Replacing Central Gateway
#1
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E220 CDI 2004
Replacing Central Gateway
Hello,
My car was having problems with instrument cluster and diagnostics. The dealer told me that Central gateway needs to be changed. Being an engineer myself, i thought of some DIY and removed the Central gateway myself ( under the steering wheel). The Central gateway was burnt upon inspection of circuit.
I searched on Ebay for Central gateway unit against my part number (A 211 445 25 00) and found 29 used units for sale. Can i simply purchase one of those and plug it in?
The dealer advised me to buy a New one so that it can be programmed again for my car because according to him, the Central gateway will have configuration of previous car and will give problems later. How much of this is true? Can the gateway be simply reprogrammed on star?
Looking forward for some advice here!
Thanks!
My car was having problems with instrument cluster and diagnostics. The dealer told me that Central gateway needs to be changed. Being an engineer myself, i thought of some DIY and removed the Central gateway myself ( under the steering wheel). The Central gateway was burnt upon inspection of circuit.
I searched on Ebay for Central gateway unit against my part number (A 211 445 25 00) and found 29 used units for sale. Can i simply purchase one of those and plug it in?
The dealer advised me to buy a New one so that it can be programmed again for my car because according to him, the Central gateway will have configuration of previous car and will give problems later. How much of this is true? Can the gateway be simply reprogrammed on star?
Looking forward for some advice here!
Thanks!
#2
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'71 Pinto
I recommend new also, using SDS need to transfer data from original CG to new and read out fault memory.
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2MERKS (03-07-2023)
#3
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The problem is that not a single guy is selling a new one on Ebay and i heard the price difference is 4-5 times between new and used.
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14 S8, 07 E63 Designo, on order 14 G63
CG needs to be scn coded by dealers. Good luck finding an INDY who can even program that thing. Last time I checked I couldn't find one who had that capability in US.
Sorry for the unfortunate issue, there are some things that only dealer can perform on these cars.
Sorry for the unfortunate issue, there are some things that only dealer can perform on these cars.
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14 S8, 07 E63 Designo, on order 14 G63
CG needs to be scn coded by dealers. Good luck finding an INDY who can even program that thing. Last time I checked I couldn't find one who had that capability in US.
Sorry for the unfortunate issue, there are some things that only dealer can perform on these cars.
Sorry for the unfortunate issue, there are some things that only dealer can perform on these cars.
#6
Out Of Control!!
Hello,
My car was having problems with instrument cluster and diagnostics. The dealer told me that Central gateway needs to be changed. Being an engineer myself, i thought of some DIY and removed the Central gateway myself ( under the steering wheel). The Central gateway was burnt upon inspection of circuit.
I searched on Ebay for Central gateway unit against my part number (A 211 445 25 00) and found 29 used units for sale. Can i simply purchase one of those and plug it in?
The dealer advised me to buy a New one so that it can be programmed again for my car because according to him, the Central gateway will have configuration of previous car and will give problems later. How much of this is true? Can the gateway be simply reprogrammed on star?
Looking forward for some advice here!
Thanks!
My car was having problems with instrument cluster and diagnostics. The dealer told me that Central gateway needs to be changed. Being an engineer myself, i thought of some DIY and removed the Central gateway myself ( under the steering wheel). The Central gateway was burnt upon inspection of circuit.
I searched on Ebay for Central gateway unit against my part number (A 211 445 25 00) and found 29 used units for sale. Can i simply purchase one of those and plug it in?
The dealer advised me to buy a New one so that it can be programmed again for my car because according to him, the Central gateway will have configuration of previous car and will give problems later. How much of this is true? Can the gateway be simply reprogrammed on star?
Looking forward for some advice here!
Thanks!
Trending Topics
#8
Junior Member
I have a fun one if anyone can help point me in the right direction:
CGW may not be the right sub-forum, but gotta start somewhere
Coming back from an out of town trip yesterday, the W211 lost it’s damned mind.. We were driving happily along for about 3 hours and all of the sudden the cruise control drops off. Then the speedometer drops to zero, then an ESP failure message, then a SRS failure message, then water temp disappears, then the red ‘No Coolant stop car immediately’ warning lamp flashes in the center screen, then the red disappears and water temp is back. Then Speedo comes back and drops again and the whole thing is randomly working or firing failed module messages and red warning screens for the next while. Never lost the fuel guage or tach on the cluster and blinkers worked as normal. Never seemed to lose any engine/transmission performance. Radio, windows & AC were still working fine and never missed a beat, though unsure of what was going on, decided to turn them off listen for engine/drivetrain noises and crack the windows a bit.
