ShinyHypnotoad

RESERVED FOR DETAILED HOW-TO

Hey guys,

Wanting to do some stuff with the rear lights and want to know if someone has already done this before. I know Lemonsqueezy has done something similar and I've been talking to him about this but wanted to get more input.

Firstly, don't ask me why MB decided to solder these bulbs on to the board. It is completely back-asswards and it makes things difficult for us. In any event similar to W204 boards on aznoptics' website.

This is what our boards look like (i believe)





This is what is on Aznoptics' website

The Thomas J

Sooooo i'm assuming this isn't just plug & play.

ShinyHypnotoad

Far from it. The bulbs are soldered into the "sockets" as you can see in the second picture.

Will have to desolder the lights and then resolder the LED's in unless I find a way to convert the sockets to bulb holders which would then convert the board to a essentially plug n'play board. Wishful thinking maybe...

ShinyHypnotoad

Assuming no one else other than Lemonsqueezy has done this ?

LemonSqueezy

This might help, he did it to his turn signals whereas I did it to my reverse lights. Similar setup. Definitely ask him about it and report back

MasterMoparSB

Interested

The Thomas J

mE 2

LemonSqueezy

For some $$$ I can get my friend to make it happen. The bulb used for the reverse is a special high grade bulb that is quite expensive compared to your usual LED. So the whole thing does not come cheap.. Let me know if interested.

N_Jay

Did MB really solder in lightbulbs?

So, when a bulb burns out you have to replace the whole part (By MB standards)?

65aircooled

Interested

ShinyHypnotoad

Yes, they did. And most likely that is the standard procedure. If the bulb burns out you have to replace the whole thing, which to me is MORONIC.

Probably some engineer trying something "new"...Jesus. I digress.



I ordered the 4 LED units to use, should get here next week and I also ordered the circuit boards to play with so I don't ruin the ones that are already in the car.

Stay tuned!

LemonSqueezy

The bulbs on the circuit boards were designed to last a significantly longer time than a conventional bulb. If it blows out, for the average person it's just more worth it to change the entire circuit. It's way too much trouble to cut the old bulb and solder a new one in. It also really stupid when you have to say a brake light bulb change is $40-50 and not $1.50.

@ShinyHypnotoad Buy a couple 25w external resistors, they might come in handy, sometimes some of the built in resistors might not be good enough. Also which bulbs do you plan on swapping out for LEDs?

N_Jay

Betting they found that most turn signal and back up bulbs never burn out and they have more socket failures than bulb failures.


(Hey, I can give them the benefit of the doubt, Can't I?)


I want to do this on my GL first, since it needs brighter back up lights.
If it goes well, might do the E.

LemonSqueezy

Yeah I guess that's possible. If anything the brake bulbs should go out first because they're used the most. If you look at the very first picture Shiny posted, you can see the top brake light bulb is very dark..almost as if the bulb itself is about to go out.. mine looked very similar to that too before i changed my boards.

Joseph Joshy

Hi All,

Since there are lot of ways to fix these, I am posting how I did my fix without finding a reliable solution the way i wanted. Anyway this is going to just create some though process for others who are actually looking for solutions.

So what i did:
1. Since the bulb is hardly soldered to the board, i removed by slowly breaking it (I could no desolder it, i think it was silver soldered)
2. Then i found a replacement bulb small enough to fit the hole and spec near the stock bulbs (12v 16w)
3. The next step was to fix this bulb on the board, and may be next time i don't have to desolder again
4. So i found this female pin socket for electronics "jumper cable)
5. I took out the connector from the case and slowly cramped the connector on the previous leads
6. Did for both lines and put back the connector
7. Now since my replacement bulb had these male pins, i just plugged it into the socket and done

Also the socket was a bit tight for the bulb, so i don't think it will come of easily

NewShockerGuy

^ The biggest thing to me with how you have that now is that the bulb is "floating" inside the plastic on the terminals, by the metal legs... Not only is this not preferred because nothing is "holding" the actual bulb, but you could very easily run the risk of a short/problem down the road if for whatever reason the legs start to fatigue.

-Nigel