing my driver side (which was the one that went out 3 months ago), the passenger side went out, and the passenger side pogo effect was more violent Good thing is it happened, just after I learned how to do it right. So soon after finishing driver side, I worked on the passenger side. Took me about 15 minutes on the actuator but putting the actuator back in was as difficult. On both sides there is a white color plastic rain shield that also hugs on to the actuator's back side once it is in place. The actuator is L shaped, and the plastic shield should go in the inner portion of the L shape, yet the lever that snaps into outer door handle should stick away from the plastic shield. Even with this knowledge it will give you a hard time when pushing it back in. I call it a "dealer incentive part" - because it has the potential to cut your fingers, lose hope and make you run to the dealer. There is plenty of room to put your hand in and feel it and maneuver the actuator in. Just takes patience and a few retries. It is very doable.

Finally I used polished steel screw that I got from Harbor Freight to replace the rivets I drilled out. Remember no need to remove the top rivet. The metal piece has a cable running behind it (likely to make the glass go up and down), so dont mess too much with it other than pushing it in when taking the actuator out and putting it in.