E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Oil in Coolant Reservoir. Replace Oil Cooler?

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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 09:22 PM
  #1  
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2006 E350 4matic
Oil in Coolant Reservoir. Replace Oil Cooler?

MB dealer found oil (assuming engine oil) in coolant reservoir on my 2006 E350 4matic. They have suggested replacing the oil cooler and seals. The cost is $700.

Does anyone have experienced the same problem? Is replacing the oil cooler and seals the solution? Any DIY help

Last edited by topracer; Jan 15, 2014 at 09:53 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 09:10 AM
  #2  
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My guess, transmission, nothing that can't be fixed without changing radiator and transmission.
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 09:57 AM
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Insufficient evidence

+1 on Plutoe's thoughts. The dealer appears to be guessing in re. the source. More facts and diagnostics are needed before beginning repairs.

relinuca
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 09:59 AM
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I removed the similar link. However, I am confused more. On the repair quote by the Mercedes dealer, it said "COOLANT RESERVOIR HAS OIL IN IT - REPLACE OIL COOLER, AND SEALS". They specifically said it is the Engine Oil Cooler, not Transmission Oil Cooler.
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 10:08 AM
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So ask them how oil from the oil cooler gets into the coolant reservoir?


Then ask them how they ruled out either a blown head gasket and/or a crack in the block or head.
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 02:11 PM
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More confusion. I have spoken to a MB technician who said coolant does run into engine oil cooler, and there are seals to separate oil and coolant. If the seals or cooler go bad, oil can mix with coolant.

If the technician is right, it supports what the dealer found and recommended.

Attached are the pictures of the oil cooler on my car and signs of leak.
Attached Thumbnails Oil in Coolant Reservoir.  Replace Oil Cooler?-2014-01-15-07.36.10.jpg   Oil in Coolant Reservoir.  Replace Oil Cooler?-img_20140115_073645.jpg  
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by topracer
More confusion. I have spoken to a MB technician who said coolant does run into engine oil cooler, and there are seals to separate oil and coolant. If the seals or cooler go bad, oil can mix with coolant.
He is right.
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 11:39 PM
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Thanks for all the helps. Looks like the oil cooler p# "A 272 180 04 10" is what I need. Is "A 272 180 05 10" the same as "A 272 180 04 10"? Any DIY instructions?

http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Merced...721800510.html
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 08:42 PM
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I'm having this exact problem with oil leak around oil cooler, can I just replace gasket?
Thanks
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 09:14 PM
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Any diy for this repair? All I found was for e55's
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 09:29 PM
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This is quite a common problem with the 272/273 motors. Replacing the seal alone will not fix the entire problem you have at this point. You will need to flush the cooling system to remove the oil from it. This is a time consuming process, but is fairly simple. The expansion tank should also be replaced as well. Tide detergent works quite well to remove the oil deposits.
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 10:54 PM
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Ok so I just replaced the gasket and those thoughts just ran through my mind oil change and flush. Thanks for your reply. Now how do I do the flush & when you say. Expansion tank must be replaced you mean coolant in their correct? I don't wanna sound far out there lol but that's where I added the coolant?
A diy on the flush and expansion tank will help a lot.
I'm gonna goto the dealer tomorrow to get coolant.
Originally Posted by 211.070
This is quite a common problem with the 272/273 motors. Replacing the seal alone will not fix the entire problem you have at this point. You will need to flush the cooling system to remove the oil from it. This is a time consuming process, but is fairly simple. The expansion tank should also be replaced as well. Tide detergent works quite well to remove the oil deposits.
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 12:53 PM
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Is it too cold to do the flush and should I have the dealer do it?
Originally Posted by 211.070
This is quite a common problem with the 272/273 motors. Replacing the seal alone will not fix the entire problem you have at this point. You will need to flush the cooling system to remove the oil from it. This is a time consuming process, but is fairly simple. The expansion tank should also be replaced as well. Tide detergent works quite well to remove the oil deposits.
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 07:58 PM
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You can do the flush yourself. The longer that there is oil in the rubber hoses. The more damage that will be done to them.

As I stated it is a very easy process, but takes time to do a thorough cleaning.

