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Looking for instructions replace M272 Balance Shaft on '06 E350
http://www.decodethis.com/VIN-Decode...UF56J16A836639
Local dealer diagnosed it with Balance Shaft problem. I can't seem to find detailed instructions including tools required, torque/Lbs to use when tightening certain bolts.
This is an admittedly ambitious DIY project for me to do on weekends. I did not want to pay the dealer $3600 for labor. The lowest non-dealer labor quote was $2700. I don't like going to the gym so this will be my workout for a few weekends :-). I don't need to do it in a hurry either as I have another car to use.
I already purchased the MB Balance Shaft Kit and all necessary parts from an out-of-town MB dealer (1/3 the price of the local dealer), as per detailed quote from the local MB dealer in Atlanta where I am. Also just ordered an engine hoist, leveler and stand on Amazon which should be arriving in the next new days.
I found some limited docs online on the balance shaft failure with some pictures but nothing comprehensive with step-by-step instructions to take out the engine, take it apart just enough to replace the balance shaft and put it back together again.
Since this will take me while, a 1 day or 1 month subscription to the MB tech site my not be long enough and I'm trying not to pay the full year subscription if I can help it.
Any tips or links to such detailed instructions would be greatly appreciated, perhaps starting with what bolts I need to hoist the engine out of its bay and any [other] bolts to mount it on the stand.
Thank you
Last edited by galileo55; Aug 30, 2013 at 01:32 PM.
Purchase the subscription for your car. Don't cheap out on this part. Buy the subscription, look over the process and the tools required, then you can make an educated decision about tackling this job.
If you're asking which bolts to hoist the engine out and stand bolts to mount it to a stand, I'm going out on a limb and suggest paying the independent. Not trying to be rude. But this is not your common DIY job. I've done a couple in my day and it is not a fun job.
Day 24 Hours $19.00 1 - Day Access
Week 7 Days $100.00 1 - Week Access
Month 31 Days $289.00 1 - Month Access
Year 365 Days $3098.00 1 - Year Access
I'll check out alldatadiy. It's a no-brainer at $27 for a year. Thanks.
Part Number 240 589 00 61 00
Part Name HOLDER, LIFT
Online Price $2,521.60
Any less expensive alternatives or tips on how to get it out.
BTW, I already bought a Cherry Picker Hoist, Engine Balancer and Stand.
Thank you
This wire/harness/electrical connector has two plugs: One goes into the thermostat. Where does the other one go?
Thank you
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...placement.html
If you do want to do it yourself, be ready to pay for mistakes you may make on the way. I had to pay for a new steering rack as I sheared off the electric connector on it ($305 for used part, $450 for a mechanic to put it in). I also disassembled the timing wheels which I should have never done. ($1000 for parts and many more hours for work/rework). A guy had quoted me $2700 to do the job. I should have given it to him.
However, I now have the satisfaction of having done it just right myself and the car is running great. Here's another thread as I was doing it. https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...placement.html
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This was NOT AN EASY JOB. I went to the MB Dealer to get some advice on a particular issue while doing the job. I asked a mechanic a question. He chuckled and said: "You're replacing the balance shaft? At Home? I'm impressed but I don't know the answer to your [Variable Valve Timing Exhaust Adjuster correct settings] question. The guy who does that job is out today. Come back tomorrow and you can ask him". Apparently, "1" mechanic is allowed to do the balance shaft job at the biggest MB dealership in ATL. Make sure your non-dealer mechanic knows what they're doing or else, you could have some additional, possibly major, damage if they, for example, get timing chain, intake and exhaust adjusters alignment off by one or more teeth.
This is the main part. It's a Kit that comes in a big box with multiple parts inside of it, including the actual balance shaft:
OEM Catalog - Mercedes-Benz 272-030-06-13 1 $330.20 $330.20 RS GUIDE WHE
Here are the same parts in the picture, for friendly cut and paste, so you don't have to type them in one by one.
Good luck.
Part Number Qty 272-238-01-80 1 272-238-02-80 1 272-238-00-80 1 272-010-06-31 1 000000-001478 4 012-997-73-45 1 026-997-67-45 2 026-997-68-45 2 000-998-56-90 1 015-997-61-45 1 007-990-51-04 8 007-990-88-04 6 272-030-06-13 1 000000-003495 1 112-018-00-80 1 007603-016105 2 000-466-18-80 1 019-997-58-45 4 000-998-65-90 2
Last edited by galileo55; Feb 28, 2015 at 09:05 PM. Reason: Add part numbers that can be copied and pasted
Last edited by rgowda; Mar 2, 2015 at 12:34 PM.
Thanks for the parts list. I am pulling info together to get started on my balance shaft. I see that you didn't replace the timing chain. I'd like to avoid replacing mine if it makes sense. Were you able to get the sprocket/shaft out while the original chain was in place? Is there a trick to doing it, or is there enough slack once the chain tensioner is out? It might seem like false economy to not replace it, but I like the idea of the original chain with no master link in it. I suspect that the original chain is bullet proof and the process of replacing it might cause more problems than it resolves. Obviously, I could be completely wrong about this, so I am open to comments. I'm thinking about skipping the oil pump too. Did you replace your oil pump?
Also, did you ever sign up for StarTec or Alldata? If so, was it worth it?
Thanks in advance for any additional guidance.
I did sign up for Alldata but it's too much work to print, one page at a time. They won't give you a full .pdf, even after paying.
I did not replace my timing chain or oil pump and it was fine. I sold the car since before my wife kills me :-)
Thanks for the parts list. I am pulling info together to get started on my balance shaft. I see that you didn't replace the timing chain. I'd like to avoid replacing mine if it makes sense. Were you able to get the sprocket/shaft out while the original chain was in place? Is there a trick to doing it, or is there enough slack once the chain tensioner is out? It might seem like false economy to not replace it, but I like the idea of the original chain with no master link in it. I suspect that the original chain is bullet proof and the process of replacing it might cause more problems than it resolves. Obviously, I could be completely wrong about this, so I am open to comments. I'm thinking about skipping the oil pump too. Did you replace your oil pump?
Also, did you ever sign up for StarTec or Alldata? If so, was it worth it?
Thanks in advance for any additional guidance.
Agreed!!!!!! first production year of models or engine are typically always the junk of the bunch. Never buy first year of anything. feel sorry for the c/cla/gla/gle owners. if they aren't leasing they are in for a rude awaking.
I am currently loading the WIS disks from eBay. Will see how it goes.