We drove like this for the next hour until about out of gas, so stopped for fresh fuel and debated whether to turn it off or not. I could tell that it was not happy about the speedo being zero as the ESP would slightly apply some brakes every now and then (as I understand that's how it works.?), but was much more noticeable at slower speeds. After getting gas and starting up, car would not shift out of park... that shifter was solid and not moving. I turned it back off waited a minute & restarted, then it shifted out of park just fine. For the next mile or 2 after getting back on the freeway things were seemingly normal again and then it started all over again. We made it home ok (about 100 more miles), but the ESP kicking in & out was super noticeable at low/under 30 speeds and felt really rough like the transmission slamming gears.
Here's the next fun:
Got home and plugged code reader in first thing, and code reader could not communicate with car. Several attempts, unplug/re-plug, key on, key out etc, No dice. This was new, I had never seen that before.. Went to start it back up and dead ignition. No click, buzz, hum or anything.. turn the key and nadda. After getting a ‘made it home beer’ I decide to pull the batteries and let this thing cool down with the shop fans, maybe the car would chill out and and feel bad for how it had behaved. After sitting unplugged (both main and secondary batteries) for about an hour it seems that the car was truly apologetic and resumed behaving after everything was plugged back up. It now started right up, code reader communicating again etc.
I did the ESP reset bit and turned all the way left/right 5x because who knows, it might help,.. and now the ESP and SRS messages are no longer on the screen and after a short 7-8 mile test drive the car is running like it always has.. like a beast! No Error messages on the screen.. WTH?
Interesting day.. this is the first of such nutty issues with the 211 like this. What did I experience? Looks like the codes below might be pointing fingers to the Central Gateway as possibly being the culprit? Any of you guys experience this or to this degree? Any dead ringers in the codes below that might point to other areas of concern (ESP sensor/tone ring, rear/front/ SAM, passenger floor CAN bus fuses/connectors?)?
If it helps; Car has been garaged since March 2020/start of covid last year and only seldom goes for drives- maybe 2-3k miles since then. Car has been under a cover and not been wet in ages and was in parking garage for this recent trip which was dry the whole time. I recently renewed emissions (I always check for codes before trying) and can verify that car has been DTC free going on 2 years now, so this is all out of nowhere..
Codes below were pulled via Launch CRP129, what is transcribed below is all that the code read had to offer.
Note: In case of the fault “Bus Off” the control module is isolated from the CAN bus because of a major communication fault
Note: In case of the fault “Bus Off” the control module is isolated from the CAN bus because of a major communication fault
5A02
[Check coding's in control module CGW (National Version)] or [Check component Y10 (SPS solenoid valve)]
Thanks for reading, hopefully there's enough info in there to get started.
CGW may not be the right sub-forum, but gotta start somewhere
Coming back from an out of town trip yesterday, the W211 lost it’s damned mind.. We were driving happily along for about 3 hours and all of the sudden the cruise control drops off. Then the speedometer drops to zero, then an ESP failure message, then a SRS failure message, then water temp disappears, then the red ‘No Coolant stop car immediately’ warning lamp flashes in the center screen, then the red disappears and water temp is back. Then Speedo comes back and drops again and the whole thing is randomly working or firing failed module messages and red warning screens for the next while. Never lost the fuel guage or tach on the cluster and blinkers worked as normal. Never seemed to lose any engine/transmission performance. Radio, windows & AC were still working fine and never missed a beat, though unsure of what was going on, decided to turn them off listen for engine/drivetrain noises and crack the windows a bit.
We drove like this for the next hour until about out of gas, so stopped for fresh fuel and debated whether to turn it off or not. I could tell that it was not happy about the speedo being zero as the ESP would slightly apply some brakes every now and then (as I understand that's how it works.?), but was much more noticeable at slower speeds. After getting gas and starting up, car would not shift out of park... that shifter was solid and not moving. I turned it back off waited a minute & restarted, then it shifted out of park just fine. For the next mile or 2 after getting back on the freeway things were seemingly normal again and then it started all over again. We made it home ok (about 100 more miles), but the ESP kicking in & out was super noticeable at low/under 30 speeds and felt really rough like the transmission slamming gears.