1) Drain the coolant
2) Mix one scoop of Tide detergent in to solution in a gallon of hot water
3) Fill the cooling system with the Tide mixture, and water.
4) Run the engine for 30-45 minutes
5) Drain the Tide mixture
6) Fill the cooling system with water
7) Run the engine for 20 minutes
8) Drain the water
9) Repeat steps 7/8 until water is clear
10) Severe cases will require the entire process to be repeated
11) Replace the expansion tank
12) Fill with 50/50 mixture of coolant, and water
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 09:56 PM
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I set up an appointment for tomorrow at the dealer for a flush. Cost is $144.99. It's in the single digits over here in va with a wind chill in the negative. I didn't think it be wise to run water in these temp's. Do you think they will flush the system good enough? And what is the reason to replace the expansion tank and cost?
Originally Posted by 211.070
You can do the flush yourself. The longer that there is oil in the rubber hoses. The more damage that will be done to them.

As I stated it is a very easy process, but takes time to do a thorough cleaning.

1) Drain the coolant
2) Mix one scoop of Tide detergent in to solution in a gallon of hot water
3) Fill the cooling system with the Tide mixture, and water.
4) Run the engine for 30-45 minutes
5) Drain the Tide mixture
6) Fill the cooling system with water
7) Run the engine for 20 minutes
8) Drain the water
9) Repeat steps 7/8 until water is clear
10) Severe cases will require the entire process to be repeated
11) Replace the expansion tank
12) Fill with 50/50 mixture of coolant, and water
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 10:02 PM
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The flush that they are doing at that price will not rid the system of all of the oil. The coolant expansion tank has many baffles in it. There is not a heavy enough flow rate to clean all of the oil deposits out of it. That is why you should replace the reservoir. You could also remove it, and use brake cleaner to clean it out if you wanted to.
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 10:08 PM
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There is hardly any sign of oil in the coolant other then a kinda sheen in the expansion tank. I will tell them why I'm flushing and ask them what kinda flush there doing
Originally Posted by 211.070
The flush that they are doing at that price will not rid the system of all of the oil. The coolant expansion tank has many baffles in it. There is not a heavy enough flow rate to clean all of the oil deposits out of it. That is why you should replace the reservoir. You could also remove it, and use brake cleaner to clean it out if you wanted to.
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 08:05 AM
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Ok so I'm at the dealer now and the SA just told me the tech suggested pulling the expansion tank and cleaning it out because just like you stated it wouldn't get all that oil out.
Total 230.00 and there using some BG product to flush it. Hey man you where def. on the money, not that I doubted you but it's way to cold for me to do it outside. Thanks so much for your advice and expertise!!
Oil change last night was a killer, could only get 3 quarts in at a time before having to get inside to warm my hands up.
Originally Posted by 211.070
The flush that they are doing at that price will not rid the system of all of the oil. The coolant expansion tank has many baffles in it. There is not a heavy enough flow rate to clean all of the oil deposits out of it. That is why you should replace the reservoir. You could also remove it, and use brake cleaner to clean it out if you wanted to.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 03:03 AM
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I am sorry for reviving the thread, but I've got same issue with oil leaking through the gasket.

Question: is it necessary to replace the cooler as well? There is no oil that I can see in the expansion tank that I can see.

Question: Is the oil cooler known for going bad?
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 08:09 AM
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Very common problem. If you go to a dealer it's cheaper to replace the entire oil filter housing then just re-sealing. Which makes sense because more labor is involved if you re-seal vs just replacing. This is a very common problem with 272/273 motors. The early you fix it the better.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by cmriv
Very common problem. If you go to a dealer it's cheaper to replace the entire oil filter housing then just re-sealing. Which makes sense because more labor is involved if you re-seal vs just replacing. This is a very common problem with 272/273 motors. The early you fix it the better.
Thanks for the reply. I checked online it appears they've done away with a separate oil cooler and it's now coming as part of the oil filter/cooler housing (part no. 2721800510). Is it correct?

Last edited by StereoTomy; Aug 21, 2015 at 09:15 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 10:17 AM
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Dawn dishwashing detergent is a better surfactant for removing oil than Tide.
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Old Apr 4, 2019 | 01:33 PM
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oil in coolant

Hello folks
Been trying to find out why I have oil in my coolant, read all comments in all and any MBZ forums. Most everyone suggested, head bolts, head gasket, radiator, ...etc. Well, let me tell you folks of my story. I got a 2010 CL 63 oil mixing in the coolant tank, long story short, I was too lazy to put coolant so I used water for about 3 months. the water caused corrosion in my heat exchanger, (located under right fender), had it tested by a radiator shop the 1st time and it look good, scratching my head, so I asked the rad. shop to wash out the old oil in the cooler and retest, sour thing. once we connected air to it and submerged the cooler in water bubbbbbles. don't let anyone talk you into head job, or head bolts, test your cooler. eazy to pull out, test and its only $250. end of my story. thank you all.
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