JimPurdy

Has anyone used a Topsider oil extractor for an oil change on an E320?

I just performed my first oil change on my E320 at 2,000 miles and that was a real pain to remove the belly pan to get to the oil sump plug. I looked at the MB training site that showed which tube is the oil fill tube and that sure looks backwards. The longer tube to the rear is supposed to be the oil fill while the shorter tube in front of it is the transmission fill. If the Topsider extractor technique works well with the new dipstickless tube, I am ready to buy one.

I have talked with several of the mechanics at the dealer who acknowledge the FSS schedules but still change their oil at shorter intervals. The consensus seems to be at about 5,000 miles, half way inbetween the normal FSS time. They also recommended the first oil change at 2,000, the second at 5,000 and then the 5,000 mile interval. This new oil change interval is assuming that the oil is Mobile 1 or one of the approved full-synthetic oils.


Jim

marksatex

Interesting to see the mechanics are changing their own oil more often. Heck Think I will do it too.

nyca

http://www.mercedesshop.com/diy_oil_change2.htm

walmart sells Mobil One 0W40.

when this had come up in the past, the issue has always been identifiying the fill tube (since there is no dipstick in it), if you find it, post a picture.

JimPurdy

The description of the oil and transmission fill is in the under hood walkaround section of the W211 MBUSA learning site:
http://www.mbusalearning.com/w211ele...ound/index.htm
The description is: "20. Here is the engine oil filling tube and down to the right of that, the transmission filling tube."

I attempted to include a picture with this reply but the "Attach file: Maximum size: 1 bytes" doesn't allow the attachment.

Jim

patrick

Strange to see US-mechanics do not understand how the FSS works.

Consensus,...which consensus????

Following FSS AND using MB-RECOMMENDED OILS will not cause any trouble!

Randy B

Has anyone figured out how to save the MB Learning site videos???? I would not mind having it on my hard drive.

djantlive

The belly pan comes off with 4 bolts, no big deal. The 8 qt capacity does cause a problem for me bc my drain container holds only 6 qts. I have to switch pans mid way and usually end up spilling some oil on my painted floor.

The top side changer is used by many shops for ATF, engine oil. I personally don't have any experience with it but seems to work for many.

Nanky

Did they say why they believe this is necessary? Are they just old school or are there really benefits to changing oil more frequently than dictated by the FSS?

JimPurdy

The mechanics that I talked to referenced driving habits. They don't think that the FSS can tell how much acid. other combustion byproducts and contaminents are in the oil. The FSS seems to be mileage and time based rather than actually testing the oil. If your trips are short and don't fully warm up the engine, there will be condensation in the engine that won't be evaporated. If all of your trips are long, the FSS timing may actually be too conservative. I know that my wife doesn't drive the car long enough to warm it up fully for most of her trips and she is the primary driver of the E320 so the mechanics have recommended the intermediate oil change.

Our E320 actually has 3 belly pans. The first is under the front bumper, second under the front part of the engine, and the third under the oil sump. The issue with the third belly pan is there are 2 screws at the front and 4 at the back (one on each side of the exhaust pipes) and you almost have to jack up the car to reach the front screws since they are between the wheels. After the screws are removed, the pan can be slid back and down ( the front of the third pan is under the back lip of the second pan). Another minor issue is the clearance from the oil sump plug to the ground and the front wheel. It is difficult to use a torque wrench on the plug. I found that jacking up the driver's side of the car to replace the plug was quite helpful. The torque wrench is almost a necessity since the specs call for 25nm (18lb/ft) of torque for that plug. That is so small and you really don't want to over torque it and strip the aluminum sump.

Jim

patrick

As I expected: FSS not fully understood.

jim256

To Jim Purdy: Here's a full explanation of FSS Plus:

http://www.mbusalearning.com/w211ele.../fss/index.htm

and it does reference measurement of oil quality. I have read they use a piezo sensor to measure impurities within the oil. They also measure oil and coolant temp to determine how many short trips are occurring. Between Mobil 1, 8 1/2 quarts in the engine, and FSS, I have stuck with the recommendations. I'm also not likely to keep a car out of warranty.

JimPurdy

Thanks Jim for the link to the W211 e-learning. I had looked at this section and noted the reference to oil quality but this site didn't go into enough detail. The original FSS was supposed to be performing these quality tests but somehow didn't make it into production. I would like to read more about how the quality tests are performed and what other assumptions the engineers have programmed.

We are planning to keep this car well past the extended warranty period - if there aren't too many problems with it. We kept our C280 for 5 years but replaced it with the E320 for the increased rear legroom and comfort. We took a trip with our daughter and husband and traded the misery of the rear seat at regular intervals. After that trip, my wife agreed to replace the C280. The 5 year old C280 was one of the shorter durations for us. The C280 replaced a 10 year old Volvo 244 and I am still driving a 1990 Volvo 245 and don't see a replacement for it. With the cost of Euro Mobile 1 oil, filter, and oil sump plug crush ring at about $50, it seems like cheap insurance to extend the life of the engine.

There was an article in March/April 2003 "The Star" magazine from a mechanic in the Denver area. He had a customer who had brought his 380SEL in for service at 125k miles. This engine was one with a single-row timing chain. The mechanic recommended replacing the chain and sprockets with the factory recommended double-row timing chain and sprockets since they were usually worn enough to warrent replacement. When they removed the old chain, there was no measurable wear! The mechanic asked the owner about previous service and the answer was that he owned a heavy construction company and had his company mechanics change the oil & filter at 3k miles. I know that the older engines were using conventional oil and the newer full synthetic oils do not break down as quickly but thought it quite interesting to read about the advantages of regular service.

nyca

forget the jack, get yourself a good set of ramps if you want to tackle the job from below.

Randy B

Has anyone seen a measuring tool yet for the W211's ???? (AKA Dipstick)