Here's the next fun:
Got home and plugged code reader in first thing, and code reader could not communicate with car. Several attempts, unplug/re-plug, key on, key out etc, No dice. This was new, I had never seen that before.. Went to start it back up and dead ignition. No click, buzz, hum or anything.. turn the key and nadda. After getting a ‘made it home beer’ I decide to pull the batteries and let this thing cool down with the shop fans, maybe the car would chill out and and feel bad for how it had behaved. After sitting unplugged (both main and secondary batteries) for about an hour it seems that the car was truly apologetic and resumed behaving after everything was plugged back up. It now started right up, code reader communicating again etc.
I did the ESP reset bit and turned all the way left/right 5x because who knows, it might help,.. and now the ESP and SRS messages are no longer on the screen and after a short 7-8 mile test drive the car is running like it always has.. like a beast! No Error messages on the screen.. WTH?
Interesting day.. this is the first of such nutty issues with the 211 like this. What did I experience? Looks like the codes below might be pointing fingers to the Central Gateway as possibly being the culprit? Any of you guys experience this or to this degree? Any dead ringers in the codes below that might point to other areas of concern (ESP sensor/tone ring, rear/front/ SAM, passenger floor CAN bus fuses/connectors?)?
If it helps; Car has been garaged since March 2020/start of covid last year and only seldom goes for drives- maybe 2-3k miles since then. Car has been under a cover and not been wet in ages and was in parking garage for this recent trip which was dry the whole time. I recently renewed emissions (I always check for codes before trying) and can verify that car has been DTC free going on 2 years now, so this is all out of nowhere..
Codes below were pulled via Launch CRP129, what is transcribed below is all that the code read had to offer.
Transmission
C103
No CAN message was received from the control unit A80 (Intelligent servo module for Direct Select) or from control unit N15/5 (Electronic selector lever module (EMS [EWM])C121
No CAN message was received from control unit N47-5 (ESP and BAS control module) (171/203/209) or from control unit N-47-5 (ESP control unit) (164/2129/251/216/221) or from control unit N47-5 (ESP, SPS [PML] and BAS control unit) (211/215/220/230) or from control unit Brake SystemC001
CAN Controller: CAN bus OFFNote: In case of the fault “Bus Off” the control module is isolated from the CAN bus because of a major communication fault
C002
Can Controller: CAN bus OFFNote: In case of the fault “Bus Off” the control module is isolated from the CAN bus because of a major communication fault
C426
Start enable “Drive Authorization System” not issued. Read and observe repair informationC141
No CAN message was received from the control unit N73 (EIS [EZS] control unit or from control unit N93 Central Gateway control unit).C126
No CAN message was received from control unit N80 (Steering Column module) (171/203/209) or (One or more messages from control unit N80 (Steering Column module) are not available on the CAN bus)
ECU
2071
B14 (Ambient temperature display sensor) No CAN message (U0155)1433
No CAN message was received from the control unit N15/5 (Electronic selector lever module (EMS [EWM]) or A80 (Intelligent servo module for Direct Select)1373
No CAN message was received from the control unit Traction systems2226
The left fuel level sensor has a short circuit to ground1405
No CAN message was received from the control unit Transmission (U0101)1381
No CAN message was received from the control unit N80 (Steering column module)1437
No CAN message was received from the control unit Air Conditioning1293
No CAN message was received from the control unit N93 (Central Gateway Control Unit)1353
No CAN message was received from the control unit A1 (Instrument Cluster)0925
CAN signal “Vehicle speed at front axle” from control unit Traction system is implausible (P2158)
ABS
C225B
ABS Control
ESP
6210
ABS anti-lock braking system control6230
ESP Electronic Stability Program control4A42
Fault in CAN communication with control unit CGW4D43
Fault in CAN communication with control unit N80 (Steering column module)4932
Fault or defect in CAN communication6104
Fault or defect in CAN communication7224
[DTR: CAN communication with Transmission control unit is faulty] or [DTR: Fault in CAN Communication with control unit N80 (Steering column module)]5A02
[Check coding's in control module CGW (National Version)] or [Check component Y10 (SPS solenoid valve)]
Thanks for reading, hopefully there's enough info in there to get started.
Last edited by Innova801; 09-14-2021 at 11:31 AM. Reason: Additional details/clarity
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Ajaysen (01-14-2023),
Manvinpac06 (10-26-2022)
#10
Junior Member
Update:
Unplugged the CGW and found a small amount of corrosion on both the male/female plugs/pins. 2 plugs for the CGW going different directions, one seems to be coming from front SAM and likely one coming from rear SAM. Under the dash was completely clean and dry.
Took the CGW out of car to workbench, cracked it open and found some corrosion on the pins to board contacts too.
Very interesting observation... it looks like the plug pins are a compression fit onto the CGW mainboard and not soldered.. why, it's no major factory production effort, just solder/flux paste and an easy bake oven....?
Hefty amount of contact cleaner was sprayed and wiped with toothpicks/cotton swabs on board & pins. I gently scratched the paint off around one side of the pin holes on the back of the main board and applied a small dot of solder to each of the pins to make them and the board one. I snapped CGW back together and smeared a dab of dielectric grease on both the wires coming into the plugs from the SAMs and the male pin connectors of the plugs before reinstalling. Maybe this will help stop any future instances of corrosion traveling down the wires or however it got here to begin with.
Observations: This looks like a factory/operations shortcut that has likely cost others who've had CGW's corrode/burn out. Why no solder on the pins to the CGW board connection, baffles me.Maybe it was just some one's first day and only mine was like this, who knows..
Further digging shows I am not the only one this has happened to, maybe common to 2006's:
www.slkworld.com
I took the unconnected batteries opportunity to check the antenna wire coming in right above the rear SAM and sure enough, corroded and green as could be. Contact cleaner spray and brass wire brush and it looks better than it ever did. Applied some more dielectric grease to the insides as well as the outside of the tiny connector and hope for the best. Seems like the usual suspect of the antenna fix is in my future as well. Yay..
Batteries hooked back up, key in/EIS good, started right up with no display errors other than the usual SOS. Radio sounds good, so I have to hope that the cleanout had to count for something.
I am now thinking it might be worth the effort to unplug the batteries again and dismantle the rear SAM and fully disassemble and check for corrosion since the tell tale of the antenna wire shows the signs of traveling corrosion. Can’t wait to see what the rear SAM has to offer...
And yes, I checked all fuses (rear SAM, dash & front SAM) no blown fuses, no obvious signs of corrosion.
Will test drive again later to see if it goes nuts again.
White grease at edge of connector, big effort guys but doesn't stop corrosion
Power, signal, CAN pins to CGW board
Unplugged the CGW and found a small amount of corrosion on both the male/female plugs/pins. 2 plugs for the CGW going different directions, one seems to be coming from front SAM and likely one coming from rear SAM. Under the dash was completely clean and dry.
Took the CGW out of car to workbench, cracked it open and found some corrosion on the pins to board contacts too.
Very interesting observation... it looks like the plug pins are a compression fit onto the CGW mainboard and not soldered.. why, it's no major factory production effort, just solder/flux paste and an easy bake oven....?
Hefty amount of contact cleaner was sprayed and wiped with toothpicks/cotton swabs on board & pins. I gently scratched the paint off around one side of the pin holes on the back of the main board and applied a small dot of solder to each of the pins to make them and the board one. I snapped CGW back together and smeared a dab of dielectric grease on both the wires coming into the plugs from the SAMs and the male pin connectors of the plugs before reinstalling. Maybe this will help stop any future instances of corrosion traveling down the wires or however it got here to begin with.
Observations: This looks like a factory/operations shortcut that has likely cost others who've had CGW's corrode/burn out. Why no solder on the pins to the CGW board connection, baffles me.
Further digging shows I am not the only one this has happened to, maybe common to 2006's:
Central Gateway Control Module
Hi folks! Car works perfectly. Every so often I scan it to see how it's doing. I often/always see; P9055 - Front SAM - N93 Central Gateway Control Module is not sending any data P9041 - Rear SAM - N93 Central Gateway Control Module is not sending any data Because both SAM's are reporting the...www.slkworld.com
I took the unconnected batteries opportunity to check the antenna wire coming in right above the rear SAM and sure enough, corroded and green as could be. Contact cleaner spray and brass wire brush and it looks better than it ever did. Applied some more dielectric grease to the insides as well as the outside of the tiny connector and hope for the best. Seems like the usual suspect of the antenna fix is in my future as well. Yay..
Batteries hooked back up, key in/EIS good, started right up with no display errors other than the usual SOS. Radio sounds good, so I have to hope that the cleanout had to count for something.
I am now thinking it might be worth the effort to unplug the batteries again and dismantle the rear SAM and fully disassemble and check for corrosion since the tell tale of the antenna wire shows the signs of traveling corrosion. Can’t wait to see what the rear SAM has to offer...
And yes, I checked all fuses (rear SAM, dash & front SAM) no blown fuses, no obvious signs of corrosion.
Will test drive again later to see if it goes nuts again.
White grease at edge of connector, big effort guys but doesn't stop corrosion
Power, signal, CAN pins to CGW board
Last edited by Innova801; 09-17-2021 at 02:20 PM. Reason: Additional research shows 2006 SLK's also had this same issue
#11
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2008 E350 (W211 @170K), 2012 ML350 (W166 @119K), 2014 E350 Sport (W212 @96K), 2015 ML350 (W166 @92K)
Though for the W212, you may want to read @CaliBenzDriver ,
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...s-modules.html
and @S-Prihadi 's work on similar issues.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ving-them.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...s-modules.html
and @S-Prihadi 's work on similar issues.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ving-them.html
Last edited by juanmor40; 10-26-2022 at 11:45 AM.
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Innova801 (09-17-2021)
#12
Junior Member
Oh wow,.. this is certainly not a fluke... So I haven't even hit the bottom of that thread yet, but see an investment in quality solder station in my future.. All this to be "green" and save a buck..?
This has me wondering if so many of the W211/212 module issues have been because of press-fit pins and not proper solder.. I just don't even any have kind words, for this 'brilliance'...
This has me wondering if so many of the W211/212 module issues have been because of press-fit pins and not proper solder.. I just don't even any have kind words, for this 'brilliance'...
#13
having the same problem i have 06 E350 Mercedes replace ECM and TCM first start up it does not start or if it does the ESP & ABS come on and can not shift hook up scanner found codes 1373,1405 butt the car drive until i turn it off and restart the problem back
#14
I am having the same warnings, including SRS, Battery, Traction control is off, signals blink after 15 seconds for a few times and stop, left lights not working, Right head light blinking, Emergency / caution blinkers not working, power steering failed, radio and AC stopped working. instrument cluster is full of warnings - break, srs, tracktion control failure then comes the batter light - battery not charging warning etc.
I am getting similar messages from ODB II that CAN Bus errors, communication errors etc. Will see if I can remove the Central Gateway and check it out.
Can you tell me how you removed the CGW, and also I did not get what corrosion at the antenna wire (where is the location)
I am getting similar messages from ODB II that CAN Bus errors, communication errors etc. Will see if I can remove the Central Gateway and check it out.
Can you tell me how you removed the CGW, and also I did not get what corrosion at the antenna wire (where is the location)
#15
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Provide VIN.
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Innova801 (01-15-2023)
#16
Junior Member
Update to this issue:
It's been 1.5 years since this issue occurred and no repeat of this issue. Maybe soldering the pins was the cure. I have driven the car across the country since then plus all of the weekend-er trips and no repeat of the issue.
I did venture into the rear SAM, removed it, disassembled it and fond no trace of corrosion there. The antenna wires there by the rear SAM were as green and crusty as could be, so they were cleaned as best as I could and dielectric grease was applied.
As far as modules, this is probably the easiest one to get to and inspect on this car. If you're having some wierdo issues all at once like those I described above, it might be worth a look. Conveniently located just behind the panel cover on the left/drivers under dashboard.
It's been 1.5 years since this issue occurred and no repeat of this issue. Maybe soldering the pins was the cure. I have driven the car across the country since then plus all of the weekend-er trips and no repeat of the issue.
I did venture into the rear SAM, removed it, disassembled it and fond no trace of corrosion there. The antenna wires there by the rear SAM were as green and crusty as could be, so they were cleaned as best as I could and dielectric grease was applied.
As far as modules, this is probably the easiest one to get to and inspect on this car. If you're having some wierdo issues all at once like those I described above, it might be worth a look. Conveniently located just behind the panel cover on the left/drivers under dashboard.
#18
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See attachment.